How to break in a rebuilt 5.0 engine?

[justi88]

Well soon my car is coming out from the mechanic shop, my question is how to break in the engine? These are the things done to it:

Cylinders bored .030, speed pro pistons
.010 rod and main bearings
crankshaft micropolished
TFS stage 1 cam
TFS cam spring kit
TFS hydraulic roller lifts
Sealed power oil pum
edelbrock timing chain set

There is no break-in engine oil in my country so what oil should i use first for the break-in, under what rpms should i drive it and for how many miles?

 

[lutter94]

Proper break in procedure video, see attached.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A8M2HWeiFRc

 

[ttocs]

drive it like ya stole it!

 

[justi88]

drive it like ya stole it!

jajaja really? i heard if you give it high rpms you can damage some internal stuff

 

[Saint]

jajaja really? i heard if you give it high rpms you can damage some internal stuff

motors get thrown together at engine shops and thrown straight on the engine dyno all the time....you're not going to hurt anything . by the time you crank it and it builds oil pressure you are good to put your foot in it.

the guys who did that work to your car will probably have your car wide open throttle on the test drive anyways

 

[justi88]

thats weird, what ive heard from mechanics and guys here is its crucial to always drive it with low rpms for about 500 miles, but if you guys say ill drive it like i stole it

 

[ttocs]

I had to get a rebuilt motor for mine a few years back. I don't drive crazy very often but I did take it a little easier then normal for the first 500 where I changed the oil and checked for shavings or anything wierd. After that It was driven cross-country 1700 miles again in a semi-easy fashion. After I did my trickflow heads/cam I did use the trickflow cam-break-in oil that they sell although I knew it wasn't really needed. I take it easier then I need too but then again I am never going to sell it so my situation is a little different.

 

[Saint]

thats weird, what ive heard from mechanics and guys here is its crucial to always drive it with low rpms for about 500 miles, but if you guys say ill drive it like i stole it

not crucial at all...just a myth, I have heard of people throwing bearings from redlining rebuilt engines but...I'm sure you dont take your car up to 7000 rpm a lot

 

[g36 monkey]

As stated, cars with new motors are broken in on the dyno regularly. Mine sure was.

 

[rz5.0]

First thing I would do is run it for like five min drain the oil.. Then drive it kinda of hard.. Change the oil again at 500.. That's what I did anyways..

 

[justi88]

No dynos here, ok ill do that i think, ill just put some cheap oil in first, let it run for some minutes and empty it, then after the 500 miles put some synthetic oil in. When i do the first drain should i expect something in it like shaving or something?

 

[RichV]

My break in procedure is take it to the race track and drive it like normal (very hard).

I did always change oil after 1st track session. I wouldn't worry about doing anything special other than changing oil early for the 1st couple of oil changes. Watch oil pressure and temperature, make sure all are in spec.

Did you get a crate, or did someone rebuild it?

 

[94-5.0GT]

everyone has there own break in procedure.
most of the time on engine dyno they will do couple heat cycles to the rings can set and change the oil and then they will do couple small pulls like to 4500rpms then the all out pull.
And then other say be nice to it for 3000 miles. like only go to 3krpms for the first 500 miles then 4k rpms to 1500miles then 5k rpms til 3kmiles then you are set
but if i was you i would ask your mechanic shop on how they want you to break in your engine. so if you do have any problems you can go back to them.
An as far for oil I would run Rotella oil the triple t one. it has zinc in it and that is good for the fresh bearings

 

[rz5.0]

I been told not to run synthetic oils at first.. Just run normal oilbase oil for a few thousand mile... Then switch.. Just what I was told by quite a bit of people actually..

 

[94-5.0GT]

yup no synthetic oil, you can switch to it about like 5k miles. well that i what i do

 

[justi88]

mechanic told me to run 10-40 in shell, thats what he uses, which is really expensive down here.( never heard of that rottella oil, but for sure we dont have it) There is a cheap national brand that only lasts like 1000 miles but i guess i could run that oil first and then change to a better brand like Castrol GTX or their synthetic line..

 

[94-5.0GT]

rotella is made my shell

 

[justi88]

ok searched for that rotella oil but havent found just normal shell oil. Well this is what ill do, once i put that cheap oil in i let it run from the mechanic to my house... then drain that oil to see if there is any shaving or anything... then put some castrol 10-40 and run it for another 3000 miles like 94-5.0GT said and then go with a synthetic for the next change. Does this sound good?

 

[94-5.0GT]

i will probably change the oil every time you step up the rpms. change at 500, 1500 and 3000. I did that with my 306 and i never had a probably with it. I would see if you can find like and break in engine additive. you want something with zinc in it for the break in period.

 

[modo]

use regular oil at the proper weight specified by the engine builder. if they didn't tell you what weight use what the manual calls for. take the thing out for a ride and do a couple decels from high rpm and let the engine slow the car down. thats it... id go a full oil change interval before changing over to a synthetic and its not necessary to change the oil a bunch of times.

its not rocket science and the rings are going to seat in the first couple minutes the motor is running.