Lock Switch Not Working

[J-rod17]

originally both sides would lock and occasionally unlock. I bought two switches from the JY and now the driver side locks/unlocks just fine. Still no go on the pass side. I bought another known working switch and still a no go.

When I pulled the bezel off the pass side This "jumper" wire fell out of the back of the switch harness. Not sure if it was doing anything or not....any ideas what a P.O. might have done with that?


here is my switch panel....passenger side. anything look off?


Now with the new switch it will not lock or unlock from pass side as it did before

The pass door will still lock/unlock from the driver side button but nothing from the pass side button.

Any ideas all?

 

[ttocs]

yes that jumper was needed but I am not sure where it goes. What year is your car? I have my door panels off and will be out in the garage later and can try to take a pic

 

[J-rod17]

Mine is a 1994.

 

[J-rod17]

Any luck getting a pic of your harness?

 

[FivepointSlow]

[MENTION=11896]ttocs[/MENTION]^^^

I have the same problem... Switches are moody. Sometimes they work sometimes they don't. Random too.

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[the5.ohh]

ttocs^^^

I have the same problem... Switches are moody. Sometimes they work sometimes they don't. Random too.

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mine too!

 

[ttocs]

ah crap sorry forgot the pics.

The thing with the locks is they use a 5-wire reversing polarity system. A lot of words I know but in a nut-shell it means that its great as there are no relays, the switches do all the work(less parts = cheaper/more reliable) but the bad part is that its a master/slave switch system. If your not familiar with that, one switch gets its power from the other so it possible for one wire to loose connection and you can either loose both switches completely, or one switch completely and one partial. It makes it a pain for troubleshooting...

 

[FivepointSlow]

ah crap sorry forgot the pics.

The thing with the locks is they use a 5-wire reversing polarity system. A lot of words I know but in a nut-shell it means that its great as there are no relays, the switches do all the work(less parts = cheaper/more reliable) but the bad part is that its a master/slave switch system. If your not familiar with that, one switch gets its power from the other so it possible for one wire to loose connection and you can either loose both switches completely, or one switch completely and one partial. It makes it a pain for troubleshooting...

So to cause the switches to work occasionally it's got to be a loose wire. It's just which loose wire we have to find?


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[ttocs]

loose wire/bad connection - something somewhere isn't connecting sometimes. The hard part is the sometimes.... if it was completely dead it would be easier to find...

 

[J-rod17]

my pass side lock/unlock switch is dead. not working at all.

driver side works just fine.

 

[ttocs]

ok I took a pic of mine and compared it and I have no jumper on mine either. I am willing to bet there was some other problem with the locks prior and someone fixed it by using that jumper.

Get a pic of the back of the drivers side switch when you can. The problem could be on that side that prevents the pass side from working.

 

[J-rod17]

I will try and snag a pic in the morning. Or if the rain stops soon. LOL.

I kind of thought the jumper may have been factory since it is the same pink/grey stripe wire found throughout the switch panel.

 

[ttocs]

I know it threw me off as well but the ends looked like someone stripped/twisted and tried to stick it in the contacts of the switch. Might find the other piece of that wire missing on the other side.

 

[tleader]

Don't know if this will help anyone, but I was having the same problem with my window and lock switches. I eventually took the drivers side switch assembly apart and used a small points type file to file the contact points. The actual contact points were dirty and were not making a good connection. Once I filed them down and cleaned them up, they now work like new, no problems with either window or lock.

You might need to open up the assembly and do a bit of filing to clean up the contacts.

 

[J-rod17]

I cant make anything of the wiring on driver side. obviously no jumper wire there though.

Anyone know of anything I can use to close up the terminal ends to perhaps make better contact with the studs on the back of the switch itself? maybe that is the issue?

Otherwise I am back to where I started. LOL



You other guys with issues....able to post some pics of your switch?

 

[J-rod17]

I cant make anything of the wiring on driver side. obviously no jumper wire there though.

Anyone know of anything I can use to close up the terminal ends to perhaps make better contact with the studs on the back of the switch itself? maybe that is the issue?

Otherwise I am back to where I started. LOL



You other guys with issues....able to post some pics of your switch?

I did a Google search of the part number shown in the above pic.

One of the hits was a 97 Escort lock switch: http://www.ebay.com/itm/97-Ford-Escort-Power-Window-Lock-Switch-E7ZB14489EA-/261354620149

Does the Mustang switch unplug like this one does also? (My door panels are not off currently.)

 

[FivepointSlow]

[MENTION=8445]J-rod17[/MENTION] That escort switch looks the same as the mustang, the harness is different but those switches pop off that panel by prying them up and I'd imagine are interchangeable. All it is is the switch on a black box with the connections sticking out the back to plug into the harness.


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[ttocs]

you could probably use something as simple as a thumb tach to push between the hrns and the female metal portion of the connection to help push them back together. Do you have a volt meter?

 

[J-rod17]

J-rod17 That escort switch looks the same as the mustang, the harness is different but those switches pop off that panel by prying them up and I'd imagine are interchangeable. All it is is the switch on a black box with the connections sticking out the back to plug into the harness.


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Got ya. I didn't remember the switch part unplugging when I had the driver door apart but I wasn't looking for it either.

i already have 3 passenger side lock switches. None working at the moment.

 

[J-rod17]

you could probably use something as simple as a thumb tach to push between the hrns and the female metal portion of the connection to help push them back together. Do you have a volt meter?

I can try that in daylight lol.

i have a cheap HF volt meter.