What cams do I have? Source of cam gears?

D3VST8R96GT

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The Summit link is for crank sprockets, not cam sprockets. If the stock cam gears are all over the place as Silver95Bird said, what good is a dialed in crank gear?
Grinding the key way off

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Silver95bird

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You guys realize an adjustable crank gear or an adjustable cam gear are two ways of doing the same thing, right?
 

lwarrior1016

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Yeah, the adjustable crank gears will essentially do the same thing as adjusting the cam gears. The only problem with all of this is that the Pinky will have to get a bunch of new tools. Gotta have a degree wheel and some other bits to make it happen.

What I usually do is get it on the degree wheel and make both sides close, then I will compare compression readings from bank to bank and make adjustments to the cam gears to make the cylinder pressure even on both sides.
 
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PinkieT

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I've learned a lot here about mod motor cams. Thanks for all the input! Unless I with the lottery I'll probably stick with stock cam components. Hey, the car came with a bone stock motor and 3.23s, and now will have 3.73s, PI heads and intake, Accufab plenum and throttle body, BBK shorties and CAI, and Screamin Demon coil packs. I have an SCT tuner I'll use when done. All that should give me a good power boost for not much coin. The only things I bought new out of all the stuff were the coils and Ford Racing wires.
 
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PinkieT

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Local Mustang shop quoted me $1,500 to do the PI swap if I supply the parts. That includes installing the BBK shorties but not tuning when done. Is that a good price?
 

lwarrior1016

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How mechanically inclined are you? Personally, I feel like that price is a little high, but then again it is a complete head swap. The header install doesn’t mean much because you can bolt them to the head before you set the head down.
 

D3VST8R96GT

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1500 isnt a bad price. It's basically a head gasket job but you get better heads. They earn every dollar at 1500 lol but might as well do a full fresh PI motor

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96blak54

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$1500 is a deal if you take in consideration of a poor job. The shop gambles making profit with such jobs cause of the possible problems afterwards. How does the shop protect itself when oil gets into the cooling system because the owner supplied the wrong gaskets. Or headers wont seal up due to poor gasket and header bolt selection.

Wait,....now i have scratches all over my fender and how did my hood get this chipped corner.

Could they have used floor protection from nasty oily shoes.

The mechanic must of had a screw driver in his pocket to have ripped my perfect seats.

Car has to sit outside, along a heavy traffic highway for a few days.

Well great, the mechanics child died and his life has been flipped upside down and he does not feel like being a mechanic for a few months while your car is in pieces.

Theses are only a few scenarios that prevent me from getting any major car repair done,...especially eith my toys.
 
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PinkieT

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Well, 30 years ago I built a 383 in my garage with the help of a buddy of mine. I would have no problems doing a head swap on a 5.0, but the cramped engine compartment, two cams to synchronize, I've never used torque to yield head bolts, etc. kinda scares me. The car is cherry, I see no need to do a short block too.
 
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PinkieT

PinkieT

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$1500 is a deal if you take in consideration of a poor job. The shop gambles making profit with such jobs cause of the possible problems afterwards. How does the shop protect itself when oil gets into the cooling system because the owner supplied the wrong gaskets. Or headers wont seal up due to poor gasket and header bolt selection.

Wait,....now i have scratches all over my fender and how did my hood get this chipped corner.

Could they have used floor protection from nasty oily shoes.

The mechanic must of had a screw driver in his pocket to have ripped my perfect seats.

Car has to sit outside, along a heavy traffic highway for a few days.

Well great, the mechanics child died and his life has been flipped upside down and he does not feel like being a mechanic for a few months while your car is in pieces.

Theses are only a few scenarios that prevent me from getting any major car repair done,...especially eith my toys.

I had a "reputable" Mopar shop work on my Road Runner. It took five times as long as promised, they did work wrong, they didn't do some of the work they were supposed to, they built the motor they wanted vs. what I wanted (you don't want that cam, man, you need THIS cam), charged me for a cam and lifter kit AND the lifters separately, couldn't get the Pertronix distributor so put in a Chinese POS without telling me and tried to charge for the Pertonix... I'm leery of shops I don't know, but I'm also realistic enough to think a head swap MIGHT be over my head. The shop that quoted my head swap has a great reputation, but so did the shop that f'd over my Road Runner. That said, I am retired with have no income so I have more time than money. Not going to do anything until the fall either way, looking for a part time job so I can justify spending coin on luxuries like paying a shop for work on toys.
 

96blak54

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Torque to yeild in shord means the bolt is a spring.

If you can perform sequence torque tightening 3x and then a final 90°turn of the bolt,...you be fine. Honestly, it takes more skill to rebuild an old push rod engine. Most skill level needed on these modulars are attention to clean and location. Prepping surfaces before bolting together and timing location is as simple as installing a timing chain on a push rod engine. You wont have any problems.
 
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PinkieT

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Just watched a Youtube video of somebody installing long tubes. Instead of lifting the motor, they dropped the K-frame. There is more than one way to skin a cat! I've got the garage and a good selection of general tools, maybe I'll find a local Mustang guru to help me do the job in exchange for money/beer/ pizza.
 

98'Coco'GtVert

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Just watched a Youtube video of somebody installing long tubes. Instead of lifting the motor, they dropped the K-frame. There is more than one way to skin a cat! I've got the garage and a good selection of general tools, maybe I'll find a local Mustang guru to help me do the job in exchange for money/beer/ pizza.
Just do it the same way the YouTuber did itll be easier dropping the K-member & etc. Good luck bud keep us updated!

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AStangThang

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I know I'm late on this, but I just signed up, and I've come from all ford mustang forum. To the OP, have you already had the heads put on yet?
 
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PinkieT

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I know I'm late on this, but I just signed up, and I've come from all ford mustang forum. To the OP, have you already had the heads put on yet?

Nope! I need to gather up the courage to do it myself, or the scratch to pay somebody else.
 

AStangThang

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Nope! I need to gather up the courage to do it myself, or the scratch to pay somebody else.
You can do it no problem. Since this will be your first time I suggest you write down the steps you need to take in order so you don't skip an important part, and most importantly is to not over think this. We are all here and more than willing to help you out if you get stuck. I know LWarrior from my other forum, and he is a kick ads dude, and by reading other post a lot of other guys are also. I will be pulling my engine out here in a couple of weeks to do mine. My heads are fully rebuilt, decked .030, factory valves w/ 3 angle valve job, intake valve margins ground .040 for clearance, Viton valve seals, Manley Nextec springs, Ford lash adjusters, factory retainers and locks. Heads are topped of with a set of MHS cams. The baby should get on down the road then. Have you looked into any cams yet? Do you daily this car? If so, I wouldn't go over a "stage 2" camshaft. Comp 262AH's are great "off the shelve" cams for a daily driver. I would also look at MHS, cause they actually have the latest cam specs out right now. I wish Cushman would do some revisions, but I think my camshaft the MHS Gen2 stage 2 is a revision of Cushmans stage 1's. I could be wrong, but damn they are very similar, and these 2 companies work together and have for many years.
 
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PinkieT

PinkieT

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Thanks for the input, man! It is a cruiser. Scored a pair of factory new PI heads complete with cams and a PI intake for cheap. I figure the $ per horsepower & ft. lb. for a PI swap alone is pretty good, especially if I do my own labor. I look at cams running $600 a set, more than twice what I paid for the heads and intake, and can't see new cams worth the money to me.
 

AStangThang

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Thanks for the input, man! It is a cruiser. Scored a pair of factory new PI heads complete with cams and a PI intake for cheap. I figure the $ per horsepower & ft. lb. for a PI swap alone is pretty good, especially if I do my own labor. I look at cams running $600 a set, more than twice what I paid for the heads and intake, and can't see new cams worth the money to me.
Wow my friend, you got an awesome deal! Very nice indeed. I think you will love the power jump. I agree with you on the aftermarket cams, they are expensive, and even more expensive if you don't I install them yourself. Thank the good Lord he gave me the mechanical skills to do all these things, and do those things or I wouldn't mod my car at all lol.
 

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