eBay Twin turbo kit

[Simple Six]

Hello everyone

It’s been a while since I posted on my 1996 v6 project. Winter set in where I live plus I’ve had some supply chain issues with other parts.
So I decided to buy the eBay twin turbo kit ironically no supply chain issues arrived in three days. I’m
In the process of unpacking. Here’s some picks of the unpacking. Only one box slightly crushed.

 

[PinkieT]

Looks like a fun project!

 

[98snakehorse]

I love these. Looking forward to see where this journey takes you. My hopes are high but my expectations are low lol.

 

[96blak54]

AAAAHHHH SNAP!

I BE WATCHIN THIS ONE!!

 

[Simple Six]

The unpacking is done, my overall impression are they put the money into the exhaust manifolds, down pipes and intercooler. Some would say the intercooler is small but it appears to be well made. The turbos seem ok for the money. The boost regulator, fuel regulator, turbo cooler module, cooling fan, boost gauge and blow off valve in my opinion should be upgraded over time or failure but you’ll have everything plumbed in and wired up when replacement becomes necessary so it won’t require much time. Intercooler pipes are on the thin side compared to the mishimoto charges pipes I put on my 2019 eco boost mustang. The couplers are on the cheap side but again you’ll get everything plumbed in so you can upgrade later or failure.
The oil returns lines, oil catch can and battery relocation kit seem to be good pieces. Lastly everything was well packaged.

 

[98snakehorse]

I havnt seen a turbo timer in a very long time.

 

[LEGALLYFAST]

How is this coming along?

 

[Simple Six]

So far I've cut the power steering section off the mount and left the altenater section to make room for the turbo with the battery relocated in the trunk that will give me enough room on the driver side. I'm trying to figure out where I can relocate the power steering pump. I cut off the idler pulley section on the bottom of air conditioning mount to possibly relocate the power steering pump below the A/C compressor its a tight fit but it looks like it will work. With the factory airbox out of the way it looks like there will be enough room for the other turbo on the passenger side and keep the A/C. So it's been a lot of cutting grinding and using cheap sheet metal to fabricate a pattern for a new mount for the power steering pump.

It is possible I may not use the exhaust manifolds that came with the kit simply because it maybe more favorable to locate the turbos exactly where I want it and simply route the exhaust to the turbos.

If you don't care about A/C or power steering or how it all looks yeah you can make work.

I'm also trying to figure out routing the exhaust to the back of the car I know some people dump the exhaust through the side of the front bumper cover I'm not going to do that because part of goal with this build is to make it look factory plus with no cats, no muffler its just asking for traffic stop.

Between all that I've installed all new complete brake lines in the process of finishing the e-brake cables. I'm converting the car from automatic to a manual so I was able to get all the parts and got the pedals in with console off to do the e-brake I have to make the transmission tunnel shifter hole a little larger and mount the manual plate.

New gas tank and fuel lines are in stalled. However I did have a problem with the new fuel pump mount the 1994-1997 mustangs have a 3/8th size on the mount for the feed the return is a 1/4in the one NAPA gave for a 1996 was the wrong size it had a smaller feed size. The new fuel pump mount I ordered is on the way from LMR.

One of the big problems I've had is waiting for parts I'm currently waiting on roller rockers that I ordered back in December, also had to wait on fuel line mounts and the various items.

I need to make custom length spark plug wires as well because with the f150 upper manifold combo I'm using either the f150 are too long or the mustangs are to short.

I got my fuel rails and fittings all done I purchased everything from Racetronix it was one stop shopping if you want to do a DIY fuel injection rails. A lot of people just hack together the single port/split port factory fuel rails but again I'm going for the factor look.

Anyway working on the car itself, the engine, the turbo stuff and the transmission its getting there plus winter is over so I can work out in the garage again, comfortably anyway.

 

[ttocs]

rockers ordered in dec? Man that sucks but keep pluggin away and let us know how it goes good or bad.

 

[Simple Six]

rockers ordered in dec? Man that sucks but keep pluggin away and let us know how it goes good or bad.

Rocker arms finally came in several days ago, It was recommended to soak them in zink and oil.
So I got them soaking for a few days to get them ready along with the roller lifters to assemble the heads on the engine.
Bolting the cylinder heads on according to the manual has a multi step torque process then having you loosen the bolts, then re torque the bolts.
Does anybody know if this is necessary ? If so I will follow the torque steps. I'm using new OEM replacement bolts.
I replaced the brake vacuum booster so all I have to do now is bleed the brakes and the brakes will be 100% done.
Gas tank, fuel pump and fuel lines 100% done
Installed the clutch cable through the fire wall and on the clutch quadrant.
Installing the clutch and brake pedal was not fun hanging upside down under the dash like bat in a cave. You don't have to remove the steering column but you do have to remove the clutch quadrant to get the pedals in.

 

[LEGALLYFAST]

I use ARP head bolts or studs at times and I don’t recall that being a method I have ever done, but are the bolts you are using stretch to yield? That might be necessary for those. Do the bolts come with instructions?