Blown car suspension?

[NCMystic]

this is what i was thinking, tell me what you think. open to advice, anticipating the higher hp. .

weld in upper and lower torque boxes
full length subframe connectors
crossmember
axle gurdle?
torque arm

looking to keep the suspension as cheap as possible, i'm looking at a lot of money in the blower build that i'm already too deep to turn back on now.
would like to keep ride height as close to stock as possible (willing to drop up to an inch and a half on front, rear must remain stock height)

i am open to any advice on what parts to get and what brand, keep in mind price is a major factor on this right now because it's really not the focus of the vehicle or invested money currently.

sort of a side line to keep anything from binding, twisting, tearing or snapping

 

[NCMystic]

also i'm amost positive i will not be able to use the stock strut tower brace.

i have seen termi strut braces i think by maximum motorsports but not sure on the brand of if they will fit over the blower and under mt 96 hood.

just a thought, as it will be removed i would like for that loss of rigidity to be compensated in some way to at least some extent

 

[MadStang]

find someone who can weld and make your own STB that goes around the blower.

 

[BigTang]

maybe something like this:

What are you wanting to use the car for?

consider welding the axle tubes while you're there.

what do you mean by "crossmember"?

 

[NCMystic]

i've seen what i am refering to as a "crossmember" as a piece that runs inbetween the subframe connectors to sort of brace them together

 

[NCMystic]

i've seen what i am refering to as a "crossmember" as a piece that runs inbetween the subframe connectors to sort of brace them together

as far as what i want out of the car, it is a street car that will see top speed competitions, a bit of road racing and daily driver duty.

as i said before this suspension plan as of now is not so focused on handling as much as not twisting, snapping, bending or tearing anything

 

[BigTang]

you're talking about the matrix type stuff from KB or stifflers.
I'd look into a good through the floor subframe connector that welds to the floor pan if you're really wanting some serious structure.

Rear girdle will help some but you'll tear up the 28 spline stuff on a good launch before you blow up the carrier or distort the housing. I suppose you could put a swarbar on the housing but its just to keep the tubes from flapping like wings on a hard launch, not something you'd probably be doing.

 

[NCMystic]

that's a good idea.

i was thinking about adjustable coilovers on the front but i don't know if i could buy just a set of rear springs. what rear springs would be optimal and keep stock height out back?

honestly i probably won't be launching TOO hard. if anything is key i want it to be stable at top speed but beefing up launch weak areas is not a bad idea at all.

as far as the through the pan subframes i'm not sure if that will work into the budget, i need quick install times on this stuff so shop labor rates don't brutalize my bank account immediately

the suspension will be an ongoing effort but i really just want to pin down what i really need to not tear up, twist or snap anything immediately after the blower install

 

[Dalamar]

torque arm, panhard rod and HD lower control arms would be best for traction on a supercharged application.
if your budget allows.

I put these on my car and the difference is amazing!

 

[MadStang]

torque arm, panhard rod and HD lower control arms would be best for traction on a supercharged application.
if your budget allows.

I put these on my car and the difference is amazing!

I'm in serious need of something, even just N/A the Roush has a tendency to kick the rear end around even on a slight corner at WOT....

 

[Dalamar]

you can't beat this combo. the stock 4-link setup is a joke. not to mention 30+ year old design. they sure got their $ out of those stamp machines at the factory.

you could possibly do a watts link instead of the panhard, but for the money the panhard is great to keep the axle centered at all times.

my buddy in Scottsdale put the same on his 02 Roush after driving mine.

 

[MadStang]

you can't beat this combo. the stock 4-link setup is a joke. not to mention 30+ year old design. they sure got their $ out of those stamp machines at the factory.

you could possibly do a watts link instead of the panhard, but for the money the panhard is great to keep the axle centered at all times.

my buddy in Scottsdale put the same on his 02 Roush after driving mine.

I'm thinking of running the Steeda 5-link mainly because of my side exit. I can get the welded in panhard and that thing wont be going anywhere lol

 

[NCMystic]

i'm looking at a set of kyb adjustable rear shocks and 4 springs for $150 right now. would those, weld in upper and lower torque boxes, full length sub fram connectors and possibly a torque arm be an alright starter setup?

 

[Dalamar]

with a TA you need a panhard because you remove the uppers, changing it from a crappy 4 link, to a correctly functioning 3-link.
the panhard needs to control the side to side.

 

[NCMystic]

gotcha, so with the addition of the panhard to above stated that would be an alright starter setup?

 

[Dalamar]

that will be an awesome setup, much better for launching, you'll stay straight when you dump the clutch, corner exit acceleration is better, and better overall rear traction. it feels much more stable and predictable. hard to explain.

if you get on maximummotorsports web site they go into more detail.

 

[amy98gt]

if your going to get a pair of sub frame connectors the best set is still the Kenny Brown Matrix system and the one just like it from Stifflers. tremendously reduces body roll and chassis flex

 

[NCMystic]

if your going to get a pair of sub frame connectors the best set is still the Kenny Brown Matrix system and the one just like it from Stifflers. tremendously reduces body roll and chassis flex

i'll look into that, thanks


thank you as well dalamar.