Important things when lowering your car, and why?

Discussion in 'Suspension and Brakes' started by B.mad, Jul 17, 2014.

  1. B.mad

    B.mad Well-Known Member Preferred Vendor

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    Ok so i am thinking of lowering my car. I already ordered some Koni orange struts and shocks, should be coming in mid august. Meanwhile, I am going to buy other things. Ok so i have in mind purchasing H&R SS, steeda bumpsteer, x2 ball joints, MM CC plates, Front new Isos, inner tie rods, and new steering rack bushings. So kind of a whole "rebuild" of the front suspension. Ok so If i get the springs, whats is more important to get? Rank them, and feel free to chime in any opinions and suggestions. This is my DD and the car i am going to be canyon carving and occasional road course driving at a local go cart track, nothing to extreme, just some fun.
     
  2. rz5.0

    rz5.0 Legend

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    Don't do x2... get the solid steering rack bushing.
     
  3. DKblue98GT

    DKblue98GT Well-Known Member

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    "Don't do X2" X2... I would also consider full length subframe connectors to take advantage of the suspension mods.
     
  4. whiplash473

    whiplash473 Moderator Staff SN95 Supporter

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    Moog ball joints, solid rack bushings, MM bumpsteer
     
  5. RichV

    RichV Well-Known Member

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    You should to do the X2 to correct the geometry. It lowers your Center of Gravity ad Roll Center back to stock-ish when using shorter coils. Also fixes the travel of the LCA so it has full motion.

    Along with your list, plus subframes, I would do a set of LCA bushings. And don't leave the ass end out of it, rear LCAs plus OE UCAs with OE style bushings.

    Endlinks may not be a bad idea either along with some poly sway bar bushings.

    rz, what beef you got with the X2?
     
  6. rz5.0

    rz5.0 Legend

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    Ha.. 9k already making noise. . Getting ready to come out. .
     
  7. B.mad

    B.mad Well-Known Member Preferred Vendor

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    does AM sell them?
     
  8. B.mad

    B.mad Well-Known Member Preferred Vendor

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    is there any reason why you dont recommend the x2? and i was thinking of getting Full length as well :D
     
  9. B.mad

    B.mad Well-Known Member Preferred Vendor

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    I am thinking of getting some tubular front control arms, thefront and rear are getting a sway bar upgrade, as well has BBK upper and lower control arms and new axle bushings, panhard bar and i have some KYB quad shocks sitting and waiting.
     
  10. ReplicaR

    ReplicaR Well-Known Member

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    As far as the springs go, you shouldn't go too low, or else it won't grip all that great. Even the stiffest off shelf standard location spring will still ride really well, so I'd go for the H&R Super Race. They really are excellent springs for a street setup. Where in SoCal are you?
     
  11. B.mad

    B.mad Well-Known Member Preferred Vendor

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    Ive had a pretty low car before (my '72), and idk i like my car pretty low so thats why i am considering the H&R SS. And can you elaborate on it not gripping to great? I live in Pomona, i am guessing you live in socal? and so where?
     
  12. Musturd

    Musturd Legend

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    Yea I'm against the x2 balljoints as well they fail early . I use napa balljoints usually mainly because they have lifetime warranty on the better ones they sell .
     
  13. ReplicaR

    ReplicaR Well-Known Member

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    I haven't checked for a while but H&R Super Sports will actually drop you more than Super Race. Super Race springs are a moderate drop with a good increase of spring rate, which is why I like them so much. To elaborate on the grip, everything has to do with contract patch and suspension travel. Getting springs that are soft and low (H&R SS in my opinion), would work against you in a couple of following ways. First off the camber curve at that that ride height becomes less than optimal, which means that as the suspension travels through the motion, you actually lose the contact patch. Secondly, the travel is probably the more important problem with dropping the car too low. When you drop the car like that, you end up being a lot closer to bumpstops than you realize. With springs being that soft, once you load it up into the corner, car will begin to lean, and it will hit a bumpstop, making the effective spring rate of that corner very high. In the car whichever corner is stiffer is the one that usually has less traction. This means that once you bottomed out, front will become super stiff, and you will lose front traction, creating understeer. Same can go for the back, but it's the front that usually gives up in the Mustang.

    Also, I'm in Studio City.
     
  14. B.mad

    B.mad Well-Known Member Preferred Vendor

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    ahhh makes sense, but thats only under heavy cornering correct? The difference in drop between the race and SS is about half inch, the difference in spring rate is about 50LB. In the conditions you are speaking is under heavy loads? But the rest i agree, lower cars = less suspension travel. But doesnt the shocks play a role in the travel as well? as far as the rebound. The camber curve youre speaking of is when you are in fast speeds, I am not sure if you are familiar with Adams Motorsport, but thats where i plan on taking my car (if i ever track it). But then again, I know nothing bout racing or suspension LOL. So its settled no on the x2 ball joints. 140 for POS no thank you.

    I grew up in East LA so its kinda closer lol.
     
  15. 9838stang

    9838stang Well-Known Member

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    I have over 15k one my x2 ball joints they made a tiny bit of noise at 8-9k I just inserted grease into the grease fittings again and they work great!!! No issues
     
  16. B.mad

    B.mad Well-Known Member Preferred Vendor

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    I see you have H&R SS springs with J&M cc plates, were you able to get the alignment within spec? and did you use the spcer for the x2? or did you have the extra drop it provides?
     
  17. ReplicaR

    ReplicaR Well-Known Member

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    Shocks have everything to do with travel, because that's where the bumpstops are, therefore in theory, it should bottom out there first. I've actually trimmed my bumpstops and increased spring rates to keep the suspension from bottoming out, and it worked great for traction. Camber curve is a camber curve, fast or slow corners, does not really change anything. I haven't been to Adams yet, I know that KROPS.org go there all the time. I prefer real tracks to whipping it around on a small go-kart track. I'll be at Buttonwillow next saturday, testing some stuff, if you have a chance, come out and see the car in action yourself. I'll be setting things up with one of my GTA friends.
     
  18. white95

    white95 Apex Junky Admin

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    Lots of good info, thanks Dmitry.
     
  19. OnyxCobra

    OnyxCobra Legend

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    I agree, broom the X2 BJs and just get MM solid rack bushings, bumpsteer kit and camber plates. all really quality stuff.
     
  20. B.mad

    B.mad Well-Known Member Preferred Vendor

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    ya ive raced for krops before in my 72, but not on my 94. Ive been wanting to go to other bigger tracks, just dont have the money, nor the right mods done to my 72. Its a far drive for me which means i have to leave early, which sucks when you work saturday morning :p