OP
OP
justi88
Active Member
Damn so much opinions jaja, ill do what modo says on the oil and drive it like 945.0 GT.
How to break in a rebuilt 5.0 engine?
- Thread starter justi88
- Start date
OP
OP
justi88
Active Member
Yeah everyone has their own opinión, one last comment, when to the mechanic today.. he told me to buy 20-50 in that cheap national oil we have for the break-in and then change to the 10-40 in shell after the break-in, he prefers this oil instead of castrol. Does this seem ok?
modo
Well-Known Member
unless the bearing clearances call for 20w-50 i would only stick to what the engine builder told you or the manual says.
OP
OP
justi88
Active Member
that what the mechanic (engine builder) told me to use, he says the 20-50 is a little thicker and that well let the rings and engine to breakin a little faster, then well change to the 10-40 shell he told me, ok im just going to buy those oils and take them to him so he can finish my car this week, its been like 2 months already and i already miss my stang alot.
rz5.0
Legend
How you going to tune it
OP
OP
justi88
Active Member
unfortunately we dont have tune shops or dynos in Bolivia, but i have faith in my engine builder, hes always left cars running strong and thats why i choosed to take my car to him cause he is like the only guy who really understands V8s and american cars ( he personally has a stingray, camaros and other V8s) so i know he will do it right.
driftingmustang
Active Member
Ok, when I was in there army as an aviation/armament/wiring tech i had the opurtunity to take a semester college course in engine rebuilding and engine theory, so those are my credentials. what was taught was that a proper break in procedure is this (under i deal conditions). if its in a car already, fing a long stretch of empty high way road, etc. in second, or third gear. run the engine up full throttle, let it come back down, repeat. congrats, your engine is 100% and in its prime. to dispell other myths. the why. Oil coats the cylinders, and the slowing rpms wipe them off in the best way possible to condition the walls. change oil if you want to be extra anal and then at 500 miles, cant hurt, chances are it wont do shit. sitting there and just reving the engine = bad by the way. bringing the revs up and popping the clutch also = bad.
to dispell other myths, the whole going easy on it thing is not a myth, it applies to if the rings and bearings you bought were produced in the 70's (and before) because the materials were diffrent and the production was not as precise and the oil was no where near the quality. its also propelled by motorcycles, particularly sport bikes, where the production of the engine often costs more than the rest of the vehicle combined and the rpm range is 17,000. (and more with mods), but when they say take it easy on breaking in a bike motor, the allowable rpm range is still higher than most car engines, example, according to my daytona 675 owners manual, it is not suggested to take the motor over 8,000 rpms. the owner manual also suggests to do the method described above within that rpm range. 500 mile oil change, why, it doesnt hurt to be anal. theoreticly there is micro metal shavings, again unless the parts and oil filter you a bought are pre 80's (yeah authentic vintage ra ra) your fine. better materials, better oil, better filters that have been shown to pick these up when they do occur. (btw, typicly your oil filter is useless after a 100 miles on high mileage motors, yay carbon, gunks up and your filter is bypassed, just a note)
so if you dont have that perfect stretch of road, avoid constant RPM's for a while, take every chance you have to run it up and let ir run down, all under load.
driftingmustang
Active Member
oh yeah, oil, as long as your not way out of spec in visosity it doesnt realy matter. in hot climates its good to go slightly higher viscosity (on the first number if i remember right, because one is cold weight and the other is hot rate), in cold, good to go lower. thats for break in and the rest of your engine life. synthetic or regular, well thats up to you. sythetic oils have been shown to be better so i say why not. go for it. if your being cheap than stick with regular. its your own budget based preference.
OP
OP
justi88
Active Member
^^ thanks for the info bro, ill do exactly what you say. For how many miles should i do the process you said above? What my mechanic said is to use the cheap oil first in 20-50 and then to get Shell in 10-40, he prefers shell next to other brands that are in the market where i live. There really arent long stretches of road here, but i could go for a day to small towns near my city on the freeway to do the break-in.
driftingmustang
Active Member
nooooooooo!!!!!!!!! DONT USE CHEAP OIL! Use API standard SM,SJ or SL or better. a big part of why engines last so long today compared to say, back in the 50's is because of the constant improvements in oil.
Its usually on the back of a bottle.
Its usually on the back of a bottle.
driftingmustang
Active Member
just go with the oil plan on using
OP
OP
justi88
Active Member
I say cheap because its a oil produced in Bolivia, have used on my car before and no problems but i will see if they have those certifications you posted... and again for how much time do i have to do the revs on the highway?
driftingmustang
Active Member
its not short term you will be concerned about, oil is about the long term. there are other ratings as well around the world so google what would be the equavalent to a minimum of API SM. API being american petroleum institute and SM being the rating. lower grade oil isnt something youll see effects now, youll see it at 40,000, 80,000 100,000 miles. blah blah blah etc.
I say drive like that for 100 miles or so just to be on the safe side. according to my teacher 10 miles (in ideal conditions) or so is good enough though. ring seat is pretty fast. honestly, have fun playing with it when you get your motor back in the car and dont over think it too much or worry about it. just get it near your redline and let it come back down. hypotheticly if you do everything wrong and drive the first hundred miles at constant rpms it wont break your motor and youll lose horsepower you would probaly barely notice if you drove an identical car broken in on ideal conditions.
I say drive like that for 100 miles or so just to be on the safe side. according to my teacher 10 miles (in ideal conditions) or so is good enough though. ring seat is pretty fast. honestly, have fun playing with it when you get your motor back in the car and dont over think it too much or worry about it. just get it near your redline and let it come back down. hypotheticly if you do everything wrong and drive the first hundred miles at constant rpms it wont break your motor and youll lose horsepower you would probaly barely notice if you drove an identical car broken in on ideal conditions.
OP
OP
justi88
Active Member
ok so ill drive it like i stole it!! LOL, thanks for the info and hopefully my car will be out this week, want to the break-in fast cause next sunday there will be a 1/4 mile event in my city
Go with whatever the engine builder told you to do. Dont take his info and come back here and look for conformation on what he said. Hes the one that built it no one on here has seen touched or had anything to do with working on that engine. When you come to forums anywhere you are going to get tons of different answers as you have seen for yourself now, some good some bad. Everyone is entitled to an opinion but does not mean its good info. Go with what the guy says who knows the engine better then anyone else.
driftingmustang
Active Member
dude, you do realize if the cheap national oil is substandard oil it will contain sulfides and what not that will shorten the life of the motor. not as if using it only once will realy have a seeable affect, but it doesnt matter, these rules apply to all engines regardless of make, model and the person who rebuilt it. auto mechanics arent always right, i learned that lesson the hard way.
internet based opinions are not always right either. There were a lot more questions pertaining to the break in proceedure then just what oil to use, my quote was geared more towards that then the actual oil based question b/c everytime the enginer builder gives an answer the OP is looking for conformation here and getting answers all over the place.
driftingmustang
Active Member
And what I'm saying is the guy who rebuilt his motor his motor could be a very good mechanic but he is still ignorant to the chemical properties of oil. I just read back through the posts and he said the nationL brand of oil lasts for only a thousand miles. With a break down rate that fast it is high in sulfer, many other things, low in detergent, and could quickly become a weak acid lubricating brand new bearings, rings, cylinder walls etc shortening the life of the motor. I'm no master mechanic by any means but I do have personal expierience and a formal education on engine theory, rebuilding, and history of why engines have improved over the last 100 years. The biggest reason engines last so long now a days is quality of oil. That doesn't matter who your mechanic is.
I never said anything about the oil proceedure being right or wrong by what his mechanic said. The only part of the quote that I deemed important was the part in bold, thats why I put it in bold the rest of the quote was just there b/c I did't erase it.
