Chasing an Electrical Gremlin...

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MadStang

MadStang

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I'm about to throw in the towel and take it to a shop. I'm tired of dealing with the problem...
 

g36 monkey

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I don't think any less of anyone for taking something to a shop. Sometimes shop see things we don't.
 

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Have you pulled fuses until the drain stopped and at least isolated it to one circuit? This takes 15-20 minutes and eliminates 90% of the possibilities.
 

framda

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Okay problem is not the Alternator or Battery. My OEM spare is in the car and it's still got the battery drain... Whats funny is the car is perfectly fine when it's running, but if it sits for any extended period of time it just poops itself out. Any ideas?
^^
 
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MadStang

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Update: for shits and giggles I put the multimeter on the car before I started it this morning. 12.4V's read. then when I went to attempt to start it, it tried then nothing. went to check voltage to battery, just after a crank the voltage dropped down to around 7V's.... possible short to the starter? or is the battery just not able to handle the amperage of cranking this car?
 
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MadStang

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okay, battery checks out good but I do want to point out I'm an electrical idiot. when I thought I was reading amps I was actually reading voltage. ugh.

now that I've got that figured out I'm going to get on reading DCA and will start reading results. if there's an issue I'll pull fuses and find what's up.
 

g36 monkey

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Ha, you da man Brett ;p

We can track it down. Do the same test again with volts, unless thats what you were saying you already did.
 
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MadStang

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blew 3 fuses in the multimeter. it's drawing WAY too much mA for my multimeter to handle. recommendations?
 
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MadStang

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For shit's and giggles I kept it on DCV, pulled fuses, got a major voltage drop between Positive lead and Positive Terminal. 12.5v down to 11v from removing the Radio Fuse (25A fuse).
 

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what is the max current rating on the meter? It will normally have one or two different settings to allow for low/high current needs and there should be no reason you are pulling enough current to blow a fuse if its connected correctly. Measuring voltage while connected in series will not really tell you much, no idea why your voltage would have dropped removing a fuse. If that circuit as bad it should have gone up not down.
 
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MadStang

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what is the max current rating on the meter? It will normally have one or two different settings to allow for low/high current needs and there should be no reason you are pulling enough current to blow a fuse if its connected correctly. Measuring voltage while connected in series will not really tell you much, no idea why your voltage would have dropped removing a fuse. If that circuit as bad it should have gone up not down.

max is 500mA. both my good meter and spare meter shorted out.

as for the voltage I dunno, but looking behind the dash at the Radio hook ups for my alpine, there's just a lot of uncovered severed wires....
 

ttocs

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there should NEVER be ANY copper showing on any wire or connection. If you can see it, it can ground out. Start there and also look to see if you have a factory amp under the deck.
 
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MadStang

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there should NEVER be ANY copper showing on any wire or connection. If you can see it, it can ground out. Start there and also look to see if you have a factory amp under the deck.

ill check, I'm turning in for the night since I've been up since 330. also gonna see if I can get a cheap multimeter that reads amps. all mine only read mA. only thing I don't want to do is have to pull out my damn radio, I don't have the clip tools to do it and it's a huge hassle. if the radio is found to be faulty ill force the shop that did the work to repair it.
 

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If you had a shop install it and there are wires showing, take it back and tell them to fix it.....
 
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MadStang

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bought a new multimeter that reads 20A.

with the radio fuse in it pulls .28-.30A

with it removed .12-.13A

safe to say its the radio?
 
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MadStang

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the .12-.13 is coming from the GEM (General Electronics module) circuit. dropped to zero when I pulled the 5A fuse.
 
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MadStang

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Called the Audio Shop I had the radio installed at two years ago. They are covering any and all costs to repair the draw so long as it's not the head unit itself that's the issue (they cant warrant the part just the labor). Taking it in tomorrow and letting them do the work... Also switching my tune to the valet tune so they can't go above 2500rpms lmao.
 

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