200,000 mile GT build

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Akurma

Akurma

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Apparently it's a swap in but its raining like crazy here and just got done with work. I think it's going to get postponed to sometime this weekend. From reading the Cobra guys love it. I can already tell its leaps and bounds better from stock after opening the box. Here's a picture of it and the box/part number. it's made for a newer mustang.

For me, anything that tightens the steering and makes the car drive better is worth it. The response from it is crazy. It goes from steering like a boat to steering like a go kart. It cracks me up and this is even with the 1/2" slack in it. The steering shaft is expensive but I feel its worth it. You can apparently buy a part that Borg and Werner makes to just replace the rag joint but I didn't want to mess with all that. I wanted a straight out of the box mod. Doing it killed my firewall seal and bearing. Probably because its over 20 years old and a rubber part. I like the solid shaft as well because of my long tubes.

That rust would drive me INSANE. How are your valve stem seals after being in there? Mine took a crap at 68Kish but revived them using AT205. That was almost 10 years ago. I'm praying they don't give out. Talk about embarrassing as hell though at stop lights.

Wow yeah just did a quick search of that part number and found a few threads that sound exactly like the issue I have with mine. only runs about $50, ill definitely be adding this when i get around to the steering shaft, thank you!

Yeah rust sucks, its just part of living in Pennsylvania lol, as for valve stem seals I don't really know but I did notice very rarely a puff of blueish smoke would come out on start up.
 

TheOdessa

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Here you go Akruma. Long story short - it worked PERFECTLY and the steering feels absolutely amazing again. Wish I did this sooner honestly. Scroll down to the bottom I took pictures and put in install tips.

https://www.sn95forums.com/threads/theodessa-build-list-with-pics.75798/page-3

Also regarding the puff of smoke - that's what mine did. At start up it'd puff a small cloud of blue/white smoke. After sitting at a long stop light when I started to drive it was a large cloud of smoke. It was absolutely embarrassing. I braced myself to pay a shop to pay to repair it then one night watching Scotty Kilmer on youtube he had a video on AT205 reseal. I'm not a additive guy but figured what the hell. I'll be out the cost of a bottle and an oil change.

I used a bottle of AT205 reseal with 6 qts Mobil 1 High Milege Full Syn oil and it was cured. That was 7 years ago.

To this day every oil change I do the same thing. To this day no issues. Knock on wood. I'll get it fixed eventually when I do something like going with a blower but for now if it ain't broke...

I even repaired my aluminum racing jack I got at HF that started to leak right after a year of owning it. Did the same thing and refilled it with jack oil. To this day I still use that same jack and it still has no issues.
 
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Akurma

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Got a better look at the rust on the shock towers today, disconnected the distribution block from the rail and the hydroboost unit from the firewall. Whoever the engineer was at Ford when they designed the hydroboost unit should be punched. For some reason they made it so there is one nut in the engine bay side, and three inside the car, under the dash. Why couldn't they have done it the opposite?! to make matters worse there is so much shit in the way of accessing the nuts under the dash it spent a lot longer than it should have to unbolt it, let alone contorting my body to fit under the dash. Anyway, I might look into replacing the hydroboost unit as I have already had to replace the master cylinder, plus it is already out. I have to check and see how much they are and if its worth it to do it now. While I was contorted under the dash I saw that grommet/gasket that Odessa suggest for the steering shaft, Super easy to get to and will definitely be replacing that as mine looked like it has seen better days.

there is the obvious hole on the rear side of the shock tower, but the more concerning part is that the rust from the tower is actually pushing and rippling the driver side rail. it is hard to see in the pictures ( see picture 4) but the driver side rail is actually slightly bowed out towards the passenger side. The plus side is the actual rail it solid, aside from what looks like surface rust just starting in the wheel well area when the spring perch of the K-member touches the rail. I found a salvage yard in Florida and California that says they have strut tower and rail assemblies in their yard, going to give them a call tomorrow and see how much they want for them and how much shipping would be. I figured its better to spend a little extra in shipping from a southern or western state as those cars have a far higher chance of being rust free, this also beats trying to make my own patch panel. All depends on the price the yards want.

I also saw that LMR sells rail repair kits for Foxbodies, I know the new edge is based on the fox platform and someone in the review section mentioned they used the kit to fix their 1995 GT but had to make some modifications to the kit. If my frame rail is that bad, i may just end up going that route. It's a shame that restoration panels aren't really available for these SN-95 cars, They are at that weird age where most people will junk them because they are old, and then other people who see the "collect-ability" if you will, of them and want to save them. I am the latter, and I bet within the next 5 years we'll see patch panels and restoration parts start to be sold.

The passenger side looks mint compared to the driver lol. It is just starting to rust on the front side, the rest is all surface that I can easily take care of. The only other concerning part I noticed on the passenger side was that on the inner wheel well area by the A/C accumulator it is starting to show some signs of surface rust(see last picture.) I assume this is from the A/C lines in that area and some of the lines having moisture on them. Not a big deal at all as i plan to bedline/undercoat both of the wheel wells and inside of the fenders to prevent this sort of rust from happening again.

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Addicted

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I just bought an extra SN for $200 to keep around for stuff like this. That spot is a delicate place because of where our K bolts on, and takes some punishment. I'm getting ready to tear into my spare car, if they are good on it, and not rusted, I can cut the whole section out and send them to you, just pay the shipping. You can see pics of the car in my "New Member" post. It's blue and never been wrecked.
 
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Akurma

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I just bought an extra SN for $200 to keep around for stuff like this. That spot is a delicate place because of where our K bolts on, and takes some punishment. I'm getting ready to tear into my spare car, if they are good on it, and not rusted, I can cut the whole section out and send them to you, just pay the shipping. You can see pics of the car in my "New Member" post. It's blue and never been wrecked.

WOW that is really awesome of you to offer! If they are solid and rust free I will absolutely take them off your hands, I'd rather money go into another enthusiast's pocket than a companies lol. When do you plan on tearing into the car? Ill have to check out the thread in the new members section

Welcome, I as well just transferred from MM. Actually saw this build there. I think I might of seen @TheOdessa mention it to you or @07GtS197 mentioning it to TheOdessa about switching over, and that prompted myself to do it as well.

yeah I made an update to my thread recently over there and they both commented on it mentioning this forum. I like it already and its ALOT more active the MM is now lol
 

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Been on here a short time, but I already know there are a bunch of bastages on here...
 

Addicted

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It's no sweat man. I'm almost positive they are good. I'm getting ready to start taking it apart in a couple days. I will end up junking it anyway after I get through with it, so I stripping her down.
 

Addicted

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Yeah bro just pay the shipping for them, i will be inside there anyway. I got the car on the cheap, so I look at it as $ that I would have spent anyway, and let others eat of my plate cause it's not cost anything.
 

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Been on here a short time, but I already know there are a bunch of bastages on here...
One of the biggest reasons why I like this place is because we all don't have alot of $ for those big mods, but $ doesn't keep us from making something perform great. Plus, no matter how much we modify, $ spent, or any other specific area, we all learn something new every day. If you like really small stuff that matters this is the place. Good ole boys that love mustangs that are young, old, experienced, not experienced, a little experienced, veterans, fire fighters, cops, mechanics, welders all with the same.
 
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Akurma

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It's no sweat man. I'm almost positive they are good. I'm getting ready to start taking it apart in a couple days. I will end up junking it anyway after I get through with it, so I stripping her down.
Yeah bro just pay the shipping for them, i will be inside there anyway. I got the car on the cheap, so I look at it as $ that I would have spent anyway, and let others eat of my plate cause it's not cost anything.

wow your're so kind, need more people with your mentality in this world! Shoot me a PM when you get a chance so I can give you a zip code to get a rough estimate on shipping costs.
 

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wow your're so kind, need more people with your mentality in this world! Shoot me a PM when you get a chance so I can give you a zip code to get a rough estimate on shipping costs.
It's not that I'm kind, ive just experienced about everything there is to experience, and I truly know what life's about. I'm getting ready to head to the shop, and I will PM you some pics of the strut towers.
 
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Akurma

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No real updates, Having a hell of a time finding a good used frame rail & strut tower. I'm using a website called " Car-part.com " Its basically a data base for salvage yards to list cars that repair shops can buy parts from, super helpful. However I've found a few southern and western salvage yards that have these cars but the two in California that I called no longer have the cars, and the one in Florida simply refused to ship it for whatever reason. I did find a mint 02 GT at a yard in Texas, they even had pictures of both rails. But they have been REAL flaky with communication, hard to get a hold of and when I finally do they say they will send me a cut sheet so they know where to cut it off at. I have yet to get the cut sheet and i've been told they would email it to me twice now.

Long story short, this is a bit more difficult than I thought it would be lol. I do have a lead on one from Georgia from MPS, but they said it would be $350 no matter how big or small they cut. Anytime they cut a car, doesn't matter if its a quarter panel or front frame rail, its $350 flat. They suggested just getting the entire front clip of a car this way I have both and the rad support. The entire front clip would be $350, or if i just wanted the driver side, it would be $350. Getting the entire front clip isn't Not a bad idea, but I cant imagine fright shipping for a front clip is going to be cheap
 

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My transmission I have now come from a totaled cobra, I got it from MPS. Good place!
 
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Akurma

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My transmission I have now come from a totaled cobra, I got it from MPS. Good place!

Yeah I have only heard good things about them, a little more expensive than others but again, nothing but good things! I also called "The Parts Farm" as they are also located in Georgia, They said about $300+shipping for just the driver side. But they purchase their cars from all over the US so there is a chance a car they have is similar to mine. Right now im probably going to go with MPS, just have to figure out shipping.
 

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