trickflow stage one

tuffenuff1222 · Feb 6, 2011

stock motor just blot ons i want to run the trickflow stage one what do i need to do? 95 gt

Rice_slayer · Feb 6, 2011

No point in putting just a cam in without doing heads/intake. Very pointless actually. Save up and do a complete HCI swap.

auto_x5.0 · Feb 6, 2011

Yeah grab a gt40 intake/head setup then you will notice a difference with that cam

tuffenuff1222 · Feb 6, 2011

the car engine is stock inside. stock intake with 70mm tb, 75 maf, cold air into the fender,adj fuel pressure reg, underdrives, shorty headers,x pipe pypes violators,bigger fuel pump, 24lb injectors, and screamon demon coil. i have the typhoon intake to put on but i wanna run stock heads i like the bottom end. i wanted to know what would i need to change inside to run the stage one? i wanna do valve springs and lifters but im making sure the pistons wont hit?

det_riot · Feb 7, 2011

to be completely honest. You should wait and pick up a set of heads and put them both on at once. You have the fuel mod's to back it up and the intake. If you decide not to upgrade heads. You will definitely need upgraded springs, pushrods, as well as rockers.

det_riot · Feb 7, 2011

O edit: while youv'e got the front off the engine, doing the timing chain, water pump, t-stat is also advised if they've never been replaced.

tuffenuff1222 · Feb 7, 2011

allright so if i run the stage ones and i worked my stock heads what rockers should i run and is it really nessasry to change the pushrods?

det_riot · Feb 7, 2011

If you're getting the cam new, it'll say what size rockers you should ujse. If not I'm sure its online somewhere. And in regards to the pushrods, yes you must upgrade the pushrods. Stock rods aren't strong enough for upgraded springs as welll as they could be the wrong length therefore throwing off the valvetrain geometry.

Rice_slayer · Feb 7, 2011

Why do you want to keep stock heads? They are absolute garbage! The bottom end has absolutely nothing to do with having a bigger cam or not, only thing is POV clearance. Swapping cams without doing heads is a waste of time/money/ and you get a crappy idle and fuel mileage with a very minimal power gain.

ivan12 · Feb 7, 2011

Rice_slayer said:
Why do you want to keep stock heads? They are absolute garbage! The bottom end has absolutely nothing to do with having a bigger cam or not, only thing is POV clearance. Swapping cams without doing heads is a waste of time/money/ and you get a crappy idle and fuel mileage with a very minimal power gain.

^^^This^^^

I bought my Mustang as a fixer upper from my cousin, he installed a stage 2 comp cam a couple of months before he sold it to me. Yes it had a lumpy aggressive idle but it didn't run any harder and the mileage dropped to around 12mph avg.

Win · Feb 7, 2011

det_riot said:
to be completely honest. You should wait and pick up a set of heads and put them both on at once. You have the fuel mod's to back it up and the intake. If you decide not to upgrade heads. You will definitely need upgraded springs, pushrods, as well as rockers.

There are a lot of people running stock pushrods with no problems at all.

With a TFS 1 you should be able to run a 1.6RR like i am going to do with the TFS 1.

To the OP check my Budget Build out. Simple strong selection of stock parts and it will be a very healthy runner.
http://sn95forums.com/index.php?topic=59863.0

det_riot · Feb 7, 2011

stock springs wont handle ANY type of aftermarket cam,so you need to upgrade or else you'll get valve float

the stock rockers will work,if you really want to use them,but upgrading to roller rockers is a better choice

when changing heads/cam,every combo is different,so to get the proper valve train geometry,you need to convert an old lifter to a solid lifter,get an adjustable pushrod length checker and properly measure the pushrod length need for that particular setup

you may get away with stock length,replacing the stocker with hardened pushrods is advisable,but you wont know till you check

improper valve train geometry can result in noisy valvetrain,loss of power and the car just running like crap in general

I wouldn't risk it but the choice is up to you.

ttocs · Feb 7, 2011

I am waiting to find a good deal on a stage one to go with the trickl flow heads I bought last year. In preperation for this I opened up the intake with a ported cobra intake, 75mm MAF and 72 mm tb. I have also done BBK shorty headers to a magnaflow catted x-pipe and also went ahead and upgraded the injectors just to be ready. I was told the stock pushrods will not work, and I have 1.6Rollers waiting for it as that is what is normally recomended.

As they said a cam with stock heads will be nothing but an afternoon wasted.

Win · Feb 7, 2011

ttocs said:
I am waiting to find a good deal on a stage one to go with the trickl flow heads I bought last year. In preperation for this I opened up the intake with a ported cobra intake, 75mm MAF and 72 mm tb. I have also done BBK shorty headers to a magnaflow catted x-pipe and also went ahead and upgraded the injectors just to be ready. I was told the stock pushrods will not work, and I have 1.6Rollers waiting for it as that is what is normally recomended.

As they said a cam with stock heads will be nothing but an afternoon wasted.

i was told the opposite by someone who ran the exact same combo i am going to be running. The stock pushrods from what i have been told and what i have seen work just fine. Good luck finding a TFS 1 used. I have been looking for 3 months every day.

ttocs · Feb 7, 2011

didn't say I was looking used, I think a cam is a little too precise of an item to get used. I actually did find one used for a good price but there are some parts I would rather buy new.

I was told that the pushrod length will almost assuredly change when you swap heads/cam and that you really need to measure and be sure to get the right length rods.

auto_x5.0 · Feb 7, 2011

I bought my tfs 1 cam used, worked out perfectly fine for me...paid $80 for it lol

LAFENATU · Feb 7, 2011

ALWAYS measure for pushrods.

Don't assume the stock will work..my 2031 and AFR's needed an extra .090" to make the valvetrain perfect. No one had them so I had to drive 1 1/2 hours to Manley and pick some up :BangHead:

det_riot · Feb 7, 2011

LAFENATU said:
ALWAYS measure for pushrods.

Don't assume the stock will work..my 2031 and AFR's needed an extra .090" to make the valvetrain perfect. No one had them so I had to drive 1 1/2 hours to Manley and pick some up :BangHead:

Thank you lol i put on twisted wedge heads and had to add almost .05" to my pushrod length

Win · Feb 7, 2011

i never said don't measure. my friend that is helping me put together everything has the exact same setup as me except he has p heads and he used his stock pushrods!

ttocs · Feb 7, 2011

auto_x5.0 said:
I bought my tfs 1 cam used, worked out perfectly fine for me...paid $80 for it lol

how long ago was it? I was lookin at one a while back but it just seemed like to good of a deal for a cam with the old "couple thousand miles on it". When I thought about how precise it is, how easy it is to damage and how important it is in the motor, it just seemed like I might save $100 now and only god could know what it would cost when something went wrong. I learned a rough lesson about buying used go-fast parts when my bottom end developed a knock on the dyno while trying tune those parts. There are alot of things that I would have no problem buying used, but it is just too hard to see if there is something slightly wrong with the cam, and that you can't fix. Heads can always have new valves put in or have it machined to correct any problems but not a cam.....

win the guy that was selling the cam I was looking at shows up at the bottom of this page. sold already though.

http://sn95forums.com/index.php?topic=52347.0