VIDEO ADDED!-Car won't idle right...can't figure it out..

[ElrodKTPQ_89]

Get a DVOM (multi-meter)

put the crank back to zero and turn the distributor until the black line is aligned with your rotor. rotate the distributor about 1/8" clockwise and lock the hold down bolt in place. put the cap back on and re-install your SPOUT.

start the car and let it idle. allow the car to warm up to operating temp.
unplug the coolant temp sensor on the black heater core hard tube (right behind the thermostat housing)
measure the resistance across the two leads in the connector on the sensor.


post the results

10-4, will do that after work tomorrow :thumbsup:

From what i read, now i may be wrong.... but if the car sat for so long, could there possibly be a bad intake gasket... have you tried spraying starter fluid around the intake...

You referring to how long it set up before I bought it (it's been completely rebuilt)? Or how long it's been sitting while this issue has been ongoing (since November)? But no I haven't done that, never heard of doing that lol. I did replace a vacuum line today from underneath the upper intake to the purge valve(?) which was in pretty bad shape, but I've yet to replace the rest of that vacuum line (from the valve to wherever it goes to). All my other vacuum lines are brand new. Not saying it's not a vacuum leak somewhere but I don't think it's due to a bad line.

 

[9838stang]

main reason on using the starter fluid and spraying it around the intake (while the car is running) is to see if the revs increase. if so then the problem would be a intake gasket weither its an uper or lower idk... but there you would know possibly if its an intake gasket/ vacuum leak.

 

[ElrodKTPQ_89]

main reason on using the starter fluid and spraying it around the intake (while the car is running) is to see if the revs increase. if so then the problem would be a intake gasket weither its an uper or lower idk... but there you would know possibly if its an intake gasket/ vacuum leak.

Ok I gotcha. I'll ask about that tomorrow while we're working on it again.

 

[ElrodKTPQ_89]

[MENTION=8201]Addermk2[/MENTION] just out of curiosity as this is probably completely unrelated to my problems I'm having....when you mentioned the coolant temp sensor it made me think of this. When I turn my key to on, the fan immediately comes on and does not go off. I think CC mentioned that it could be a bad CCRM but do you have any input as to what could be causing that?

 

[daves94vert]

when you stab your distributor, you need to make sure you're on the compression stroke.

 

[Addermk2]

when you stab your distributor, you need to make sure you're on the compression stroke.

The car runs, he's on the right stroke.

Sent from my CyanMobileX Evo 4G

 

[ElrodKTPQ_89]

Today my buddy came back over and brought his diagnostics tool to check out the car. I mostly just stood by and turned the key over when I needed to and stuff like that while he worked. The following is what he told me to put on here for you guys to ponder over:

1) He set the total timing with SPOUT connected to 32* 'just to be safe' he says
2) The diagnostics tool he brought (Snap-On) would not communicate with the computer after it was hooked up and information was entered into it. Yes, before anyone asks he is competent and knows how to use it.
3) After the car finally reached operating temperature, the coolant temp sensor showed 2.9 ohms resistance. That reading was from the two leads inside the connector on the sensor as you said above. (I'm assuming he had the meter on the right setting when he checked it)
4) It took a while to get the car to warm up due mostly to the electric fan running constantly.

He said he would talk to a guy he used to build engines for who works only on fuel injected Mustangs and see if he also has any insight to what may be going on. But more than likely when I'm off work Friday I'll spend the day loading it up and hauling it to a shop.

 

[toyman]

Today my buddy came back over and brought his diagnostics tool to check out the car. I mostly just stood by and turned the key over when I needed to and stuff like that while he worked. The following is what he told me to put on here for you guys to ponder over:

1) He set the total timing with SPOUT connected to 32* 'just to be safe' he says
2) The diagnostics tool he brought (Snap-On) would not communicate with the computer after it was hooked up and information was entered into it. Yes, before anyone asks he is competent and knows how to use it.
3) After the car finally reached operating temperature, the coolant temp sensor showed 2.9 ohms resistance. That reading was from the two leads inside the connector on the sensor as you said above. (I'm assuming he had the meter on the right setting when he checked it)
4) It took a while to get the car to warm up due mostly to the electric fan running constantly.

He said he would talk to a guy he used to build engines for who works only on fuel injected Mustangs and see if he also has any insight to what may be going on. But more than likely when I'm off work Friday I'll spend the day loading it up and hauling it to a shop.

Without reading all the posts and as there are two diagnostic ports, did he connect to the correct one? It's the one in the engine bay passenger side for the 94-95 GTs in case it hasn't come up earlier.

 

[ElrodKTPQ_89]

Without reading all the posts and as there are two diagnostic ports, did he connect to the correct one? It's the one in the engine bay passenger side for the 94-95 GTs in case it hasn't come up earlier.

Yes, he did use the correct one.

 

[PonyGlued]

If you want you could do your own self-test to see if there are codes, without the code reader its you just counting the sweeps on a multimeter or maybe too the service light blinks to obtain the codes...that 2.09R would be what to expect of it at approx 210F...would be interesting to see if there are any stored ECT codes like 61 or 117

 

[Addermk2]

1) He set the total timing with SPOUT connected to 32* 'just to be safe' he says.

You really don't know how to listen to you. set your timing to 10 degrees with the spout connector removed. Do not pass go do not collect $200. set your timing to 10 degrees as instructed and stop ****ing with it

Sent from my CyanMobileX Evo 4G

 

[ElrodKTPQ_89]

If you want you could do your own self-test to see if there are codes, without the code reader its you just counting the sweeps on a multimeter or maybe too the service light blinks to obtain the codes...that 2.09R would be what to expect of it at approx 210F...would be interesting to see if there are any stored ECT codes like 61 or 117

Yea I knew you could do it without a scan tool but I didn't even mention it lastnite, it was cold and windy so the little bit of work we did do was enough to make me decide to put it in someone else's hands.

You really don't know how to listen to you. set your timing to 10 degrees with the spout connector removed. Do not pass go do not collect $200. set your timing to 10 degrees as instructed and stop ****ing with it

Sent from my CyanMobileX Evo 4G

Calm down, I wasn't the one doing it and the guy knows more than me so I let him handle up on it. Friday it's goin on vacation so I'll post up what I find out from them.

 

[PonyGlued]

Yea I knew you could do it without a scan tool but I didn't even mention it lastnite, it was cold and windy so the little bit of work we did do was enough to make me decide to put it in someone else's hands.

Oh okay, I wasn't sure if you knew about that. The ECT is the third most important sensor and is almost certainly your problem. The sensor itself is good, but the computer thinks that the motor is 254 degrees. So if you research that problem, you might find some of the fixes that others found i.e. a grounded problem, or that controller is bad. You are close so maybe rethink whether to take it to a shop or not...some reading for you:
http://www.oldfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=28

 

[ElrodKTPQ_89]

Thanks man I'll look into that!

 

[PonyGlued]

OK...and keep in mind that the SPOUT should have been disconnected as discussed earlier, but you can always go back to that after the sensor is fixed

 

[Michael Plummer]

You really don't know how to listen to you. set your timing to 10 degrees with the spout connector removed. Do not pass go do not collect $200. set your timing to 10 degrees as instructed and stop ****ing with it
Sent from my CyanMobileX Evo 4G

With all due respect to everyone, Addermk2 is only showing his frustration, trust me I've been in his shoes before. It's hard trying to diagnosis a problem over the internet but it's even harder when people don't listen. In order to troubleshoot your vehicle correctly, you need to follow the procedures exactly, you also need good testing equipment and lastly I would highly recommend quality Ford Motorcraft sensors and distributor.

I hope the shop you took it to is able to diagnosis your problem and fix it.

Good luck
Michael Plummer

 

[PonyGlued]

What I think should be done now is to disconnect the SPOUT and call your buddy over with the light again. Lock it down at 10BTC and then thank him and send him home. Then get a manual (many library's have them too) and also get a multimeter(gotta have it). The fan coming on cold points to a problem in that area, but with those testing items in hand. The guys here will be able to help you get to the problem fix I'm sure. A big job like the one you are doing pretty much demands you having at least those two testing items...I don't know but you might already have them :grin: