KidK9
Well-Known Member
Arent you kinda like one of these baby daddy's with a crappy car that can't get it to run and lives in the ghetto??
explorer swap, then blown trans,now what !
- Thread starter FrankenStang
- Start date
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FrankenStang
Well-Known Member
lol, I have 2 kids by females, a girl and a woman..Im married to the woman and where we live is far from ghetto...My car may suck rite now but give it some time, and btw I do own have plenty of assets that I don't need to mention..all you need to know is that my car comes last on the list of priorities even though it is on the top of my list for enjoyment..Dont you think id like to just say FK it and let a thing or two go for a month and get a new trans and warranty in it??? I could go do it tomorrow but for something for my enjoyment to take up that amount of money rite now when it could be put in so many better places would be stupid.
Soooo, that leaves me in the situation im in, I put up an extra 50 amonth here to get a garage to work on it in and I wouldn't mind the 1st hand experience. im just new to this whole trans thing and I sound like a broken record when saying this to you, but ive covered all the options you guys agve me and looked into them to the best of my ability.
Now it leades me to this:
trans and tailshafts that I can use directly with maby the changing of the shift lever on the trans...vic,mustag,f150,marquese,thunderbird sc....I wont opt for a weaker aod with the 1.5in od band and weaker internal clutches...I also opt to find a mustang due to the governer limits and shift points...I read the vic shifts at 4200 at wot...lol no powerband.
Sooooooooooooooo my hunt begins for the rite trans and ille be starting to pull my old one out this Friday...
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FrankenStang
Well-Known Member
well, early start.....im positive now the 2k rpm in park is a limiter because when I took the car to the garage o\I took her for a spin and since I drained some fluid out it shifted fine from 1st to 2nd and that as fast as I had it but no reverse still..
I used some ZEP on all the bolts after I got the car on jacks and then I sat around and smoked a few cigs. I pulled the trans pan to drain it and see in the pic how much sludge was in the bottom and it smelth like a wildfire..Then I got the exhaust studs with no problem actually which is a 1st on any car ive ever worked on and took off a few of the braces underneath...only worked at it for about an hour and half and I think getting this trans out is gonna be pretty easy. Friday im going to go after the drive shaft which requires me to lower my gastank a few inches so I can slide it out and ille probly end up getting at the trans its self if not have it out by the end of Friday night...
I used some ZEP on all the bolts after I got the car on jacks and then I sat around and smoked a few cigs. I pulled the trans pan to drain it and see in the pic how much sludge was in the bottom and it smelth like a wildfire..Then I got the exhaust studs with no problem actually which is a 1st on any car ive ever worked on and took off a few of the braces underneath...only worked at it for about an hour and half and I think getting this trans out is gonna be pretty easy. Friday im going to go after the drive shaft which requires me to lower my gastank a few inches so I can slide it out and ille probly end up getting at the trans its self if not have it out by the end of Friday night...
CC'S95GT
Post Whore
metal in the pan is baaad.
It doesn't look like the car is high enough. At least the front anyway. If it's not hi enough then the trans won't slide out from under the car.
Your going to need help and a floor jack at least. You'll need another jack or jack stand to support the front of the engine after the trans is removed.
Don't forget the torque converter bolts too.
It doesn't look like the car is high enough. At least the front anyway. If it's not hi enough then the trans won't slide out from under the car.
Your going to need help and a floor jack at least. You'll need another jack or jack stand to support the front of the engine after the trans is removed.
Don't forget the torque converter bolts too.
sn95jones
Well-Known Member
If your pulling the driveshaft Mark where it's at so when you install it you can line it back up. If you don't your gonna **** some shit up, you'll feel like your car is trying to shake itself dry.
Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2
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FrankenStang
Well-Known Member
thanks guys...again..
A coulple mn12 5.0 guru's ive been talking with said I wont have to remove my drive shaft or gas tank, I should be ABLE to disconnect the driveshaft from the tailhousing and it should move around enough to slide the trans out and back...
and I got the cafr on jacks, and yes it may need to be raised abit more to get the trans out from underneath but ille worry ABOUT that when its time to get it dropped, that the highest my jack would go..ille have to use another one when the time gets closer..i still am amazed at how easy that exhaust was coming off, usually those exhaust studs into the headers on stock systems are horrible,i just tightened it like a 1/4 turn and it broke them free no problem..
I also had NO metal material in my trans fluid or on that magnet in the pan just a bunch of sludge at the bottom and the fluid was brown not even close to red..
A coulple mn12 5.0 guru's ive been talking with said I wont have to remove my drive shaft or gas tank, I should be ABLE to disconnect the driveshaft from the tailhousing and it should move around enough to slide the trans out and back...
and I got the cafr on jacks, and yes it may need to be raised abit more to get the trans out from underneath but ille worry ABOUT that when its time to get it dropped, that the highest my jack would go..ille have to use another one when the time gets closer..i still am amazed at how easy that exhaust was coming off, usually those exhaust studs into the headers on stock systems are horrible,i just tightened it like a 1/4 turn and it broke them free no problem..
I also had NO metal material in my trans fluid or on that magnet in the pan just a bunch of sludge at the bottom and the fluid was brown not even close to red..
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FrankenStang
Well-Known Member
this helped.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5wJzgOYhWAA
well that gunk I found WAS clutch,lol
well that gunk I found WAS clutch,lol
CC'S95GT
Post Whore
clutch?
shorty
Active Member
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I think auto trannys have clutches between every gear
CC'S95GT
Post Whore
that stuff in the pan looks lie brass though
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FrankenStang
Well-Known Member
got my driveshaft out today in under an hour...wow this is going easy..all in all I think I should have the trans out in 5 hours total, and I stop smoke and stare at it a lot 
KidK9
Well-Known Member
got my driveshaft out today in under an hour...wow this is going easy..all in all I think I should have the trans out in 5 hours total, and I stop smoke and stare at it a lot
LoL. This made me laugh. I don't smoke, but I swear 60% of working on a car is just spent staring at it. Funny how we all do that.
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FrankenStang
Well-Known Member
2 lowest bolts in my tarns and the rear trans brace and she is coming out tomorrow..i was able to rotate the flywheel with the Tc nuts and tale em off one then rotate it until the last one was up towards the top of the trans but enough room for me to get a socket on, and then id just give it a sharp slap to break it lose, once again easy breezey ..
I am working on a trade for all my performance parts for a 89 mustang aod, when I go look at it what should I be looking for???
A.smell and inspect fluid.
B.Ask a lot of questons
C. I wouldn't know here to go from here other than the obvious as looking for bad seals or something..
I am working on a trade for all my performance parts for a 89 mustang aod, when I go look at it what should I be looking for???
A.smell and inspect fluid.
B.Ask a lot of questons
C. I wouldn't know here to go from here other than the obvious as looking for bad seals or something..
Musturd
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Sometimes all you can do is take a look ... I do it all the time wether I'm under the car or infront of it sometimes you just can't help but stare lol .
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FrankenStang
Well-Known Member
Mission 1 accomplished. she out with not one single problem, and honestly I don't think I even cussed at it or got upset once...woooooow something is wrong as car work NEVER goes this easy for me.Ive spent this long changing front pads on my old blazer, the trans I could lifted by my self even, buuut I did drain the Tc last night by removing that liittle bolt init since it was exposed and about another quart or two came out atleast...
NOOOOW, what to look for when getting a used trans, I have a few lined up to trade for but what should I exactly look for, smell and check fluid,inspect seals? what else??? I mean im clueless on trans....I mean mine looks like it could be almost new with a minor wash and new filter, I hope that my problem just wasn't a shot Tv cable and filthy filter,but im shur atleast one band somewhere burnt up by the smell of the fluid and the black gunk in the bottom of my pan..is my trans and Tc SCRAP or is it worth selling if I let them know exactly what its issues were...??
and when I get a trans befor I install it I would like to know if the 3 quart larger transpan with drain plug will help, I will also wanna do a trans cooler when I research how todo that...and are there any easy install shift kits that DONT damage the trans like most do, I know 4r70's benfit from them but I hear shiftkits make the aods feel and perform better but kill it quicker, and id want mine to last more than 44k unlike this other one..
NOOOOW, what to look for when getting a used trans, I have a few lined up to trade for but what should I exactly look for, smell and check fluid,inspect seals? what else??? I mean im clueless on trans....I mean mine looks like it could be almost new with a minor wash and new filter, I hope that my problem just wasn't a shot Tv cable and filthy filter,but im shur atleast one band somewhere burnt up by the smell of the fluid and the black gunk in the bottom of my pan..is my trans and Tc SCRAP or is it worth selling if I let them know exactly what its issues were...??
and when I get a trans befor I install it I would like to know if the 3 quart larger transpan with drain plug will help, I will also wanna do a trans cooler when I research how todo that...and are there any easy install shift kits that DONT damage the trans like most do, I know 4r70's benfit from them but I hear shiftkits make the aods feel and perform better but kill it quicker, and id want mine to last more than 44k unlike this other one..
Raffaelli
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Quite the opposite. A faster harder shift makes them last longer. A transgo kit is cheap, but I would get it in and running before you modify it. Used trannies are almost always junk.
CC'S95GT
Post Whore
A bigger pan and an additional cooler will help the trans last longer because heat is a big killer of trannys.
As stated above, in stock form the trans "slips" as it goes into each gear and that leads to premature wear. By firming up the shifts it can prolong trans life but there is a limit.
As stated above, in stock form the trans "slips" as it goes into each gear and that leads to premature wear. By firming up the shifts it can prolong trans life but there is a limit.
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FrankenStang
Well-Known Member
so I traded for a trans last night and it was from an 89 gt with 88,000 miles and I saw the car and eng and all...
I had help from my brother getting in last night and went out to the garage to a floor FULL OF TRANS FLUID !
? #1 I FOUND a plastic plug with a little rubber oring thingy on it in the new trans oilpan,what is that? also it had a piston looking thing in the ver lower keft of the trans and the one from my cougar didn't...whats up with that? ille get pics tomorrow..
so go and start looking at the trans because I thought it was the rite trans but closer inspect it WASNT..The gear selecter was up side down and it had no TV bar for the Tv linkage and the fluid in and out line are slip fits not slidebolts, FUUUUUUUUCCCCCCKKKKKKK! and there is a big mess on my floor.
sooooo I smoke one and I smoke a cig and get a thinking, hmmmm I remember reading and that the inner gear selector can be swapped out( this is not gonna be fun since I read it involves removing the valve body)
So I crack open both pan and get comparing...I start to take apart the old trans and find that there is one nut that can be lossened on the inside of the shift linkage exposed not under the valve body, so I loosen it thinking that's how I start taking the linkage out and I find that the linkage can now be pulled out 1/4 an inch and I can then rotate it and reattach it to the shaft as it has a slotted insert...HHHMMM
So then I look at the new trans and do the same thing, I had to bend the shift lever so it could rotate 180 degrees to match my cougars and then install the TV cable bar which now also was in the correct spot..i then tightened it all up and and made shur it sleected all the egars fine and the TV post correctly pussued in tha actuator majiggy inside the valve body..this is going just wayyy to easy for me, I always have bad luck...
I will have to save up and get a new tail shaft seal, oilpan seal and the best fluid and ille ask you guys about that when the time comes..and once its in I WILL take it to a trans shop and have them properly adjust my TV cable and check its pressure..
I had help from my brother getting in last night and went out to the garage to a floor FULL OF TRANS FLUID !
? #1 I FOUND a plastic plug with a little rubber oring thingy on it in the new trans oilpan,what is that? also it had a piston looking thing in the ver lower keft of the trans and the one from my cougar didn't...whats up with that? ille get pics tomorrow..
so go and start looking at the trans because I thought it was the rite trans but closer inspect it WASNT..The gear selecter was up side down and it had no TV bar for the Tv linkage and the fluid in and out line are slip fits not slidebolts, FUUUUUUUUCCCCCCKKKKKKK! and there is a big mess on my floor.
sooooo I smoke one and I smoke a cig and get a thinking, hmmmm I remember reading and that the inner gear selector can be swapped out( this is not gonna be fun since I read it involves removing the valve body)
So I crack open both pan and get comparing...I start to take apart the old trans and find that there is one nut that can be lossened on the inside of the shift linkage exposed not under the valve body, so I loosen it thinking that's how I start taking the linkage out and I find that the linkage can now be pulled out 1/4 an inch and I can then rotate it and reattach it to the shaft as it has a slotted insert...HHHMMM
So then I look at the new trans and do the same thing, I had to bend the shift lever so it could rotate 180 degrees to match my cougars and then install the TV cable bar which now also was in the correct spot..i then tightened it all up and and made shur it sleected all the egars fine and the TV post correctly pussued in tha actuator majiggy inside the valve body..this is going just wayyy to easy for me, I always have bad luck...
I will have to save up and get a new tail shaft seal, oilpan seal and the best fluid and ille ask you guys about that when the time comes..and once its in I WILL take it to a trans shop and have them properly adjust my TV cable and check its pressure..
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FrankenStang
Well-Known Member
: think it would be a nice cheap upgrade since I need a new pan gasket and filter anyways to just bget the truck 4x4 oilpan and filter since it has the longer pickup tube and slightly larger oil pan, pans can be had for under 30 bucks , im just wondering how deep it is and combine that with one of them universal b&m trans coollers and have a nice little setup for around 100 bucks :
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FrankenStang
Well-Known Member
sweeeeet, put my trans up for sale with its listed issues and dude came by and gave me 100 bucks for it and seemed more than happy with it.it sold in 4 hours!..now I can get my seals and fluid...what fluid should I go with and is it safe to spray out the trans with a cleaner or something befor I install the fluids and new seals just to make shur theres nothing in it?
