Car Cranks but no fuel pump prime and no power to injectors.

[ctspoolintsi]

also i dont understand how can it be my ccrm when it wasnt even in the car when it sparked

 

[ttocs]

on the 93 at least the inertia switch get its power from the EEC relay, and then that feeds the fuel pump.

https://sites.google.com/site/sn95mustangs/tech-info/94-95-ccrm

Some EEC relay diagnostics: If it seems like none of the EEC systems are receiving power (underhood solenoids, fuel injectors, etc), here’s a place to look. First check the PCM/CCRM fuse in the underhood fuse box (20 amps). Also check the ignition switch fuses.
At the CCRM (Constant Control Relay Module – the black box mounted on the radiator overflow bracket): With the key turned to run, check Pin 12 and 24 for accessory power. If it’s there, the issue lies past the CCRM. If there’s no power: Check CCRM Pins 8 and 10 for constant 12 volts. Check CCRM Pin 13 for accessory 12 volts. Check CCRM Pin 15 for ground. If 8, 10, 13 and 15 are present (this requires the key to be on), but 12 and 24 are not showing 12 volts, that suggests a bad EEC relay inside the CCRM.
Fuel pump relay diagnostics:First, always check the inertia switch in the trunk and the fuel pump fuse in the underhood fuse box (20 amps). Also check the ignition switch fuses. With the key turned to run and checking within the fuel pump prime-out period (a duration of 2-5 seconds after turning the key to run): Check CCRM pin 5 for accessory 12 volts. If you have it, the issue lies downstream. If not: Check CCRM Pin 11 for constant 12 volts. Check CCRM Pin 13 for accessory 12 volts. Check CCRM Pin 18 for a ground signal during the prime-out.
If this is all good, check the inertia switch (located in the driver side trunk, adjacent the tail light) and fuel pump electrical connector at the tank.

 

[ttocs]

Run these tests above and it will help to narrow it down. The eec relay powers the switch and pump relay and its inside of the CCRM. After the tests you will probably pull the ccrm and take the cover off to see what ya see. Fusable links that are blown are easy to find. if the relay is bad then that is not hard to test either.

 

[ttocs]

also i dont understand how can it be my ccrm when it wasnt even in the car when it sparked

I missed this part. give me a few to trace down where it gets it power from and it should be right there.

 

[ctspoolintsi]

but power is going into the ccrm . the red with green stripe wire, any idea what wire is power coming out ?

 

[ttocs]

Check pins 3 and 4 black and orange wires should have 12v constant(no key needed) should have 12v on them
Check pins 8 and 10 and 11 all yellow wires and should have 12v constant on them

If we are missing power on one of these we found our problem.

 

[ctspoolintsi]

thanks alot i will check right when i get back from lunch

 

[ttocs]

those wires are all powered by the hood fuse box so unless you missed on up there or possibly cut/clipped/pinched a wire they should all be good. They are powered by the 60 fan fuse, 20 amp eec fuse and a 20 amp fuel pump.

 

[ctspoolintsi]

ok i jumped couple of the connectors inside the ccrm plug and got the fan to turn on , injectors to click, and heard couple other things go on . i took the ccrm apart and found this. does it look bad .

My friend is out of town and told me to test for continuity . i defiantly don't belong behind a multimeter but he instructed me what to do the best he could over the phone . with the battery ground disconnected i tested the pins and some had readings while the others were solid 1 and did nothing . these had different readings pin 1 - 2 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 11 - 13 - 15 . idk what to do with that info yet hes going to call me later. but figured maybe someone might be able to notice something quick.

 

[ctspoolintsi]

https://sites.google.com/site/sn95mustangs/tech-info/94-95-ccrm

 

[justinschmidt1]

If you have power going in to the thing and not out that would mean the relay is bad I would think?

 

[ctspoolintsi]

but my issue with that is the dam thing wasnt even near the car when this happened lol . i just dont want to get a new one and blow that to. im trying to read that wiring diagram and see what is suspose to be ground but i cant see it good

 

[ttocs]

did you test for voltage on the pins I listed above?

 

[ttocs]

also check for ground on pin 15 black with a white stripe.

 

[ctspoolintsi]

8 and 10 are the only ones without power . tried with key on and off. rest have power. and 15 came up with continuity so tat should be a ground correct ?

 

[ctspoolintsi]

if this helps any i now have megasquirt 2 in my car . dont know if that will change anything on the out come of all this. stock ecu didnt work eaither. pin 8 is cooling fan + and 10 is ecu power +

 

[ttocs]

both of those are constant power and are powered by the underhoood fusebox with the 20 amp fuel pump fuse and the 20 amp eec fuse. I know you pulled them and looked at them but pull those two out and test them with your meter. Set the meter to continuity again and touch both blades of the fuses and it should beep or show that there is contact there.

 

[ctspoolintsi]

excuse my language but **** YES it finally runs. i feel stupid it was a under the hood fuse the whole time . i could no way tell it was blown in till i tested it then i pulled it and it was a clean snap with no black marks on the ecc fuse. i don't have a fuse on my so i jumped it with a wire quick and car fired right up . so now in morning ill get correct fuse and finish putting it back together so happy lol . THANK YOU EVERY ONE esp ttocs .

 

[ttocs]

ah freakin sweet man! Was hoping it was something stupid and easy. That situation are always happy and sad as you realize its running, but could have been yesterday there has only been a few times were I had a fuse that looked perfect, and it was, perfectly blown....

Glad to help. wonder how hard it would be to start a database here to put those schematics on in case they dry up there. Maybe [MENTION=17876]deeplist[/MENTION] maybe can help us?

 

[DeepList]

Glad to help. wonder how hard it would be to start a database here to put those schematics on in case they dry up there. Maybe deeplist maybe can help us?

Sounds like a good idea and wouldn't be too hard at all. I did something similar with the manuals for old GE and Ericsson radio equipment.