Well the abs module got in the way. The passenger header was being a bitch. Basically just anything that could be difficult was difficult. Previous owner replaced a bunch of bolts and they are all different head sizes. Then I finally got it all figured out. And put together after 4 days and it wouldn’t start, the starter just makes a screeching sound. To be clear I installed an on3 turbo kit. I replaced the clutch but not the flywheel. I replaced the fuel injectors, I replaced the maf replaced the plugs, and then I go to start it and it just screeches. Doesn’t even really try to turn over. So I replaced the starter tonight after work. And it does the same screeching noise. Then I replaced the signal wire for the starter. And it helped but it still screeches really loud and only half tried turning over. I have no idea what to do next.
Joshuaw3's 96 gt build
- Thread starter joshuaw3
- Start date
Sounds to me like something is binding it. I’d wonder if something happened when you messed with the clutch and it didn’t get realigned correctly.
Can you get a video of it and post it??
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Can you get a video of it and post it??
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I’ll have to do it next time it’s on the lift or maybe I’ll get it on the ground. I’m wondering if maybe the block plate is causing resistance or not allowing the starter to align properly.
The clutch should be aligned properly bc I used the alignment tool. But I’m wondering if somethings wrong with the block plate or the flywheel or just a bad reman starter
The clutch should be aligned properly bc I used the alignment tool. But I’m wondering if somethings wrong with the block plate or the flywheel or just a bad reman starter
Loosen the bolts a little and see if it goes to to a happy location.
ttocs
Post Whore
there is always the parking brake 
Lol yeah and I fixed that so it actually works. Would a manual rack and manual brake setup get ride of all those lines?there is always the parking brake
RAU03MACH
Legend
It could be a bent plate between block and transmission
can you turn it over by hand
only reason im saying that could be a rod or crank bearing
we hope not
can you turn it over by hand
only reason im saying that could be a rod or crank bearing
we hope not
Yes, a manual rack and conversion plate for manual brakes will get rid of all those lines. I would highly suggest getting the Maximum Motorsports conversion plate because it is complete with a new pedal arm. Then for the rack, @98snakehorse just got a really killer setup that had everything needed for the rack, I can’t remember where it came from though. Maybe he’ll chime in and help us out.
I used a flaming river rack on mine but had to get a flaming river universal joint for the steering shaft and weld it on.
Did you really have to mention that company. That’s just inviting you know who to come flame this thread.
Drinks on lwarrior guys!!!!!!
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Ill take an apple juice
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ttocs
Post Whore
you match that with the right goodyear tires and man you are THIS close to having the ultimate super duper car.
Ok look, I didn’t say that you were stupid for using something else, but I have to admit that compared to other companies manual brake swap kits, this one is most complete and has the best engineering behind it.
I guess I’ll owe you one lol
98snakehorse
Well-Known Member
Time to chime in...... I went with the unisteer manual rack. Came with the steering linkage and tie rod ends.
I need to get caught up with what this little project consists of. So you have a 4.6 2v with what looks like maybe an on3 turbo kit?
I wish I would of stumbled on this sooner as this is not a simple bolt on deal. I have a CG fab kit and it involved quite a few alterations.
#1.... I saw someone above mentioned getting a boost controller to keep boost levels down... that is not how a boost controller works. You cannot lower boost more that what the minimum spring pressure is on the waste-gate. Is this a stock short block? What is the waste gate spring currently? I wouldn't run more than 8psi on the stock engine personally.
Here is the basic diagram to hook up your waste-gate.. Run a line from the turbo compressor to the bottom port on the gate. As for the BOV you can run a t-source anywhere off the plenum.
Shoot me a pm for any questions you have I would be glad to help out.
The manual rack and brakes will clear a ton of room up. I also got rid of the ac and expansion tank style coolant system and did a recovery style.
I need to get caught up with what this little project consists of. So you have a 4.6 2v with what looks like maybe an on3 turbo kit?
I wish I would of stumbled on this sooner as this is not a simple bolt on deal. I have a CG fab kit and it involved quite a few alterations.
#1.... I saw someone above mentioned getting a boost controller to keep boost levels down... that is not how a boost controller works. You cannot lower boost more that what the minimum spring pressure is on the waste-gate. Is this a stock short block? What is the waste gate spring currently? I wouldn't run more than 8psi on the stock engine personally.
Here is the basic diagram to hook up your waste-gate.. Run a line from the turbo compressor to the bottom port on the gate. As for the BOV you can run a t-source anywhere off the plenum.
Shoot me a pm for any questions you have I would be glad to help out.
The manual rack and brakes will clear a ton of room up. I also got rid of the ac and expansion tank style coolant system and did a recovery style.
Last edited:
Wow damn thanks for the help man. Yes it’s a stock short block. Right now the wastegate has a 9lb spring in it. I can change that of course. I was hoping for about 4-450 hp safely and then build a motor to turn it up.Time to chime in...... I went with the unisteer manual rack. Came with the steering linkage and tie rod ends.
I need to get caught up with what this little project consists of. So you have a 4.6 2v with what looks like maybe an on3 turbo kit?
I wish I would of stumbled on this sooner as this is not a simple bolt on deal. I have a CG fab kit and it involved quite a few alterations.
#1.... I saw someone above mentioned getting a boost controller to keep boost levels down... that is not how a boost controller works. You cannot lower boost more that what the minimum spring pressure is on the waste-gate. Is this a stock short block? What is the waste gate spring currently? I wouldn't run more than 8psi on the stock engine personally.
Here is the basic diagram to hook up your waste-gate.. Run a line from the turbo compressor to the bottom port on the gate. As for the BOV you can run a t-source anywhere off the plenum.
Shoot me a pm for any questions you have I would be glad to help out.
The manual rack and brakes will clear a ton of room up. I also got rid of the ac and expansion tank style coolant system and did a recovery style.
I also figured out the wastegate setup already and the boost gauge. I’ve got everything hooked up and ready to go and I figured out my no start problem I hope lol. The previous owner did a lot of routine maintenance on this car but never upgraded. So he had 4 different sized bolts throughout the trans. I guess when putting back together I picked the wrong bolts for the top 2 trans bolts and there’s a gap between the trans and block. So I ordered a new set of bolts from jegs and will put those in and see what happensTime to chime in...... I went with the unisteer manual rack. Came with the steering linkage and tie rod ends.
I need to get caught up with what this little project consists of. So you have a 4.6 2v with what looks like maybe an on3 turbo kit?
I wish I would of stumbled on this sooner as this is not a simple bolt on deal. I have a CG fab kit and it involved quite a few alterations.
#1.... I saw someone above mentioned getting a boost controller to keep boost levels down... that is not how a boost controller works. You cannot lower boost more that what the minimum spring pressure is on the waste-gate. Is this a stock short block? What is the waste gate spring currently? I wouldn't run more than 8psi on the stock engine personally.
Here is the basic diagram to hook up your waste-gate.. Run a line from the turbo compressor to the bottom port on the gate. As for the BOV you can run a t-source anywhere off the plenum.
Shoot me a pm for any questions you have I would be glad to help out.
The manual rack and brakes will clear a ton of room up. I also got rid of the ac and expansion tank style coolant system and did a recovery style.
You’re trans gap is not going to be because of the bolts. One bolt on each side will hold the trans all the way against the engine, especially after you set it down on the mount. Make darn sure you don’t have a wiring harness or a bracket pinched between the trans and the block, I’ve done it and seen it done too many times.
Also, a BIG note; make sure the two long bolts go through the dowels that line the trans up on the engine block. If you put those two bolts at the top, they can run too far in and punch holes in your intake manifold. I also learned that the hard way.
Make sure your separator plate is aligned correctly and is seated all the way against the block, if it’s not, that can bind up and cause the trans not to go in all the way.
trebor3170
Member
Oh Jesus Christ not again, last Friday, between the Ancient Aliens drinking game, (every time they say "Ancient Alien theorists say", you have to drink) and the Maximum Motorsports BJ threads, I got totally plastered, and accomplished absolutely nothing on Saturday
I’m pretty sure they ran out of threads. Every other spot on the trans is tight to the block. I guess I’ll figure it out tomorrow or Sunday
Well come on already. We need Smokey burn out vid’s!!!!!!! It’s part of the requirement for being part of our happy family!!!!! [emoji1787]
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