Defiant's "Nightmare" Build Thread
- Thread starter Defiant
- Start date
g36 monkey
Post Whore
That wiring is a hot mess! Glad you were able to get that monster out of there though. I am not a fan of subs so big that you lose all of your reasonable storage space.
I like the small ones that tuck away to the sides behind each tail light. Clean, lightweight, and provide enough bass for me. I really don't need a system this powerful, I always set it to -15 anyway.
So I began ripping the wiring out
the guy who wired this all up spliced into the factory harness....faceplam. Metra harnesses are dirt cheap why why why why!!! D:<
also all the connections use these stupid twist caps
I cut the wiring from the sub that goes to the front speakers and cleaned it up some
the guy who wired it also put the radio power directly to the under-hood fuse box for some reason. I wired it back to stock and replaced the blown 10a radio fuse. Now I got power!
Still left to do: order metra harness, wire in rear speakers, find out why my drivers front speaker isn't working, and remove the crap from the trunk once and for all.
Oh I also weighed the stuff:
-Sub box 60 lbs
-Subwoofer 12lbs (each)
-Amps 11lbs (each)
-Misc wiring, capacitor, etc (5-10?)
Didnt weigh the spare tire I figure that's about 15. Solid 120lbs off the rear of the car. Might remove the dog bone thing on the diff too.
So I began ripping the wiring out
the guy who wired this all up spliced into the factory harness....faceplam. Metra harnesses are dirt cheap why why why why!!! D:<
also all the connections use these stupid twist caps
I cut the wiring from the sub that goes to the front speakers and cleaned it up some
the guy who wired it also put the radio power directly to the under-hood fuse box for some reason. I wired it back to stock and replaced the blown 10a radio fuse. Now I got power!
Still left to do: order metra harness, wire in rear speakers, find out why my drivers front speaker isn't working, and remove the crap from the trunk once and for all.
Oh I also weighed the stuff:
-Sub box 60 lbs
-Subwoofer 12lbs (each)
-Amps 11lbs (each)
-Misc wiring, capacitor, etc (5-10?)
Didnt weigh the spare tire I figure that's about 15. Solid 120lbs off the rear of the car. Might remove the dog bone thing on the diff too.
Removing the old shifter... two of the bolts holding the cover plate rusted in and broke the threaded clips. I couldn't remove the bolts they were just spinning in place. Had to bend it..
old shifter out with some persuasion
Surface cleaned up and new pivot cup installed
Steeda Tri-Ax in place and torqued, loctited, and with shift stops set.
Piece of crap cover plate hammered back into a.. shape LOL
All assembled... I even installed a new shift boot
wow.. THIRD GEAR EXISTS NOW. It used to just vaguely appear time to time. The centering spring is really nice, my stock spring was definitely on its way out, it sometimes wouldn't even go back to center.
old shifter out with some persuasion
Surface cleaned up and new pivot cup installed
Steeda Tri-Ax in place and torqued, loctited, and with shift stops set.
Piece of crap cover plate hammered back into a.. shape LOL
All assembled... I even installed a new shift boot
wow.. THIRD GEAR EXISTS NOW. It used to just vaguely appear time to time. The centering spring is really nice, my stock spring was definitely on its way out, it sometimes wouldn't even go back to center.
Ive been having problems with my odometer randomly shutting off so I pulled the cluster out
After opening it up I checked the board and found the cracked solder connection
Not the prettiest soldering job but it should hold
Bought new aqua colored LED bulbs for the cluster
all installed
Everything seems to work ok
https://imger.co/images/2017/08/30/OZ4Zr.jpg[/
Testing the new bulbs. There are hotspots but it's generally Ok
[img]https://imger.co/images/2017/08/30/OZ7Oe.jpg
After opening it up I checked the board and found the cracked solder connection
Not the prettiest soldering job but it should hold
Bought new aqua colored LED bulbs for the cluster
all installed
Everything seems to work ok
https://imger.co/images/2017/08/30/OZ4Zr.jpg[/
Testing the new bulbs. There are hotspots but it's generally Ok
[img]https://imger.co/images/2017/08/30/OZ7Oe.jpg
Does anybody know why my traction control isn't working? After I changed the shifter it stopped working which I assume is from unplugging the Tc switch connector.
I checked the connector multiple times and all the fuses. Abs works everything works. When I push the TC switch it no longer lights up "off". I now just have no TC at all.
I checked the connector multiple times and all the fuses. Abs works everything works. When I push the TC switch it no longer lights up "off". I now just have no TC at all.
What is this traction control you speak of?!?
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Uhm.....i would think no traction control to be a positive! But thats me.
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RedTwilight
Active Member
Traction Control?? I thought that's what the right pedal was for!
Traction Control?? I thought that's what the right pedal was for!
Hahahahahahahaha!!! Im so stealing that meme!!! Lmfao
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Save yourself the money for something you'll actually use!!!!
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Ok I removed all the final wiring and amps. I think the system had 6 ground connections in total. A bit excessive imo.
vacuumed up mouse poop! There was a glue trap and mouse poop in the car. I don't think there's any mice in it currently tho. The trunk doesn't smell like ass anymore after cleaning
vacuumed up mouse poop! There was a glue trap and mouse poop in the car. I don't think there's any mice in it currently tho. The trunk doesn't smell like ass anymore after cleaning
Changed out my fuel filter because I don't know how old the one is on the car
old
new
I didn't put the clamp back on since I don't think that's factory Ford?
Car seems to run smoother though, idled better, no more part throttle jutter. Tonight is a cool night so I took it for some full throttle runs and it surprised me a little. These 3.27s are tall but the thing still torques hard and shoved me into the seat. It really really really likes the colder air.
old
new
I didn't put the clamp back on since I don't think that's factory Ford?
Car seems to run smoother though, idled better, no more part throttle jutter. Tonight is a cool night so I took it for some full throttle runs and it surprised me a little. These 3.27s are tall but the thing still torques hard and shoved me into the seat. It really really really likes the colder air.
Boost always likes colder air. Throw some meth at it and really see how it likes it.
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Yeah, this blower gets HOT. It's common for people to swap in better intercoolers but the damn thing is $800 by itself. People have gained 45whp from that alone though. I believe LFP makes a nice coolant tank that holds a larger capacity, I might do that in the near future.
ttocs
Forum's #1 poster
I just switched from a snow meth kit to a holley system. You might need some small parts like line/hose and the pump would be the only big part but I have the controller/nozzle/tank for sale if your interested pm me an offer.
The clamp is there from the factory. At least on both of my 97's it was.
Good to know. The filter in there was a purolator and in some photos I didn't see a clamp so I assumed it wasn't factory, it was rusty anyway so I'll just put a brand new one on.
This morning I repaired my rear speakers, the psycho cut off the factory harness so I had to rewire that underneath the rear windshield. Pain in the ass but they work now! Some people belong no where near electronics
This morning I repaired my rear speakers, the psycho cut off the factory harness so I had to rewire that underneath the rear windshield. Pain in the ass but they work now! Some people belong no where near electronics
