Hey everyone, Im new to the site and new to the mustang world. Started of a chevy man then I set my ass in the seat of this 95 and fell in love, but anyways bought the car with appr. 67,xxx miles on her and the only problem Ive had is when I was driving home and the distributor started buzzing then died, I brought my mechanic with me the next day to replace. For one he didnt mark the dist. when pulled out, said he could do by ear. For two I told him that I had read about the spout connector, and how it worked. I didnt know where it was so he overlooked it. Car started but didnt drive well and several times he had me pull over for him to move the dist. with the spout connected. I checked everywhere to see what would happen to my vehicle in doing this and cant find anything. Its almost like no one has been dumb enough to do it. But later on I have found TDC and restabbed the dist. my self. The car runs horrible set at 10 btdc, constant pinging. And looking at the damper the only way I can make the pinging somewhat go away is by turning the dist. clockwise and setting it at 30 degrees if Im even reading the damper right. Im not unknoledgable when it comes to cars just damn distributors. I told the mechanic to kick rocks im going to go at myself. The items I replaced so far are, Ect sensor, Act sensor, Distributor, Cap, Rotor, Plugs, Wires, Pcv valve, Intake gaskets, mostly all vacuum lines, Coil, Air filter, and Im not pulling any codes not even any stored codes available. Only usually pings at higher rpm, and if yall get the chance I would love for you to explain how the marks on the damper works and what exactly happens when you turn the dist. with the spout in. I appreciate your time and sorry for the novel.
Timing Problems, somethings not right
- Thread starter xavier
- Start date
It's possible that the damper (HB) has spun making the readings useless. If on the engine side you can feel or see any rubber between the inner and outer rings the HB is shot. Failure at this age is common. You want to check the timing with the spout out as the PCM will be altering the timing with it plugged in. You read the timing at the straight edge. Here's a picture.
As for the codes, where are you looking for the diagnostic port? It's not under the dash. The DTC connector is between the firewall and the passenger side strut tower. The one under the dash is for the 3.8L V-6 OBDII connection. It's a shared harness between the two engines.
Musturd
Post Whore
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I bet ur balancer is messing up too
phantom09086
Member
SPOUT on the 95 GT is neer the passanger strut tower, its a little gray box (Kinda looks like a fuse). set the engines #1piston to TDC compression stroke. then check to see if the thet the distributor rotor is pointing to the #1 plug wire and all wires are in the correct fireing order.with the car running pull the SPOUT and set the timming mark to 10 BTDC (it helps if you paint the mark white), turn the car off and reconnect SPOUT. re start the car to make sure your timming stayed. Hope this helps.
I set it at TDC using the screwdriver method and the distributor was two teeth off of where it should of been, I restabbed the dist. making the rotor button point directly at the #1 plug on the cap. Hit the key and it fired up and Idled perfect, didnt have a timing light on me, drove it home and the following day put it 10 degrees. Pinging was unbearable. On the damper from what I can read looking straight down from front of the car I see a 10 degree marking then next there is a zero then following that is another 10 degree marking to the right of the zero and then increment of 10s up to like 40. I marked the line 10 to the right of the zero and then put the straight edge right on the mark I made with the spout plug pulled out using the light with the car at operating temp. constant pinging. Then I thought I would back it down to 8 degree which would be left of the line I made correct? Pinging got worse, so remembering where it was before I turned the dist. clockwise which showed up on the damper as being 30ish degrees which is to the right of the zero, pinging went away except for under hard throttle and Idles perfectly. Also I was curious if any of you heard about the line that is on the motor that can be lined up with the line on the dist. to set the timing at zero. Dont know if its true just heard it some where. I also heard that the computer advances or retards timing a certaing amout of degrees and maybe that got thrown off when he turned the dist. with the spout in. Could that of changed the advance. Also when looking at the damper with light with spout out it will stay where were its at. With the spout in under light at idle the white mark is dancing everywhich way. Sorry so long just trying to be thorough, Im really getting aggrivated with this. I did use the connector under the hood, pass. side near firewall. Appreciate your time
phantom09086
Member
you want it to be 10 BTDC I think the 10 on the right is ATDC anything before 0 would be BTDC, after you do this try resting the ECU buy taking the NEG off for 20 min. try this let us know. also when you did TDC with the screwdriver was the 0 lined up with the timming mark. I know when I was timming my stang I was turning it clockwise to get 10 BTDC.
CC'S95GT
Post Whore
With the spout IN, the computer is allowed to control timing and takes into account air temp, coolant temp, and acceleration, etc.Base timing is set with the spout OUT. Therefore the computer knows the starting point to adjust from.That's why with the spout out the timing mark doesn't bounce around. and with it in is nearly unreadable.Most of the 5.0 N/A guys have the timing at 12*-14* BTDC to free up some extra power. Sometimes you'll have to use the 89 or 91 octane to prevent pinging. I'm running 12* and can still get away with 87 octane.
rz5.0
Legend
Set it on the side were the numbers keep going up. The other side were it stops just at 10 is atdc. Make sure your using the straigt part of the pointer and not the circles or any other part of it. You could also pull your spout and turn it till it stops pinging.. I think your timing is off your too advance.
phantom09086
Member
+1 with rz5.0
I was looking at it for a short while today, and Phantom Im almost positive that to the left of the the zero is ATDC, if I was to set it there my Dist. would almost be turned all the way around. I was wondering if anyone happens to have a picture of a stock 94, or 95 to see exactly the way the dist. would set. I know I shouldnt of but today I was playing with it and retarded the timing with the spout in until it almost was cutting off. Then pulled the spout and put the dist. back where it was to begin with. The pinging is gone 100%, Im lost, the distributor is still reading 22 degrees with the spout out. But before I did this it was reading 30 degrees. But like I said before if I put it at 10 degrees its unbearable. Does the Dist. do anything other than timing. Maybe fire the injectors somethings off. Looked at the HB and no rubber shown. And the reciepts I got with the car showed it had been replaced maybe 3000 miles ago, My number one spark plug wire on the cap is pointing dead north toward the engine. I know for a fact I found TDC, with the rotor pointing right where it should be on compression, but its something else going on. What give the injectors the signal to fire? What really pisses me off is all this could of been avoided if the mechanic would of pulled out a damn sharpie, and marked it. But Im learning so Im getting something out it. Appreciate you giving me the lessons.
CC'S95GT
Post Whore
Yes. the PIP inside the dizzy also tells the computer when to fire the injectors too.go back to square one.-Remove neg. batt cable.-Set # 1 to TDC.-Check that the line on the HB is on 0*.-Turn engine to align timing marks to 10* btcd. (optional).-Stab dizzy with rotor pointing to #1.-Pull spout. and start motor.-Set timing to 10*-12* btdc.-reinstall spout and drive.
rz5.0
Legend
Left is atdc right is btdc. Atdc number stop at 10 btdc they go up pass that
phantom09086
Member
your are correct, sorry wasnt thinking straight.
Slykin
Well-Known Member
This is a very informative thread. OP, thanks for starting it, seriously, I've learned quite a bit from reading this.
Alright fellows, tomarrow im going to swing by advance and pick up another HB, the guy I bought from kept all the reciepts and theres a warranty on it so I dont even have to pay for the thing. Not a bad deal. After I get that Im going to start back over. Also going to replace oxygen sensors, dont think there bad but I just want the car running light it did when it left the factory before I start modifing. The car is running real strong, and no pinging, you can ask the honda I walked the dog on earlier. He will tell you. Im a tell you man, theres something about these cars that can make you fall in love, I dont know what it is but im having fun with it. When I get the HB on Im a update you and let you know from there. Also try to get some picks up. Appreciate everyone giving me a hand.
Slykin
Well-Known Member
So did you figure it all out then?
And I agree.. I don't know why I like these mustangs, they are so sloppy and comparatively slow... but I still love em.
And I agree.. I don't know why I like these mustangs, they are so sloppy and comparatively slow... but I still love em.
Hell anything is comparatively slow depending on what your comparing it too. I still think its a hell of platform to start off with, doesnt seem so hard to work on neither, I think off the top the first jump Im going to make is a set of 4.10s, after I get all of the main tune mess done, and you cant beat the vast array of aftermarket parts neither. Not to mention the skirts love it...
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