What kind of subs for volume more than bass?

how about 2 of these?

 

JL make very nice subs. I have been out of the game for a few years too but Crystal used to make nice sounding subs. What your looking for is more of a SQ (sound quality) sub rather then SPL (loud ass bass lol).

Look for sleeker designed subs, ones with massive surrounds and magnets lots of the time are just marketing gimmiks but they are also usually the SPL style of subwoofer. :banana:

 

Alpine Type R's I heard are also pretty nice. If I where to buy subs, those would be the ones I'd buy. But I dont know too much about Car Audio either

 

Too make it very simple...
A ported box will make less bass, but will be LOUDER
A sealed box will create deeper bass, but requires a higher watt amp to get the same "loudness" as the ported boxes.

I use 1 12" Kicker Solobaric in a .88 cubic inch sealed box (very small box) and a Kenwood 600 watt amp. I keep the gained turned about 1/2 way on the amp and it delivers plenty of bass with plenty of room for adjustment. I don't like a whole lot of bass either.

 

Yes, it could. But if you want it LOUD with less bass, you'll want to port your box

 

the only problem with ported boxes is they operate in a very narrow frequency band.....as far as the "loudness"

 

I have 1 Type R Alpine is a Custom Ported Box and It hits really hard, but it also sounds really tight. What kind of Bass response do you want? 12's IMO have the best of both worlds. I have had 10's 12's and 15's already so if you have any questions on Subs, Amps, or anything else let me know.

 

check out car audio forums..theres a lot to learn there...alpine type rs are a good bet.

 

I have 2 12" and when I listen to like rock, they dont hit that good compared to my friends 2 10"ers, but when it comes to like rap, or double kick drums, my hit like 20x harder.

 

oh yeah, i have one 12" type R in a ported box. with a 600 watt alpine amp powering it. holy shit. it hits hard as helllllll. im actually thinking about selling the box/sub combo tho for some tens maybe.

 

How much for hte box/sub?

 

alpines are loud, which is why 3/4 of the kids at my HS have them, personally JL if my fav. my lil 10" JL can make my head hurt but my bros 12" w6 was like :noes: :noes: JL FTW

 

Most "boomy" systems are so because of a poorly designed enclosure or poorly designed sub, or just the wrong choice for what vehicle it is in. Subs of a lower Qts have less resonance and a sharper rolloff toward Fs, meaning: a "tighter" sounding sub when put in an enclosure such as sealed, or infinite baffle (free air) for that matter. A good example of subs that are designed as such would be the Image Dynamics subs, some of the JL models (W1v2, W3, W6v2).

One of the better values on the market for such as sub is the Peerless XXLS car audio sub. They're well known for their home audio equipment moreso thancar audio, but regardless this particular sub offers excellent build quality, the design of the sub and sound quality is very comparable with something like a JL W6v2.

http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=143&products_id=1678

 

I usually build sub enclosures to achieve a QTS between .8 and .85. This is usually a good sounding box that is still pretty accurate. The closer to .7 the Qts is the bigger the box will be and the less power the driver will be able to handle. The closer to 1 the Qts is the smaller the box. Speakers usually have a high SPL output at a higher Qts value (they also usually sound like shit). They will be more sonically loud and musical with a lower Qts. Most decent speaker enclosure design software will take into account a majority of the Thiele Small parameters and give you a good power range to use for the output and Qts you desire.