TheOdessa Build List with Pics

DKblue98GT

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Thanks for the info on the steering shaft bearing. The solid shaft is one of the best mods I have done to my car. The MM solid rack bushings make a big difference too.
 

TheOdessa

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Thanks for the info on the steering shaft bearing. The solid shaft is one of the best mods I have done to my car. The MM solid rack bushings make a big difference too.

I have them sitting on my shelf to get done but just haven’t done it yet. I have poly bushings in there now from when I replaced the rack just over a year ago. Those in itself made a huge difference over rubber. Just haven’t got around to installing them yet.

Honestly forgot I had them til you just mentioned it. It’ll be one of those “one day” projects I’ll get done when I get more time. Right now I’m insanely happy with him it handles and steers.

Too much shit sitting on the shelf and not enough time it feels.


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TheOdessa

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No problem! Good luck! Such an easy part to install too. Never would have thought about it til I did a bunch of homework on it. Makes sense though with the age of our car and it being rubber which is constantly being utilized from turning the wheel.


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TheOdessa

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More of my car and I have a question. I was taking side shots of it (it's dirty. It's due for it's wash/claybar/wax) to send my brother pics of how the new calipers look. I've been eyeing SVE NVX 18" rims for a while because the 17's that are on it now just don't fill out the wheel well like I want them to. I don't know why I can't answer this question myself, but will going from 17's to 18's fill the gap more? I don't like the top tire/bottom fender gap. I can't go lower because of my long tubes. Will going with a bigger rim raise the car at all? Let me know.

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Boostr1

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Ya could go with a taller tire, no? The 18 probably will raise it, but minimally.
 

TheOdessa

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Thanks for the info on the steering shaft bearing. The solid shaft is one of the best mods I have done to my car. The MM solid rack bushings make a big difference too.

Did you do them at the same time or at different times? I have pretty new poly rack bushings for my refurb rack installed (all replaced just about a year ago with about 1K miles on it. Reman rack is an AC Delco. Installed stainless steel hard lines on it. At the same time inner/outter ball joints, lower ball joints and lower A arm with preinstalled rubber bushings were also installed. All MOOG parts). With just the steering shaft from MM and new firewall bushings installed it seriously feels like driving a go-kart. I can partly see why Ford didn't install one from the factory. Just a tiny movement from the steering wheel makes such a huge difference now. I like it because I'm into sporty driving but there's absolutely no give/slop now.

I have MM solid steering bushings in my garage but haven't done them. I could only imagine how much tighter the steering could get. Maybe because my polly bushings are still new and firm? If you did them at separate times, did you go rubber to solid? The poly bushings were insanely more firm then the stock rubber, but then again the stock rubber was 19 years old.
 

DKblue98GT

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I have had both for so long I can't remember the order. Most of the suspension was on a 98 GT before I got the Cobra. I had poly rack bushings first and noticed a difference after installing the solid ones.
 

TheOdessa

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I have had both for so long I can't remember the order. Most of the suspension was on a 98 GT before I got the Cobra. I had poly rack bushings first and noticed a difference after installing the solid ones.

Thank you I appreciate it! I’ll get it added once time allows again.


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TheOdessa

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I have been working on paint correcting the car in my free time. Free time went from abundant to a luxury lately as Florida's economy has started to open up. I have found that when working with paint, chemicals and equipment follow the same rules as parts do - you get what you pay for. I've also learned Chemical Guys suck. Their marketing is great, but for the price most of it isn't worth it. Some of their products I couldn't have got this done without, but the bulk of it was returned.

The car is 20 years old and has never been corrected. I've owned the car for 10 years, but the guy prior to me really didn't give a shit about the car to be frank. While he took care of it maintenance wise, it was sitting in a garage covered in laundry, random items, and had a pet cat running on it. The black paint reflected this. Compounding the fact that I live in Florida, didn't always have a garage, and it was DD'ed for some time, the paint was rough. I was always scared of messing with the paint beyond washing, clay baring, waxing but I got the nerve over quarantine to start. It's a long process, which is still on-going, due to trial-and-error, being cautious, and taking my time but it's paying off. It's still 20 year old paint with chips, but it looks 10x better so far. Chemicals and products used:

Meguairs DA G110V2
Hexlogic Yellow Pads
Hexlogic Orange Pads
Hexlogic White Pads
5" and 3.5" backing plates to accomodate pads

Mother's clay bar kit
Chemical guys heavy clay bar kit
Adam's strip car wash
Foam cannon with pressure washer
Chemical Guys V32 for heavy cutting
Meguiars Ultimate Compound
Meguars Ultimate Polish
Blackfire Sealant
Blackfire Blackice Wax

The paint is starting to look like glass where finished. The above list doesn't include the list of products I've returned (which are even longer) because they didn't work for me. The life savers here were hexlogic pads and chemical guy's heavy clay bar kit. I'd be stuck in the water without them.

I was torn between Wolfgang and Blackfire products as final products, but settled on Black Fire from what I read. This stuff is extremely expensive, but got a deal where it was 25% off then additional 15% with a coupon code. Otherwise it would have been over $100 for wax and sealant. As a non-detailing hobbiest, this is insane but the final product is worth it. I'll get a detailed post done, but if anyone is looking to do this, go for it.

Our paint is tough. I've messed up a ton and our paint is not soft. I thought black paint jobs were soft, but not on this car. This not only saved my ass, but also was a paint to find a compound and pad combo that would cut it the way I needed. It isn't fun, it isn't easy - but it's worth it.

At the end of the day, I'll still enjoy wrenching over anything detail wise though. I don't have the eye, or patience, to do it again. Next go around I'll probably have it done.
 

TheOdessa

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I've been busy as hell with work lately. Florida opened up and I've been absolutely slammed. I've been pretty active on the reddit subforum for New Edges helping a lot of guys there as well and getting ideas. I much enjoy reddit over facebook because there is absolutely no drama.

This paint correction has been taking entirely too long but my noob skills at this was the cause. At first I had a hell of a time finding something noob friendly. Once I nailed down all my products and a proper technique I've been knocking out panels as time, and my back, allow. Work and being a father come first.

Before - Car was washed with Adam's Strip Wash soap, Mother's Yellow clay bar then CG Heavy Clay bar and Adam's iron remover used. This got absolutely all the waxes and such on the car stripped to the actual finish. I didn't realize just how bad the paint was. I guess waxes and such over time being used hid a lot. Again, I was a noob and didn't really research proper paint care. Always was more interested in the mechanical side. This is the hood close up to show just how bad it is. Swirls, scratches, and heavy oxidation.

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After - This is purely just paint correcting. No glaze, sealant, or wax applied. There's some dusting from the compound still there which is why there is white specs but it's like a mirror now. There is still paint chips but that's either something I'll have to fill in or just live with. The bumper is obviously covered but I'll clean that all off. The fender is taped off on the driver side because it's new and doesn't need a correction but just a buff. Same with the bumper. I didn't touch it.

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Side of car. It wasn't as bad as the hood (and trunk which I haven't done) but it was still pretty bad with oxidation. I was exhausted and snapped this pic looking into the car. It's seriously like a mirror just like the hood.

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Forgive my legs. It's Florida and it's hot. Again, that's with no glaze, sealant or wax. I've got the hood, window pillars, and passenger side paint corrected. Still need to finish the rest of the car. More to come. Products I finally settled on and used:

Meguiar's G110V2 DA (already had it as it was gifted to me years ago for Christmas)
Adam's strip soap
Mother's clay bar kit
Chemical Guys Heavy clay bar kit
Meguiar's MF paint correcting kit - 5.5" off Amazon. Comes with compound, polish, x2 cutting pads and x2 finishing pads. For large areas
Meguiar's 3.5" backing plate - smaller areas
Meguiar's 3.5" MF cutting pads x2
Meguiar's 3.5" MF finishing pads x2
Mother's microfiber towels

I was having a HELL of a time getting foam pads to work with Meguiar's Ultimate compound and the Ultimate Compound dusted like CRAZY (see front bumper in pics above). The microfiber kit with Meguiar's microfiber cutting pads and D30016 correcting compound and D30016 finishing wax was an absolute DREAM to work with. No dusting. The compound will haze the paint, which is good, and once you go over it with the finishing wax it clears up and looks great. I spoke with Meguiar's to see if the finishing wax is the final step because I thought polish was needed, but they stated it's a polish with wax included. They indicated it's not a final layer even though it's labeled as wax. The kit cuts great (you saw how bad my hood was) and just absolutely loved using it.

I have waiting to go on:

Poorboy's World Black Hole Glaze - hoping to fill in some of the super deep deep scratches and make the black paint pop.
Blackfire Sealant - after all this hard work I wanted something more durable then just wax. Also to help with pop.
Blackfire BlackICE Montan hybrid wax - while the sealant and glaze in itself will create an amazing shine, this will hopefully add more depth. We will see.
 

TheOdessa

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Interior shots. Reddit guys were asking so wanted to post here.

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Mods:
Cipher Auto black cloth racing seats with black suede inserts and gray stitching. Also Ciper Auto manual seat brackets.
Pioneer double-din in-dash
Amazon dual USB ports to replace the cigarette lighter
USB extension flat mount mod next to cigarette lighter to play files on USB to indash
Radio bezel is new and needs to be paint matched
LMR FR500 steering wheel
Lloyd GT floor mats
Mach 1 cup holder bezels
Mach 1 shifter bezel
Chrome bezels for gauges
MGW short throw shifter
Random polished head light piece that replaced stock cracked plastic
Polished pedal covers
 

evilcw311

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First of all. How do you live in Florida bad stay that pail??? [emoji38] Jk

Paint looks a lot better. Should look great once you get it all done.

What do you do that has you so slammed down there right now?? I know a lots opening back up but didn’t know what all trades are really slammed.


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Akurma

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Wow that paint correct made a huge difference! might have to give it a try on my 99Gt
 

joe65

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i know i'm late to the party. doing some catch up here. But, i'm going to order up that steering shaft also that you guys have been talking about.My wheel moves about an inch now because of play and drives me nuts. I put one on a fox before which is bit more of a pita to get aligned correctly. Anyways, like the work on the car you've been doing!
 

TheOdessa

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First of all. How do you live in Florida bad stay that pail??? [emoji38] Jk

Paint looks a lot better. Should look great once you get it all done.

What do you do that has you so slammed down there right now?? I know a lots opening back up but didn’t know what all trades are really slammed.


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It's seriously insane the difference. This car is 20 years old and never had this done plus the previous owner didn't take the best care of the car. Throw in my younger days without a garage where the car sat outside plus it was my DD for a few years in Florida and the crap was caked on. Paint correction is an absolute pain in the ass.

In Florida it's either hot or really hot. Sure I go to the beach, but I have to burn first then I tan. Couple in the fact that corona has everything shut down - well I don't get out as much anymore.

I do account management for an industrial and back up power battery and charger company. Every warehouse needs forklifts and I supply battery and chargers for those forklifts along with service needed. On the back up power side, cell phone towers, grocery stores, hospitals, medical facilities all have back up power options because in Florida we have hurricanes and storms. Couple that with the fact that Florida doesn't produce anything, we ship it all in and store it, and my industry is seriously non-stop. Before Corona I was working lord knows how many hours. During the height of corona it slowed but steady. Now it's picking back up slowly again.
 

TheOdessa

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i know i'm late to the party. doing some catch up here. But, i'm going to order up that steering shaft also that you guys have been talking about.My wheel moves about an inch now because of play and drives me nuts. I put one on a fox before which is bit more of a pita to get aligned correctly. Anyways, like the work on the car you've been doing!
That's Joe! The MM solid steering shaft really is a good piece. Get a new firewall grommet and I'd do either poly or solid mounts for the steering rack. Remember any weak link will negate these mods such as bad inner or outter tie rod ends or a bad rack. Also ensure your alignment is solid.

When I had an inch of play in my steering wheel actually the bolt holding my steering shaft to the rack came loose somehow. All I did was tighten that back up and I was good to go. I used blue locktight to ensure it doesn't happen again. Aside from being a pain in the ass, it scared me because having no steering while driving sounds like it'd suck pretty bad.
 

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