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Boostr1

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During my Coronavirus quarantine I've been working on projects. Here's one I've been working on which is my GT to Cobra brake conversion. It's chugging along but I was just shocked to see the size difference of a 11" GT rotor to a 13" Cobra rotor. I have them loaded with HAWK HPS 5.0 pads and J&M stainless steel braided lines. All four corners got the same pads and stainless lines. I kept the back rotor and caliper stock.

u09TiW.jpg

I have the Bullit versions red with the running stang in silver, and 13" Brembo rotors. They are a great upgrade.
 

TheOdessa

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Nah it’s in a million pieces. I went overboard with selling off parts and tearing it down cause I thought I’d be ready to purchase everything and reassemble in a decent amount of time.

Between unforeseen circumstances and many major changes in life it hit the back burner. I was planning on getting it back together this year till covid hit. I gotta wait and see how this all plays out and how my business does over the next few months. If it isn’t one thing it’s another.


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Amen to that. Covid allowed me some free time for a week or two to finally tackle the many projects I've had laying around to get done. One thing projects require is money and time. Lately it's been the time that's an issue. So many hours in a day and I hate paying someone to do something I know I can.
 

TheOdessa

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I have the Bullit versions red with the running stang in silver, and 13" Brembo rotors. They are a great upgrade.
The Bullit versions are the same as the Cobra's, correct? Do you have a link or pictures to the Brembo rotors? I'm always curious because of the nightmares I've had in the past with rotors rusting.
 

07GtS197

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There were some differences between the 94-98 and 99/01 03-04 cobra calipers but they are miniscule. I also have a set of bullitt calipers. The seller said they came off a 98 cobra but were originally on a bullitt. I didn’t know that until I got them so I think thats pretty cool.

076d28c1b502b9b49c69d537533793ca.jpg



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Boostr1

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There were some differences between the 94-98 and 99/01 03-04 cobra calipers but they are miniscule. I also have a set of bullitt calipers. The seller said they came off a 98 cobra but were originally on a bullitt. I didn’t know that until I got them so I think thats pretty cool.

076d28c1b502b9b49c69d537533793ca.jpg



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Yeah, those are the factory 2001 Bullitt calipers. I like em.
 

Boostr1

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I actually upgraded my whole suspension to the Bullitt Tokico suspension kit. Came Tokico shocks, Ford Racing 1" lowering springs, and upgraded front and rear stabalizer bar. Came in a whole kit from Ford Racing got it at a good price from BuyFordRacing.com which doesn't seem to exist anymore.
 

TheOdessa

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There were some differences between the 94-98 and 99/01 03-04 cobra calipers but they are miniscule. I also have a set of bullitt calipers. The seller said they came off a 98 cobra but were originally on a bullitt. I didn’t know that until I got them so I think thats pretty cool.

076d28c1b502b9b49c69d537533793ca.jpg



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Interesting I appreciate it! Did you buy them recently or was this a while ago? I got a steal on mine from Rockauto versus going a route like LMR so I'm curious.
 

07GtS197

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Interesting I appreciate it! Did you buy them recently or was this a while ago? I got a steal on mine from Rockauto versus going a route like LMR so I'm curious.

I got them back in December for 125 bucks shipped off ebay. And they came with the brackets, pads (used but good) and banjo bolts. The only other thing I had to get were the rotors, which I got centrics from lmr. So I’m in it less than 300 bucks. I’m debating on whether to get stainless steel brake lines too.


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TheOdessa

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I got them back in December for 125 bucks shipped off ebay. And they came with the brackets, pads (used but good) and banjo bolts. The only other thing I had to get were the rotors, which I got centrics from lmr. So I’m in it less than 300 bucks. I’m debating on whether to get stainless steel brake lines too.


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Very nice! I did get J&M lines for mine. They were from LMR and labeled for the Cobra. They fit perfectly.

For around $100 they make such a huge difference it's nuts. The pedal just feels insanely more firm and this is coming from rubber lines I replaced between a year and 2 ago.

Pads were expensive and kicked my ass. Hawk HPS 5.0 pads aren't cheap. Rotors were...eh. The calipers themselves were the cheapest, after core return, and even came powdercoated red. A true powdercoat because my old calipers were painted red and brake fluid starting eating that off. Brake fluid got on these and it just wiped off with no issue. I don't have the nice horse on them though.
 

07GtS197

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Very nice! I did get J&M lines for mine. They were from LMR and labeled for the Cobra. They fit perfectly.

For around $100 they make such a huge difference it's nuts. The pedal just feels insanely more firm and this is coming from rubber lines I replaced between a year and 2 ago.

Pads were expensive and kicked my ass. Hawk HPS 5.0 pads aren't cheap. Rotors were...eh. The calipers themselves were the cheapest, after core return, and even came powdercoated red. A true powdercoat because my old calipers were painted red and brake fluid starting eating that off. Brake fluid got on these and it just wiped off with no issue. I don't have the nice horse on them though.

I think you talked me into it lol. Which j and m lines did you get? I see there are a few. And whats the difference between the gt and cobra brake lines?

Thanks the horse is nice haha. Look at the what did you do today thread, they weren’t perfect when I bought them but a little bit of red nail polish and they look a lot better.


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TheOdessa

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I think you talked me into it lol. Which j and m lines did you get? I see there are a few. And whats the difference between the gt and cobra brake lines?

Thanks the horse is nice haha. Look at the what did you do today thread, they weren’t perfect when I bought them but a little bit of red nail polish and they look a lot better.


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The fittings connecting to the caliper itself are different. The GT line will not fit the caliper for the cobra because the connection for the GT line is square and the cobra caliper connection has a slight cut out on it. This is the lines I got from LMR and they worked perfectly.

https://lmr.com/item/JM-22518/Mustang-Cobra-J-M-Front-Stainless-Steel-Teflon-Brake-Hoses?sc_src=email_1621597&sc_lid=133705958&sc_uid=qctMHg29b5&sc_llid=20146&utm_source=emarsys&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Order+|+Order+Shipped-2020-01-31+21:36:00&utm_content=&sc_eh=263aab602b9cc1c61

Here's a picture of them as well. I did have to buy banjo bolts as the GT's wouldn't fit. I got them at NAPA.

AiPWgd.jpg


What pads are you using? I made a thread about the nightmare I had with Hawk pads and whitehorse saved my ass on it.
 
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07GtS197

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The fittings connecting to the caliper itself are different. The GT line will not fit the caliper for the cobra because the connection for the GT line is square and the cobra caliper connection has a slight cut out on it. This is the lines I got from LMR and they worked perfectly.

https://lmr.com/item/JM-22518/Mustang-Cobra-J-M-Front-Stainless-Steel-Teflon-Brake-Hoses?sc_src=email_1621597&sc_lid=133705958&sc_uid=qctMHg29b5&sc_llid=20146&utm_source=emarsys&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Order+|+Order+Shipped-2020-01-31+21:36:00&utm_content=&sc_eh=263aab602b9cc1c61

Here's a picture of them as well. I did have to buy banjo bolts as the GT's wouldn't fit. I got them at NAPA.

AiPWgd.jpg


What pads are you using? I made a thread about the nightmare I had with Hawk pads and whitehorse saved my ass on it.

I noticed that after a little research, thanks for posting the link I think I’ll go ahead and get them now.

As far as pads I really don’t know. I figure I could try them and if they don’t fit the bill I could get a set of oem or better pads. I don’t race so I don’t need high performance pads.


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TheOdessa

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I noticed that after a little research, thanks for posting the link I think I’ll go ahead and get them now.

As far as pads I really don’t know. I figure I could try them and if they don’t fit the bill I could get a set of oem or better pads. I don’t race so I don’t need high performance pads.


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I'm not a big fan of used pads. It's almost like used tires to me. I'd rather have the peace of mind of going new on such a critical component. I had Wagner Thermoquiets and while they were quiet, they had a bit of fade when I needed them most IE slamming on the brakes because some jackass pulls infront of me. That's why I bit the bullet and dropped the coin on good pads this go around. The brake fade that almost made me rearend a car that pulled infront of me with my daughter in the back scared me enough to just redo it all with better parts. One thing I've learned working on cars. Buy the right part first. Whether that be a quality part. A reman from a well known reman company. A Ford OEM part. ect. Cry once versus crying twice later. No only do you end up buying the good part, but you also spend time undoing what you did just to redo it. Time and money wasted. Can you luck out? Sure, but I'm at an age and stage in life where I'd rather have a sure answer then try luck. I could go on and on about brands I got screwed out of over the years of various Ford vehicles I've owned.

If you need banjo bolts, here's the NAPA info. They had it stocked. It's also shorter because I read somewhere the stainless line fittings are not as thick as the OEM's. Don't hold me to this because I'm not 100% sure but if you run into the banjo bottoming out using stainless lines use these. No issue.

Brake Hose Banjo Bolt
Part #: UP 83166
 
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TheOdessa

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So, I hate brakes. I really do. I've had a headache the first go around and now this time. I bled the shit out of the brakes. I even got speed bleeders and went through almost a large bottle of fluid flushing and bleeding. The brakes feel spongy. I'm taking it to a shop to just get a full bleed done. Why not I guess. The car is 20 years old and never had a full flush done at a shop. It's only been bled by me from time to time.

When I bleed brakes just as a maintenance item I'm good. If I'm bleeding them after a fresh caliper install it kicks my ass. Last time I had to get a shop to bleed them for me.

I also have a dead spot in my steering now after the MM solid steering shaft install. There's a good 1/2" of play when the wheel is dead center. I have a feeling the grommet/bearing in the firewall is shot. It's old 20 year old rubber and didn't look all that good to begin with. Ended up getting a bearing/seal made for a 08 Mustang GT as recommended on another forum. Apparently not only is it an upgrade but it works in our cars. I know the bolts on the steering wheel and on the rack are good and tight with locktite. I also know the rack is good because the OEM shaft had no play and it's freshly replaced using an AC delco rack (that was a fun story in itself. I'll never buy a A1CarDone part again. Motorcraft or AC Delco remans only.)

I'll post an update as to what I find because this seems to be a common issue and you can't find the seal/bearing assembly specifically for our cars new anymore as they are discontinued.
 

07GtS197

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I'm not a big fan of used pads. It's almost like used tires to me. I'd rather have the peace of mind of going new on such a critical component. I had Wagner Thermoquiets and while they were quiet, they had a bit of fade when I needed them most IE slamming on the brakes because some jackass pulls infront of me. That's why I bit the bullet and dropped the coin on good pads this go around. The brake fade that almost made me rearend a car that pulled infront of me with my daughter in the back scared me enough to just redo it all with better parts. One thing I've learned working on cars. Buy the right part first. Whether that be a quality part. A reman from a well known reman company. A Ford OEM part. ect. Cry once versus crying twice later. No only do you end up buying the good part, but you also spend time undoing what you did just to redo it. Time and money wasted. Can you luck out? Sure, but I'm at an age and stage in life where I'd rather have a sure answer then try luck. I could go on and on about brands I got screwed out of over the years of various Ford vehicles I've owned.

If you need banjo bolts, here's the NAPA info. They had it stocked. It's also shorter because I read somewhere the stainless line fittings are not as thick as the OEM's. Don't hold me to this because I'm not 100% sure but if you run into the banjo bottoming out using stainless lines use these. No issue.

Brake Hose Banjo Bolt
Part #: UP 83166

I appreciate the info! I’m starting to understand the buying quality thing now lol. I’ll look at the different brake pads and make a decision when I actually get around to installing them. It might be a while...

As for the brakes, I’ve heard of the speed bleeders letting in air themselves. Also could just be air in the abs pump. If you have a gravel road nearby you could always make some emergency stops on it to trigger abs a few times and rebleed the lines.


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TheOdessa

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I read Stop Tech makes a good pad in their street performance line. I got way too deep in the "which pad to get" rabbit hole across so many different lines from different makes to OEM that I finally just got Hawk HPS 5.0 pads. Typically there is a reason certain brands have a good reputation.

And honestly at this point I'd rather just pay a shop to bleed the thing and flush it with a fancy machine for $100 lol
 

TheOdessa

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I had play in my steering wheel after installing a MM solid steering shaft. I had a feeling it was the firewall steering shaft grommet because when I took the stock steering shaft out a piece of the stock grommet came with it. There was 1/2" of play from side to side when the steering wheel was dead center. This mod fixed it and now it's precise, smooth, and the steering feels absolutely amazing and dead center. If I had to relate it to anything, it's like driving a go kart versus a boat. See below. I started this talk in Akurma's thread but expanded it here. One note: on the two bolts that hold the part in, do not fully tighten them until the steering shaft is bolted fully and installed on both the steering wheel side and rack side. The two bolts act as a clamp and once tightened do not allow the part to articulate. I started the bolts by hand to hold the part in place. Once I got the steering shaft fully seated and installed where I wanted it, I then tightened the bolts holding down this part.

This new part can be installed while the steering shaft is on the car. Take the bolt out from steering shaft to steering wheel connection. Retract the MM steering shaft down. Undo the two bolts for the old part. Slide off of steering shaft. Slide new part in and set in place. I used a bit of WD40 on the roller bearing to aid in this.

Below is the part I purchased online from a local Ford dealership. It was the best price I found online at $40 plus $5 shipped and got it within two days. It's made for a 2008 Mustang GT but of course you could punch in any of the model years of that gen and it'll come up.

3kDXxu.jpg

Ipp9Pz.jpg

Sdtcym.jpg


Old part on right New part on left.
5lQO32.jpg


Below you can see what came off when removing the stock steering shaft.
bW1Vw2.jpg


Here you can see the inside of the stock part where it's starting to break. The rollers inside were also locked up and wouldn't spin (the new parts the bearings inside easily spun by my fingers). The rubber was also EXTREMELY soft. The new part has firm feeling rubber.
ViGJx4.jpg


Here is what I absolutely love about the new part. Check the old part out from the side. It's flat (you'll see what I mean in a minute).
nuRPUG.jpg


This one is grooved on the side. It allows the inner part to articulate with the steering shaft so you can get it exactly how you want it. Talk about amazing. Made positioning the solid steering shaft extremely easy without damaging anything.
OHDVXI.jpg


New part installed under the driver side against the firewall.
X62zOY.jpg


New part installed from under the car (hard to see. Not the best picture taker while under the car.) The MM solid steering shaft also has amazing clearance with BBK long tubes.
uOUraJ.jpg


Word of advice: on the MM Solid steering shaft, MAKE SURE you torque it per instructions at 24 ft/lb on both the steering wheel side and rack side. I did 25ft/lb plus a tad more. I also applied blue loctite for good measure. On the MM Solid shaft on the rack side it uses an allen bit. I used the following set up to be able to ensure I could get a torque wrench on and tighten it to spec. 1/4" allen bit from a cheap set I used a while ago to assemble Ikea furniture and a 1/4" socket.

6CU3Gk.jpg

wxHy4N.jpg
 
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Akurma

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Definitely going to be picking this up for my car, the play in your steering sounds exactly like what mine is doing. Can't beat OEM, especially when it is an improved design!
 
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50HSN95

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I think I'll have to look into that as well, thanks for the info on the part! My car has a Flaming River manual rack, and I used the other available FR parts to eliminate the rag joint but it still has a bit of play in the wheel. That play is even more exaggerated by the manual steering I'm sure.

Good info!
 

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