Important things when lowering your car, and why?

Don't do x2... get the solid steering rack bushing.

 

"Don't do X2" X2... I would also consider full length subframe connectors to take advantage of the suspension mods.

 

Moog ball joints, solid rack bushings, MM bumpsteer

 

You should to do the X2 to correct the geometry. It lowers your Center of Gravity ad Roll Center back to stock-ish when using shorter coils. Also fixes the travel of the LCA so it has full motion.

Along with your list, plus subframes, I would do a set of LCA bushings. And don't leave the ass end out of it, rear LCAs plus OE UCAs with OE style bushings.

Endlinks may not be a bad idea either along with some poly sway bar bushings.

rz, what beef you got with the X2?

 

Ha.. 9k already making noise. . Getting ready to come out. .

 

As far as the springs go, you shouldn't go too low, or else it won't grip all that great. Even the stiffest off shelf standard location spring will still ride really well, so I'd go for the H&R Super Race. They really are excellent springs for a street setup. Where in SoCal are you?

 

Yea I'm against the x2 balljoints as well they fail early . I use napa balljoints usually mainly because they have lifetime warranty on the better ones they sell .

 

I haven't checked for a while but H&R Super Sports will actually drop you more than Super Race. Super Race springs are a moderate drop with a good increase of spring rate, which is why I like them so much. To elaborate on the grip, everything has to do with contract patch and suspension travel. Getting springs that are soft and low (H&R SS in my opinion), would work against you in a couple of following ways. First off the camber curve at that that ride height becomes less than optimal, which means that as the suspension travels through the motion, you actually lose the contact patch. Secondly, the travel is probably the more important problem with dropping the car too low. When you drop the car like that, you end up being a lot closer to bumpstops than you realize. With springs being that soft, once you load it up into the corner, car will begin to lean, and it will hit a bumpstop, making the effective spring rate of that corner very high. In the car whichever corner is stiffer is the one that usually has less traction. This means that once you bottomed out, front will become super stiff, and you will lose front traction, creating understeer. Same can go for the back, but it's the front that usually gives up in the Mustang.

Also, I'm in Studio City.

 

I have over 15k one my x2 ball joints they made a tiny bit of noise at 8-9k I just inserted grease into the grease fittings again and they work great!!! No issues

 

Shocks have everything to do with travel, because that's where the bumpstops are, therefore in theory, it should bottom out there first. I've actually trimmed my bumpstops and increased spring rates to keep the suspension from bottoming out, and it worked great for traction. Camber curve is a camber curve, fast or slow corners, does not really change anything. I haven't been to Adams yet, I know that KROPS.org go there all the time. I prefer real tracks to whipping it around on a small go-kart track. I'll be at Buttonwillow next saturday, testing some stuff, if you have a chance, come out and see the car in action yourself. I'll be setting things up with one of my GTA friends.

 

I agree, broom the X2 BJs and just get MM solid rack bushings, bumpsteer kit and camber plates. all really quality stuff.