Bottom end is toast - Need Guidance

Freefallin · May 26, 2016

lwarrior1016 said:
Good job man. Im glad to see you got it out without killing yourself lol. When you tear this thing down, make sure to take a bunch of pictures and ask a lot of questions. Youll probably be intimidated by this engine at first but once you do it, youll realize just how easy it is.

Thanks man. Like I said, I have access to a buddy of mine who is a Master Ford Tech @ $40/hour so he will hopefully be helping me transfer everything back over to the new motor and will also help reinstall everything. How many hours do you think it will take to transfer everything over and reinstall in car?

Sean

lwarrior1016 · May 26, 2016

Freefallin said:
Thanks man. Like I said, I have access to a buddy of mine who is a Master Ford Tech @ $40/hour so he will hopefully be helping me transfer everything back over to the new motor and will also help reinstall everything. How many hours do you think it will take to transfer everything over and reinstall in car?

Sean

Im not too sure on an actual hour number. Is he going to charge you to do this? You dont NEED to pay for the help, you can do it yourself.

Freefallin · May 26, 2016

lwarrior1016 said:
Im not too sure on an actual hour number. Is he going to charge you to do this? You dont NEED to pay for the help, you can do it yourself.

Yes, he is going to charge me, as it's side work for him. I met him on account of paying him to time my SVT Focus a few months ago. SO "buddy" is more we're getting to know each-other but not really buddies lol. I am sure I could do it myself, but I have ZERO experience tearing down or more importantly, rebuilding a motor. The motor removal wasn't a huge deal because I had videos and writeups to go off, but not sure I am comfortable doing the rebuild myself. I guess all I would be doing is breaking down my motor and reinstalling everything on the new motor. Hmm...

Is there a book(s) I should purchase to do this myself or any other how-to's or guides I can use?

Sean

lwarrior1016 · May 26, 2016

Freefallin said:
Yes, he is going to charge me, as it's side work for him. I met him on account of paying him to time my SVT Focus a few months ago. SO "buddy" is more we're getting to know each-other but not really buddies lol. I am sure I could do it myself, but I have ZERO experience tearing down or more importantly, rebuilding a motor. The motor removal wasn't a huge deal because I had videos and writeups to go off, but not sure I am comfortable doing the rebuild myself. I guess all I would be doing is breaking down my motor and reinstalling everything on the new motor. Hmm...

Is there a book(s) I should purchase to do this myself or any other how-to's or guides I can use?

Sean

Well when you say breaking down yours and installing it on the new engine, what do you mean? If you are purchasing a used engine the biggest thing you may have to do is change the timing cover and thats very easy. If you are rebuilding your current engine, thats a different story.

There is a book that i just purchased from barnes and noble that is How to rebuild Ford 4.6/5.4 liter engines. Its shows everything you would need to know. Ill post a picture of it this evening.

Freefallin · May 26, 2016

lwarrior1016 said:
Well when you say breaking down yours and installing it on the new engine, what do you mean? If you are purchasing a used engine the biggest thing you may have to do is change the timing cover and thats very easy. If you are rebuilding your current engine, thats a different story.

There is a book that i just purchased from barnes and noble that is How to rebuild Ford 4.6/5.4 liter engines. Its shows everything you would need to know. Ill post a picture of it this evening.

I mean when I buy a used motor, I am going to swap over my heads, intake, cams, fuel rails, TB, Plenum, LT's, etc. Basically keeping my motor the same minus the blown up bottom end.

Sean

lwarrior1016 · May 26, 2016

Freefallin said:
I mean when I buy a used motor, I am going to swap over my heads, intake, cams, fuel rails, TB, Plenum, LT's, etc. Basically keeping my motor the same minus the blown up bottom end.

Sean

Is there anything special about your heads? If not, then there is no reason to disturb the heads on the new engine.

ScottyDsntKnow · May 26, 2016

Why would you change heads? Just swap timing covers and exhaust and roll. No need to pay anyone.

Freefallin · May 27, 2016

Well I have PI heads w/Comp Stage 1 blower cams so I was just going to swap over those things. And my Intake Manifold already has everything tapped into it so I was going to swap that also.

Sean

lwarrior1016 · May 27, 2016

Freefallin said:
Well I have PI heads w/Comp Stage 1 blower cams so I was just going to swap over those things. And my Intake Manifold already has everything tapped into it so I was going to swap that also.

Sean

Intake would be a good think to keep, and youll be able to swap your cams without pulling the heads off. Are you buying a PI engine?

Freefallin · May 27, 2016

lwarrior1016 said:
Intake would be a good think to keep, and youll be able to swap your cams without pulling the heads off. Are you buying a PI engine?

Are the post 99 Crown Vics and Towncars considered PI?

ScottyDsntKnow · May 27, 2016

No they didn't get them till after 01. Buy an 04+ to get the I thread spark plugs.

96blak54 · May 27, 2016

^ 8thread sparg plug holes ^

Like SDK stated. Choose an 04 -up 4.6l long block from vics, lincolns, mercs, econoline vans cause they revised the sparkplug hole with 8threads. The older engines had almost 5thread and are prone to popping out.....you dont want that! Any npi engine will work also, but youll kind of be going backwards in performance and install simplicity.

Freefallin · May 27, 2016

ScottyDsntKnow said:
No they didn't get them till after 01. Buy an 04+ to get the I thread spark plugs.

So if I find an 04+ Vic or TC motor I could potentially just keep those heads/cams and just swap over my intake and fuel rails? I am having a tough time deciding what to do. I feel like I should have my shortblock built with forged stuff because I wont realistically want to do this again.

I understand the most cost-effective route would be a used motor, but being able to throw some boost at it and make some serious power would be very fun. What would a safe, yet fairly high boost number be for the S Trim V1 so I don't over-spin it? 500 on pump gas should be a pretty attainable seeing I have the supporting fuel system and traction to handle it.

Sean

ScottyDsntKnow · May 28, 2016

Intakes are the same too. Just swap your plenum, headers, front cover and use Mustang accessories. I would not go over 10 psi without an intercooler. 425-450 at the wheels should hold for awhile if you don't overspin it and have a spot on tune.

Tbth I am going to get my car running with a JY motor but mine is 4v. 450rwhp is plenty fine for a street car on street tires. Especially a 4v that can keep pulling well past 6k RPM.

lwarrior1016 · May 28, 2016

2v can pull well past 6k.

ScottyDsntKnow · May 28, 2016

A stock motor will fall on its ass tho at that point compared to a 4v that'll keep building HP. But that's another thread.

Freefallin · May 30, 2016

I've got that big ass Edelbrock Vic Jr. intake with a massive plenum elbow to mate up to a 90mm Accufab TB. Does that setup make sense with 46lb injectors and my setup? I am just wondering if I should just run the stock intake and that BBK 78mm combo tb/plenum...

Running to the hardware store to grab some longer bolts to attach the engine to the engine stand. Getting closer and closer!

Sean

ScottyDsntKnow · May 30, 2016

That's probably overkill and youll lose low end while not really being able to use the top end with the stock heads and cams. I mean if you have it... But id run the stock intake tbth.

Freefallin · May 31, 2016

ScottyDsntKnow said:
That's probably overkill and youll lose low end while not really being able to use the top end with the stock heads and cams. I mean if you have it... But id run the stock intake tbth.

I was kind of thinking the same thing. However, this intake has all of the supporting fuel line stuff already tapped into it and I really didnt want to have to swap everything over. This means I would need to also get a different TB/Plenum also.

For what it's worth, the car supposedly has Comp Stage 1 blower cams with PI heads also, so not sure if this gives you anymore info for that intake/tb setup. I am really just looking for some advice here. If I forge the bottom on as initially planned and put 12+ psi into the motor, I assume this setup would be good, correct? Someone pick apart my current setup and let me know what parts I should keep if I decide to run a stock bottom end.

Here is the intake and fuel rails currently on the car:
https://lmr.com/item/EDL-28385-K/eb-EFI-Intake-Manifold-Fuel-Rail-Kit-46L-2V-mustang-99-04

Here is the TB on the car:
https://lmr.com/item/AF-F90/1986-93-Mustang-50L-90Mm-Polished-Accufab-Throttle-Body

This appears to be nearly the same plenum the car has, but mine could be a little taller:
https://lmr.com/item/EDL-3847/edelbrock-low-pro-throttle-body-intake-elbow-mustang-99-04

Sean

Freefallin · May 31, 2016

Gents, this seems like a good deal on some forged Manley pistons...$350 OBO. Can someone tell me if these are the same as the street masters or different? Any issues with running used pistons if they are still in good shape?

http://forums.corral.net/forums/modular-engine-parts/2260489-manley-platinum-series-pistons.html