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My mom always had a cool car. Even tho her dementia is a 5minute memory, she spot a badass car on demand. Strange disease!
96blak54 2001 Cobra
- Thread starter 96blak54
- Start date
badass98svt
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Strange disease indeed. My mother is going through dementia as well. I wish your mom, you and your family the best.
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I appreciate that.
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Last night my son and i spent time cutting the mufflers off and straight piping it and wow!! The exhaust sounds awesome. Its obnoxiously loud now and i love it!!
RAU03MACH
Legend
need a sound clip
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A little exhaust note while driving sound bite. The windows were down so there are some wind noises.
Cat delete with Pypes Xpipe and muffler delete out throught the stock tail pipes.
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Attacking these ball joints! Ball joints are peferfect and tight, but as you can see the boots have failed. I also figured while im in here, ill pull the springs out and cut a coil off. I thought purchasing lowering springs was ideal, but have found with these 99-04 cobras its favorable to cut the stock springs. I also read in some old forums that people did swap in lowering springs and was unhappy with the ride quality, which they eventually swapped the stock springs(one coil cut off) back in. So thats what im going to do.
I had to buy a ball joint fork. Simply wacking the lower A arm or ball joint would not release. Even then with the fork i had to apply some ass hammering it to seperate.
Now setting up the ball joint press tool i have discovered....either the ball joint press C clamp press is to small, because now i cant place the center plate on the top side to keep the thread rod from slipping off or i simply dont use the centering plate. Who has this experience and can guide me?
I had to buy a ball joint fork. Simply wacking the lower A arm or ball joint would not release. Even then with the fork i had to apply some ass hammering it to seperate.
Now setting up the ball joint press tool i have discovered....either the ball joint press C clamp press is to small, because now i cant place the center plate on the top side to keep the thread rod from slipping off or i simply dont use the centering plate. Who has this experience and can guide me?
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I figured it out. Im not using the ball joint press tool correctly. Had to youtube a video to school my dumass
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Out with the old, in with the new. The new is cheap ataboyzone valuecraft $35 balljoint and honestly is a hefty piece campared to the stock one.
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My only gripe with the new balljoint is excessive boot material interfering with installation. Had to trim it back with a knife
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At one point in time i had a nice car lift in my shop, but hard times hit and it was cashed out to feed the family. A car lift would have made the work conditions alot smoother like having ample room under the balljoint press so that i could use an impact instead of a big heavy adjustable wrench.
So far, ive got both balljoints replaced and i cut the front springs 1.25 coil amount. Wheels on and sitting on the ground, the ride height looks good! Next is the rear coil springs need to be cut. Probably attack it after work today. I have never messed with these independent rear set ups and could use a little guidance about how to drop the rear to extract the springs. Im open to suggestions.
So far, ive got both balljoints replaced and i cut the front springs 1.25 coil amount. Wheels on and sitting on the ground, the ride height looks good! Next is the rear coil springs need to be cut. Probably attack it after work today. I have never messed with these independent rear set ups and could use a little guidance about how to drop the rear to extract the springs. Im open to suggestions.
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My next plan of upgrades is to paint detail these fender wells, brake calipers and anything with a rust scale. Also the inner rims behind the face of the wheels...they covered in brake dust crud. Maybe paint them black or silver...i dont know yet.
Also now that the stance is coming into play, the stock wheel width seems a tad narrow, especially the back wheels and im thinking wheel spacers? Just so the wheels dont look seriously tucked.
Also now that the stance is coming into play, the stock wheel width seems a tad narrow, especially the back wheels and im thinking wheel spacers? Just so the wheels dont look seriously tucked.
joemomma
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Spacers would definitely be the budget option for getting less tuck. Coming along nicely! We need more pics!
ttocs
Forum's #1 poster
I am still amazed at what can be learned on youtube.
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Springs cut! The 1st time after cutting the springs, after buttoning it all back together, the rear passenger side was a bit higher. Measured it was 3/4" higher. And then driving it thinking the springs will settle in....not the case. Driving it with the springs cut surprisingly feels very smooth and nice. I thought some harshness would come into play, but it didnt. Very smooth cushiony ride, but i could feel the pass rear spring wonkyness, throwing the car off.
2nd time rear up, passenger spring rotated 180.....didnt work.
Rear back up in the air! 3rd time, Pulled out the pass rear spring to cut a bit more off. It worked. Car sits even now
2nd time rear up, passenger spring rotated 180.....didnt work.
Rear back up in the air! 3rd time, Pulled out the pass rear spring to cut a bit more off. It worked. Car sits even now
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Left side driver, right side passenger, looking from the rear of car....This is the amount i had to cut.
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For those interested
Front springs cut 1-1/8 coil both upper/lower isolators included
Rear springs cut passenger 1-1/4 coil, driver 1-1/8 coil both upper/lower isolators included
Front springs cut 1-1/8 coil both upper/lower isolators included
Rear springs cut passenger 1-1/4 coil, driver 1-1/8 coil both upper/lower isolators included
