Head Swap Project Has Begun. 9-8-10

Venom351R · Jun 25, 2011

Ok so I did a check on the PVC tonight when I got home, I just want to make sure if you guys think this is right or not considering it barley left an imprint in the clay. I had the clay at the thickness of the dish in the piston and the intake valve barley left any mark into the clay and the exhaust I don't think left anything. Just want to know if this is out of the ordinary or not or if I didn't do it correctly. From what it looks like to me there is plenty of clearance. Also the clay was around the whole ouside formation of the dish in the piston and you can also see that it would not hit on the area of where the dish ends and it goes back up to the flat part of the piston.

Also what do you think of the pattern left on the top of the valve spring as far as pushrod length?

Venom351R · Jun 26, 2011

I got done using the adjustable push rod checker. Ended up turning it 3 turns from the stock length push rods that I had before. They were 7.60 so 3 turns would be 7.75. This is the best I have gotten it so far, its more in the middle then it was. The thickness of the mark has gotten thinner and the location on the top of the valve has improved. does it still need more length to it or am I good where I am? Also I checked the PVC again with the 7.75 PR length and this is what I came up with.

INTAKE VALVE

95PGTTech · Jun 26, 2011

Good on the pushrod length, also acceptable on the piston to valve (PTV) because you're running dished pistons. I would assume that you do not plan on degreeing the camshaft since the water pump is already back on?

That's a shame, using a checker spring, a standard cam degree kit tool, is the most sure fire way of checking PTV

Venom351R · Jun 26, 2011

The cam is installed straight up. The heads came assembled and I dont have the tools to remove/install the springs so the clay method had to do

Steven · Jun 27, 2011

I'm excited to see what sort of numbers you lay down. This is sort of the equivalent to the LT1/LS1 versus mustangs. Considering this is on par cubic inch wise and it's not stroked.

Venom351R · Jun 27, 2011

Good point Steven I did not see it that way before. I think this will be a good measure of how well a stock internal with no boost or nitrous can really do. Has it been done before? Of course but most of the combos have been more radical

Venom351R · Jun 29, 2011

Got the Passenger side head torqued down to spec today and used lots of ARP assembly lube.

Also Ed sent me a set of 7.8 Pushrods to see how the length would look. The line got much thinner but did move to the outside of the valve some, but I have read that a thinner line is better then the actual placement being in the middle.

Also called up George today and placed my order for 1 3/4 Accufab Long Tubes

Venom351R · Jun 30, 2011

Passenger side valve train is all installed. Did some looking around online of how to properly adjust the roller rockers so hopefully I did it correctly. I'm in the process of cleaning up the block surface of the drivers side and should be able to get the drivers side head torqued down today and I'll do the valve train on that side on monday and install the lower intake. I would do it all now but its my day off and I have some stuff I need to get done too

Venom351R · Jun 30, 2011

well at the end of the day here is how it all stands. Both Cylinder heads are now on the car (happy dance). I ran out of day light and time to get any further but my next day off in monday and the plan is to install the valve train on the drivers side and install the lower intake. I need the gasket from the upper to the lower before I can bolt the upper on for good. The driver side head is such a PITA. Cant even get it on the block w/ out having to pull out 3 studs b/c of the damn brake booster being in the way and the bottom nut furthest back on the head is almost impossible to get to especially when using a 1/2 drive torque wrench but the damn thing clicked for me....twice

white95 · Jul 4, 2011

:thumbsup: she's getting there!!

Venom351R · Jul 6, 2011

Finished the heads. Was going to put the lower intake on but 2 of the intake bolt holes needed to be re tapped. The bolts would not go in, I think it was casting flash from the machining process. I decided to get the correct intake gaskets in the meantime that will fit the hoged out intake ports ( fel-pro 1262R). Also am considering installing intake studs to eliminate the issue of stripped intake bolts,

Also did a quick mock up nothing was bolted on. That is condensation on the upper not dust. Was down in the nice cool basement then taken into the outside heat

Venom351R · Jul 18, 2011

Made some progress this morning

white95 · Jul 18, 2011

Looks sweet bro!

mygreengt · Jul 18, 2011

looks good! getting excited?

Venom351R · Jul 18, 2011

Yeah getting there, still a few more parts to go but a lot closer then it has been recently.

Here is a better pic w/ the flash off, the flash seems to wash some of the color out plus I need a new digital camera, this ones getting pretty old.

Venom351R · Sep 30, 2011

Well I hoped to have the car up and running this summer but it did not happen. There is just not enough time left this year to make it worth it with what I have left to buy for parts. I still need a mid pipe, power steering pump, new Alternator, Spark plug wires and gaskets and bolts for the long tube headers which I finally got a few days ago from Accufab. All that plus the fluids. But I'll have all the parts bought and installed early next spring so I'll be able to get it tuned for some hopefully impressive new dyno numbers and then off to the track to try and break into the 11's N/A.