95 gt Runs like a Turd

[Stang331]

I have a 94 gt 5spd, mods are BBK CAI, BBK MAF, RPM Intake, 373 gears, Just picked up the car a few weeks ago, It has not run right since I got it, and I was getting a right side 02 sensor code, so I changed that out figured that was why it was running bad, but still not it, I got codes for 565 Canister puge circuit fail in the memory, and in the continuous memory I got 212 IDM, Ignition montor right side, and 543 when pump commanded pump on volt not dected on FPM, and now the 543 and is in the Memory and the continous memory...So I have resit the PCM two times, and I get the same codes..

Now the car gets bad MPG has a small miss at idle, rpms will jump around, will pop when driving it sometimes, and just has no power, it is like she is held back. Most of the problums happen at low rpms, and runs better at high rpms but still not like it should..

I have cleaned the MAF and the IAC and TB, changed coil, new right side 02, I can unplug the MAF and it does not change the Idle very much at all, and I dont think that is right, it should run like crap...

 

[ivan12]

What is your timing set at? Have you checked for any vacuum leaks? Are you 100% sure it still has the stock cam in there?

 

[ProKiller]

if you unplug the maf its not gauranteed to mess with the idle but will pretty much immediately break up once you give it throttle. make sure you dont' have any vacuum leaks and check your timing. does it act differently when its cold vs. hot? could be the pip sensor.

 

[Stang331]

I have checked for vacume leaks with carb cleaner, The guy told me that I got it from said when he got it the guy told him it had a small cam in it, but I don't think it does, bc sometimes it idles fine..It just depends sometimes it will act up worse when it is cold and others when it is warmed up..

I took the cap off the Dizzy and looked for metal shavings and did find some laying around, it is not alot, but enough to cause me to wonder about the PIP like you said.. So I bumped up the timming some, and she does run better when I took it for a test drive, it did not miss at all and no hesatation when I drove it, but still felt like it was weak, So we might be on the right track here, with the dizzy, anyway to test the dizzy to see if it is working like it should?

 

[ttocs]

wow, long sentences

sounds like timing to me but also check your tps and iac if its having problems at idle

 

[Stang331]

Took the car for a drive and after 10mins of driving, the cel light come on( code 565) and started to hesitate bad, and fall on its face, seems to happen between 1200@1500 rpms..Did some research, and code 565 canisters purge will cause it to act the way my car is, and they say it does it when it is warmed up and comes and goes.. So the purge valve, vents gas fumes from the canisters, so my Question is do I need this, can I just let it vent out and do away with it?

 

[screamin5oh]

no you dont need that, if you plug the line you will need to vent the cap i just drilled a few holes in the cap to make sure it vents, but i do not think that will cause running issues unless its sucking raw fuel or moisture in, just cap off the intake and plug that line off, if you want to take it completly off you will have to remove the inner fender wall and unbolt it all but it still will have a line coming from the tank so either plug it and vent your cap or leave it hang so it vents, put new plugs and wires on the car, new cap and rotor, throw some fresh 93 octain and bump the timming to 12 degree's

 

[Stang331]

Plugs are new, and so is wires, the cap looks good also..Seems like car is running better now, since I bumped the timming up, it has not gave me no porbs yet, so we will see...Thanks

 

[from6to8]

I have a 94 gt 5spd, mods are BBK CAI, BBK MAF, RPM Intake, 373 gears, Just picked up the car a few weeks ago, It has not run right since I got it, and I was getting a right side 02 sensor code, so I changed that out figured that was why it was running bad, but still not it, I got codes for 565 Canister puge circuit fail in the memory, and in the continuous memory I got 212 IDM, Ignition montor right side, and 543 when pump commanded pump on volt not dected on FPM, and now the 543 and is in the Memory and the continous memory...So I have resit the PCM two times, and I get the same codes..

Now the car gets bad MPG has a small miss at idle, rpms will jump around, will pop when driving it sometimes, and just has no power, it is like she is held back. Most of the problums happen at low rpms, and runs better at high rpms but still not like it should..

I have cleaned the MAF and the IAC and TB, changed coil, new right side 02, I can unplug the MAF and it does not change the Idle very much at all, and I dont think that is right, it should run like crap...

did u ever figure out what your problem/problems were? Mine is doing similiar things

 

[from6to8]

if you unplug the maf its not gauranteed to mess with the idle but will pretty much immediately break up once you give it throttle. make sure you dont' have any vacuum leaks and check your timing. does it act differently when its cold vs. hot? could be the pip sensor.

hey pro how is your low end torque with your setup?

would it be easier to get the motor stroked and SC added at same time?

I might build a 331 but not sure

 

[CC'S95GT]

hey pro how is your low end torque with your setup?

would it be easier to get the motor stroked and SC added at same time?

I might build a 331 but not sure

do you realize this thread is 2 years old?
You might start your own thread with your issues. it all good. typical noob mistake

 

[from6to8]

do you realize this thread is 2 years old?
You might start your own thread with your issues. it all good. typical noob mistake

yeah i just PMed 331. My problems were pretty much just like his with same codes. I fixed a blown intake gasket and still having missing issues. Did a compression test and not sure if the guage was malfunctioning but no. 2 showed 120 at first then over course of a week and checking it, it showed sometimes 100, 90, 60. If i did the test immediately after doing a test that showed say 100, it would show 0. Did the oil in the hole as well and comp didnt rise. I will try some things today including a new pcm and see what happens. Might also change the plugs and wires and cap n rotor just to see even though those things are current. If they dont solve the issue at least next time when time to change them i will put the other stuff back on as they arent old.

also have on the list to get all grounds checked as well as a leak down test done. I'm going to copy and paste this in a new thread also though cause yes i understand how old threads just dont get the attention any longer