95 GT Won't Start

v6mustang94

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I was out cruising around with a couple buddies yesterday. After about an hour, my rpms dropped to 0 and the CEL came on. Now it won't turn on. I noticed nothing wrong with the car while it was driving.

Car turns over fine, but doesn't seem to spark up. We picked up an OBD1 scanner, hooked up to the port under the hood, and no codes were found.

We held a stethoscope up to a few injectors, tried starting it, and no clicking sound could be heard coming from those injectors.

We can hear the fuel pump prime every time the key is turned to on.

Checked the Schrader valve. Purged the fuel that was in there, tried starting, checked to see if more fuel came back. It did.

Pulled and checked each fuse. All good.

I checked my Ford Racing Speedo Cal. and noticed there's a green and red LED showing. I'm not sure if that's normal or not.

Disconnected the battery for a few minutes, tried starting, still won't fire.

So, so far it seems the injectors aren't getting told to work. Anyone have any ideas before I start looking for a replacement PCM?
 

CC'S95GT

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Sounds like the classic PIP failure.
That's the pick up inside the dizzy which tells the computer when to fire the injectors and plugs. It also keeps the FP running after the initial prime times out.
 

v6mustang94

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I should add this was the first long cruise after I bumped my timing to 16*.

I've been reading a lot that says to check the PIP. I guess I'll start reading into that more.
 

Tony Corley

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I agree, could be PIP. For the record, did you verify whether or not you are getting fire at the plugs?
 

v6mustang94

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Not 100%. We used a stethoscope to listen if the injectors ticked at all and they didn't. I'm going to my hands on a voltmeter today to check for power. If I have power to them, is it worth picking up a noid light?
 

v6mustang94

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So I put the positive cable of the voltmeter to the red wire of one of the injectors, and the negative to the other wire. I didn't get a reading. So I pulled off a random sensor and put the voltmeter on that and got 13.

Looks like the injectors aren't getting power. Thoughts?
 

v6mustang94

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Hmm... I found a test light buried in my buddy's toolbox. Connected the test light to the negative terminal of the battery, and touched it to the red wire of the injector plug. The test light lit up. Assuming I'm doing this right, that means I am getting power?
 

CC'S95GT

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Pull dizzy out then reconnect it to the harness. (pay attention to where the rotor is pointing)
Turn the ignition on (DONT START), then after the FP finishes it's prime turn the rotor on the dizzy.
Did the FP kick back on? It should have. If it didn't then the prob is the dizzy.
 

v6mustang94

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Other than timing and where rotor is pointing, anything else I need to be weary of when removing the dizzy?

Just to be sure, remove the wires, pull dizzy, plug wires back, turn key on position, wait for FP, turn rotor by hand (?) to see if FP turns on
 

v6mustang94

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Well man, I don't know why I didn't pull the cap off sooner...
90287aed60939eef1510d530ab8237db.jpg
 

CC'S95GT

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LOL
Give the top of the shaft a wiggle. I've had the bushing wear out and the rotor hit the cap.
 

v6mustang94

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Yeah, oem replacements can't be too much to at least see if it happens again. Might get two so I have a back up. The tow cost me $100 last night.
 

v6mustang94

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New rotor didn't take care of it. Bought a cap too, but figured I'd try my old one first. The story continues.
 

v6mustang94

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I unplug the dizzy's connector from the harness, took off plug wires and cap, pulled the dizzy, plugged the connector back into the harness, turned key on, let fuel pump prime, spun the rotor a bunch, and nothing happened. Guaranteed it's a bad dizzy?
 

v6mustang94

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Noid light tests failed. Tried turning it over and rotating the distributor, but the noid light never turns on.

So pip or pcm probably?
 

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