Don't Do This Build

OLD H2S · Apr 8, 2018

I changed out the Melling oil pump today, the 3V WAP block runs a big oil dump cut on the backing plate that holds the rear seal that is at the end of the main oil. The 3V oil pump are higher flow for the VVT system that starts to work at a low RPM, so I switched back to the 3V Hurricane pump and I have higher pressure now and 20 PSI at 850RPM with the cut bleeding off pressure at idle. I have run a solid backing plate before, and the oil pressure is too high running and at idle without the cut. There is a reason Ford puts all these hidden design improvements in and we see a shiny new part that is the hotter faster, lighter and we do not understand the WHY was it done that way in the first place. Don't do this.

lwarrior1016 · Apr 9, 2018

Tom, is there any way you could show me this cut in the backing plate? Also, what are you saying is too much oil pressure? Im running the 3v oil pump and it makes about 25psi at idle but will swing all the way to 100psi when the rpm is up.

OLD H2S · Apr 9, 2018

That sounds normal. I am running the 3V plate now so no pics but I will post other plates.

OLD H2S · Apr 9, 2018

This is the stock '96 backing plate and rear main seal holder.

Here is the contact spot for the rear oil gallery. On the 2V it is small = 3/8" and plugged. You must remove this plug when rebuilding to get to clean out the main oil gallery of junk.

On the 3V backing plate the oil gallery is bigger = 1/2" and this spot on the backing plate has a 1/8" slot cut in and running down to the bottom edge. The oil gallery doesn't have a plug in it so the 1/8" cut acts like a oil dump back down to the oil pan. WHY? Because the 3V uses VVT and that runs on oil pressure, more oil volume is needed too so Ford put 13mm wide gears in the oil pump and a bigger oil pick up pipe going to the oil pan for more oil volume going through the engine. But too much oil pressure at idle hurts MPG so Ford put the oil pressure relief cut at the back of the oil gallery to bleed off pressure and put less strain on the engine. Will and me are coming in at 20-25 PSI at idle and BIG pressure when running the RPM up.

Here is a stock '96 iron block, right at 12' you see the little 3/8" plug in the back of the oil gallery. The 3V WAP block the hole is much bigger and with the cut in the backing plate bleeds off oil pressure, but you must use a 3V type oil pump that has gears that are bigger than the nPI style.

This is the Melling 10227 pump, it has the big 15/16 intake hole for the big pick up pipe and 13mm wide gears not 12mm gears, BUT the gear set is the small diameter nPI size not the large diameter in the 3V pump, I did not know this and no adds have ALL the specks listed, not even the Melling web site. The result is lower oil pressure unless used in a block with the oil gallery plugged. I had 40PSI running this pump in a WAP block, It was OK but not great. Do not follow this build!

OLD H2S · May 17, 2018

So here I am a month later and the the 3V WAP engine is running fine, 10.4 CR is low and with Trick flow 38cc heads and 270 duration cams with .570 lift I made 312RWHP. All is good but the forged JE pistons are noisy when cold. I have the iron nPI block sitting here and it needs to be honed but I can not find anyone with Ford torque plates. L&M Engines is up in Philly 3 hours away. I have stock 3V heads around and the ported nPI heads that could use some more work =$$$ to beat the Trick Flows. Iron block, flat top pistons, 3V heads, locked out VVT, lots of cam choices....
Thomas where are you? The cams have 4 tab plates on the front, will the 2v cam pick up work on the 3V cam tabs?