Joshuaw3's 96 gt build

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joshuaw3

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Times like this is when I say fawk it and drive it till what ever it is just totally goes out. Then I know for sure what it was.

But don’t listen to me. Stupid ideas like that contributed to my car being in pieces for 5 years now. [emoji38]


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Yeah it just annoys the hell out of me. Just a constant squeaking noise unless I press the clutch in
 
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joshuaw3

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Going to the track Friday, first run with the slicks, what are the odds my rear end blows up or axle snaps? 5spd 400ish hp and 460ish torque 28x10r15 Hoosiers I’m worried it’s going to break. Stock rear end and axles.
 
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50406C0C-B257-4141-B756-11DE0964F591.jpeg 59BAF6CB-AFDA-4FFA-A2C8-C4A27E3D8007.jpeg Also I got a tow rig recently, need to do some small visual things to it and then get a trailer, 08 f250 power stroke 6.4 with all the shit deleted already.
 

BigBore96

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Yeah it just annoys the hell out of me. Just a constant squeaking noise unless I press the clutch in
Can we get a video of the noise?

Also I know I'm guilty of this but did you grease it up properly?

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joshuaw3

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Went to the track tonight. Only ran twice. Second pass on launch there was a loud bang from the right rear wheel. Still managed a 12.6 at 114 but I drove the car to the track so I didn’t want to risk running again. First pass was a new personal best. 1.7 60 12.2 in the quarter and 116 mph. Winter plans are to upgrade the rear end and add a nm2b box should be an 11 sec car all day long. Here’s a video.

 
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joshuaw3

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Ive been scouring the internet for awhile now and can’t figure this out. Is my 96 gt a return style fuel system? If what I read is correct then 99-04 were returnless but can anyone confirm for sure?
 

lwarrior1016

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Up to 98 was return style. 99+ was returnless. Yours will be return, but easy way to know is look at the fuel rail. If it has two lines going to it, it’s return style.
 
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joshuaw3

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Quick update for you guys. I’ve been compiling parts all winter, just bought some front runners to match the rears, got some strange adjustable rear shocks, upr upper and lower double adjustable control arms, n2mb box, kirkey seats, a motion race works steering wheel, and just got the full strange 35 spline spool kit.
I just had shoulder surgery so the build and racing will be on hold for a few months but I’ve got a few more things to get and then the winter build will be done for this year
 

50HSN95

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Sweet! The Kirkey's are something I eventually want to switch to.

The two step sounds pretty bad assed! My Holley EFI has a build in 2 step also, I'm anxious to see how it sounds (no turbo though).

How was the fit on the Racecraft seat brackets? I'm presuming pretty good as I know they make some pretty top notch products.
 
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joshuaw3

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Sweet! The Kirkey's are something I eventually want to switch to.

The two step sounds pretty bad assed! My Holley EFI has a build in 2 step also, I'm anxious to see how it sounds (no turbo though).

How was the fit on the Racecraft seat brackets? I'm presuming pretty good as I know they make some pretty top notch products.

I got the racecrafts for a few reasons. They are made specifically for 79-04 mustangs which means they reuse the factory seat bolts, they came with grade 8 hardware which none of the other kits I saw came with, they are specifically for kirkeys and they have been making them for years. They look good too.
Thanks for your kind words also.
 
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joshuaw3

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Hey ttocs I’m hoping you or someone you know, knows the answer to this. I just bought the hurst line lock kit since putting the 2 step in activates when I press the brake meaning it stops the burnout. Anyways I’m wondering how to plumb it. I think I read somewhere that since I have the prb machining abs delete block that I can put the solenoid right in between the line coming from the master that goes to the front spot on the delete block. Block off the unused hole and then I’m ready to rip. Is that correct?
 

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