Brake bleeding

J_lope82

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One thing I did see while bleeding is that the rear bleed fittings were plugged up with rust. I had to remove them and poke them with a pick and then blast them with brake cleaner. After that they started to bleed out the fluid.
 
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apsmith49921

apsmith49921

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Yeah I did have that issue but I cleaned them. I've got the new bleeder so I'll give it a shot
 
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apsmith49921

apsmith49921

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Gave the air bleeder a shot it seemed to help. Sometime this weekend I might try and get the abs to kick on and see if that helps
 
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apsmith49921

apsmith49921

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Update on this. Tried getting the abs to work and it will not activate because it has a code. Found out it has a code for right rear sensor. 90 bucks for a sensor or 90 bucks for an abs delete. Simple question to answer
 
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apsmith49921

apsmith49921

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I opted for the delete. Tbf there hasn't been any bleeding at all. Pedal goes straight to the floor. Also this new compressor powered bleeder is amazing so gives me a chance to get a good bleed on it
 

lwarrior1016

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That’s why I was suggesting to open a front and rear blender with the mc cap off. It allows the master to cycle completely without restricting fluid movement.

I just had an opportunity to use this bleeding method on a car here at work. It works great and too about 15 minutes to bleed a bone dry, brand new system
 

ttocs

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yea I was struggling with mine as well a couple of years back. Same thing that no matter how many times we bled them that the pedal was still just mush until I got the same kit.
 

maillemaker

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I don't know if the Mustangs are similar, but my 1990 E350 van(RV) has a RABS module. Evidently if you get air in them you have to cause the module to cycle while pressing the brake to force the air out of the RABS module. A fellow made a pigtail and alternated +12V to two terminals while stepping on the brake and it allows the air/fluid to return to the reservoir when the peddle is pressed.

I was reading about this because my E350 pedal has been spongy since I let a shop to repair work on the brakes. I suspect they got air into the RABS system.
 

Randy Hayes

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Where did you end up on this, I'm having the same issue on a 04 Coyote swap with the hydroboost, no matter how I bleed them or how many times I bleed them the pedal is going all the way to the floor. Bought the car with this way and just started a new post on this subject with more detail if you're interested.
 

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cobrajeff96

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Where did you end up on this, I'm having the same issue on a 04 Coyote swap with the hydroboost, no matter how I bleed them or how many times I bleed them the pedal is going all the way to the floor. Bought the car with this way and just started a new post on this subject with more detail if you're interested.
What kind of brakes are on the car?
 

Randy Hayes

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Hello, they're Stoptech in the front and not sure on the rear I'm thinking red painted Cobra or GT. Thanks Randy
 

cobrajeff96

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I'm betting that it's not fully bled. There's air in those front calipers because most people forget that big brakes have bleeder screws on both halves.
 

ttocs

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if the brake calipers have been changed you might want to check and make sure the bleeder valves are facing up. If they put them on the wrong side and then bled them while on the car, the bleeder valve faces down and will still catch a bubble right there.
 

Shocker6

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I had the same problem as the OP a couple of weeks ago. I was going absolutely INSANE trying everything mentioned in this thread. And I mean to a T
Turns out the bleed sequence is the exact opposite. At least on my 98 svt. Drivers side front 1st, passenger front 2nd, rear drivers side 3rd, etc. And that was it.
 

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