Arguments about N/A vs. Boost

[rz5.0]

Boost it....

 

[justinschmidt1]

You're worrying me with that statement because now your contradicting yourself. Making power EFFICIENTLY as you said is the correct way to make power. Is adding boost and e85 a way to make power? Sure, but you're putting more load on the motor than you would if you were just to free up the extra horsepower that is there by making it more efficient. That's my point.

With that I'm done, every point I make goes over your head and I really don't feel like spelling it out anymore.

I chose to make power with efficiency because I have a stock shortblock...

If I had a MMR 1000 I would throw blower cams in it and turn the boost up. Theres only so many restrictions you can free up.....

and I wouldnt say its the "correct" way. That is just retarded. Your FORCING air into the motor no matter how you look at it.

Even with heads and cams I would still be running 16-18 psi if I had a built motor which is more boost than I run now.

 

[96TANGERINEGT]

i don't know is 280 really that much of of a streach for a npi. na motor ? a lot of port work hi comp. , cams and all above .
my car is all stock other than a cai and exhaust . i have a guy in town with a dyno. i think i may pay the money and be depressed . LOL if i cry i will be a man and post the video.. lmfao

 

[MadStang]

2v NA CAN make power, but ask Duffy, it ain't cheap!

On a badass note, he's finally getting his car back. I guess he had enough of the "its never gonna be finished comments" lmao

 

[the.greg]

How is adding more boost and E85 adding more load on a motor than building a high compression n/a that must be revved to 7.5k? Your n/a will be a hell of a lot more peaky/dyno queen than the booste one too.

 

[the.greg]

And besides that you specifically used a kenne bell termi engine for your example which I promise won't be peaky even with more boost and E85. Seriously you used a bad example haha.

 

[justinschmidt1]

How is adding more boost and E85 adding more load on a motor than building a high compression n/a that must be revved to 7.5k? Your n/a will be a hell of a lot more peaky/dyno queen than the booste one too.

Who knows lol.

There is more than 1 way to skin a cat.

I know id be doing e85 and a pulley swap way before I ever consider doing heads and cams on a 4v.


Nothing with a KB will be peaky. lol

That thing prolly makes 600 ftlb of tq at 2k rpms

 

[MadStang]

How is adding more boost and E85 adding more load on a motor than building a high compression n/a that must be revved to 7.5k? Your n/a will be a hell of a lot more peaky/dyno queen than the booste one too.

never said there wouldn't be more load on the boost vs. n/a. i was saying LOTS of boost versus low boost with more efficient mods like port work etc. etc. make the same power with less boost, less stress on the motor.

As for my car being peaky, not even remotely true. the rpm range is set for 3000-7500 for road racing. The cams are designed for a broader powerband versus a top end car.

 

[the.greg]

never said there wouldn't be more load on the boost vs. n/a. i was saying LOTS of boost versus low boost with more efficient mods like port work etc. etc. make the same power with less boost, less stress on the motor.

As for my car being peaky, not even remotely true. the rpm range is set for 3000-7500 for road racing. The cams are designed for a broader powerband versus a top end car.

Well your goals are for road racing and you have a sick build going for sure, but I'll wait til I see your torque curve on a dyno sheet.

 

[Ferocious]

Stay N/A. Unless you just want to be fast in a straight line and burn up all your money on boost. Suspension has a lot to do with speed and the fun factor. Buy a couple suspension parts also.
I can't stand when people blow all there money on HP. Then what? you have a fast car, but will it stop, turn, hell it will probably just break a weak stock part!

Do you plan on keeping the car for a while? If so, do it right.

Thanks for the advise. I will keep the car for probably another 3 years or so. I'm gonna keep it all through college, and then i really want to pick up a torch red new edge.
As far as suspension, i may get some goodies here and there, lower/upper control arms, new shocks/struts, the basic stuff...

My car is my daily driver, i'm not building it to race, to autocross, or nothing of that nature. I just want a moderately fun street car that can get me from point A to point B.

i don't know is 280 really that much of of a streach for a npi. na motor ? a lot of port work hi comp. , cams and all above .
my car is all stock other than a cai and exhaust . i have a guy in town with a dyno. i think i may pay the money and be depressed . LOL if i cry i will be a man and post the video.. lmfao

My car is stock other than cai & exhaust too and hell, i'd be happy if i took it to a dyno and put down at least 190rwph lol.

 

[SRT Handz]

Stop dicking around with silly bolt on mods and get one of these....

/Thread

 

[justinschmidt1]

i was saying LOTS of boost versus low boost with more efficient mods like port work etc. etc. make the same power with less boost, less stress on the motor.

I dont see what the difference is though?...if you have a built motor that can take it, who cares.

I would go whichever way is the most cost effective and obviously a pulley swap and e85 tune is A LOT cheaper than Heads and cams.

That edelbrock intake improves efficiency for me and made more power up top but it definately made the car more "peaky" than if I would have added boost and kept the pi intake.

 

[justinschmidt1]

Stop dicking around with silly bolt on mods and get one of these....

/Thread

I would agree if you didnt spend like what? 6k?

 

[Rice_slayer]

F*ck the rpm ranges, I look to get my car down the 1/4 mile the quickest way possible without needing a roll bar haha. I never got enough seat time in my old 5.0L, but racing this 4v is fricken awesome, I was cutting very consistant times with it, but the "rpm range" is way different, I was shifting at 5.6k with the old one, 6.5k with this motor. And are you serious you're only at 280rwhp madstang? Not saying that's bad or anything, but I thought you had more into that car?

 

[justinschmidt1]

Lol, the 4vs are awesome. I was shifting my buddys 600 rwhp kb termi at 7,000 rpms.

I shift my 2v at 6500 rpms from 2nd to 3rd right now lol

 

[SRT Handz]

I would agree if you didnt spend like what? 6k?

The blower was $4500 for EVERYTHING to install. No shipping cause i picked it up.

I added a bigger fuel system, a few gauges, spark plugs, coolant, new oil, an SCT XCal3 AND a Custom Dyno tune from RET and the cost was right at $6,000.

And just for the record, that is less than a brand new procharger kit cause my KB kit came with Intake, 75mmTB, 90mm LMAF, ect.

http://www.tobefast.com/procharger-mustang-gt-96-98-pr-10001392.html

 

[justinschmidt1]

The blower was $4500 for EVERYTHING to install. No shipping cause i picked it up.

I added a bigger fuel system, a few gauges, spark plugs, coolant, new oil, an SCT XCal3 AND a Custom Dyno tune from RET and the cost was right at $6,000.

And just for the record, that is less than a brand new procharger kit cause my KB kit came with Intake, 75mmTB, 90mm LMAF, ect.

lol, alright...just saying, the OP already said he was trying to spend like 3k at the most.

You got a nice kit but you can do a vortech with a used head unit pieced together for half that.

Procharger sucks.

You can buy a brand new v3 vortech kit for 2900

http://www.superchargersonline.com/...506_1105_1106_1180_1349_1351&products_id=6796

Just would have to piece together the injectors, fuel pump, and tune which could be done easily for less than 1k.

 

[Ferocious]

Stop dicking around with silly bolt on mods and get one of these....
/Thread

To be honest, i've read over your build thread a dozen times Handz. I was really impressed by the KB twin screw and the numbers you got running with your mild tune.
I also DD my car and don't want to push its limits. However, the kenne belle is a big buy for me. For that price, i'd rather just buy a new mustang..

ALSO,
Brett and Justin, after page 2 of my thread, i stopped reading what you guys had to say because it doesn't help me in the slightest way.
All this n/a vs. boost is gonna drive me fucking insane. lol take a chill pill guys...

 

[V8POWA!]

woah this thread got gnarly! I'm w/ you fer, I plan on doing what justin and 97stang did, and going boost. build the auto slightly and like a vortech kit or something can be found a a good price.

 

[SRT Handz]

lol, alright...just saying, the OP already said he was trying to spend like 3k at the most.

You got a nice kit but you can do a vortech with a used head unit pieced together for half that.

Procharger sucks.

Keyword you are using is "Used".

You are pretty much buying ghetto stuff to save money. I have been there, done that....

My Kenne Bell Kit and All my Extras I Bought BRAND NEW. Brand SPANKIN NEW..... With warranty and all.

So when you compare my set up and the purchase I made for the money I spent, you need to compare it to buying brand new everything. Look at my build thread. Crazy how i bought everything new lol. Its like the one thing in life I went 112% on purchasing the best stuff for that thing.