Brake bleeding

joemomma

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Getting ready to replace the front calipers on my '94 with Cobra parts....so what's the correct order to bleed? I'm planning to flush all the fluid while I'm doing it, it likely has never been done.
 

ctandc

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Furthest to nearest.
If you have an air compressor do yourself a favor and buy a bleeder setup. You can get 'em for under $50. If not, get a Mity Vac and prepare for a wrist / grip workout.
 

cobrajeff96

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I've never had a bad brake bleed with:

Passenger rear >>> driver rear >>> passenger front >>> driver front. And if the Master Cylinder was replaced or a line cracked open very close to it (or between ABS and master) then the stock m/c should also have bleeders on it and will also need to be purged.
 

joemomma

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I'll also be replacing the hoses with stainless for the new calipers - I'm guessing this is very straight-forward?
 

Shocker6

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I've never had a bad brake bleed with:

Passenger rear >>> driver rear >>> passenger front >>> driver front. And if the Master Cylinder was replaced or a line cracked open very close to it (or between ABS and master) then the stock m/c should also have bleeders on it and will also need to be purged.
I did that and it didnt work. My buddy brought his snapon scanner and it said the exact opposite
 

96blak54

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All great info ^

Only info i can offer is to keep the brake reservoir full. It drains quick. Letting it drop low of fluide only causes more work.
 

ctandc

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All great info ^

Only info i can offer is to keep the brake reservoir full. It drains quick. Letting it drop low of fluide only causes more work.

That's the best part about the bleeders that hook up to the air compressor. The 'kit' comes with a bottle for fresh brake fluid, with a valve and a bunch of plastic adapters that screw on the top of the bottle so you can invert the bottle of fresh fluid, valve closed, the adapter lets it sit in the reservoir, once you open the valve it automatically lets fluid go into the reservoir as your bleeding different calipers.
 

cobrajeff96

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I did that and it didnt work. My buddy brought his snapon scanner and it said the exact opposite
Strange. My old ass Haynes manual that I bought way back in '04 specifically details it this way and that's what I've always used since. Never failed me. 1996 Cobra with ABS.
 

lwarrior1016

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I found with the newer stuff and using a scan tool, they want closest first. So you’re not trapping air upstream and possibly pushing air toward the rear after you’ve already bled it.

I spoke with wilwood and they told me to open the master cylinder, open a front and rear bleeder and push the pedal all the way to the floor in a smooth motion. Hold the pedal down and have someone tighten the bleeders. Release the pedal, open the bleeders and repeat. Don’t let the master go dry. Do one side a couple times then move to the other.

This allows the master to move completely through its travel without resistance and you start moving fluid instead of trying to compress air.
 

highplace11

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I'll add that I have had the exact same issue with 2 traction control SN95 cars and the fix was simply in my case using a self brake bleed (no vacuum) and doing the two bleeders on the master cylinder with it installed... Closest to firewall first (physically lowest for air pockets), and the second (closest to the front of the car) last bleeding just like the calipers... PEDAL GOES ROCK HARD... I also rebled the calipers to be safe BUT honestly don't think it was required besides peace of mind and some more cursing over it hahahahahahahahaha!!!...

Remember the gas pedal on the right is the one that belongs on the floor... :):):):)

God bless,

highplace11
 

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