Mild, Medium or Heavy Duty clay?

[ttocs]

everyone I ever talked to said to go with the dual action to keep from burning paint when your learning.

 

[ju015dd]

A random orbital is a type of dual action polisher and that's where you might get into trouble. Start with some kind of simple rotary first. Dual actions are more aggressive and not for the beginner.

Sorry this is incorrect. A da is what you want for beginners learning to polish. Trust me. They are practically fool proof vs a rotary

 

[cobrajeff96]

Nah, it's the other way around.

EDIT: Whoops, just realized I have been mixing up the two types this whole time.

 

[joemomma]

Throw that Turtle Wax rubbing compound in the trash. Do not let it anywhere near your car lol.

Has your car been painted with single stage paint? You shouldn't be pulling any color up unless your clear is gone (unless that's just dirt).

As mentioned, a DA (dual action) polisher is the way to go when just starting. Makes it real hard to screw up. The Porter Cable 7424 is a great one to start with for not a terrible price (in fact I still use one). Good pads and product make all the difference. Start with the least aggressive pad/product and work your way up.

Wash > Clay > Polish > Wax/Seal

 

[Daryl]

I don’t know if it’s cleared or a single stage paint job. My (uneducated) guess would be single stage. I know/can tell the car has been repainted because of a couple of slight errors, but I don’t know how to tell if it’s single stage or cleared. Is there a way to tell?

ON EDIT: I just found my answer on Google. So yes, based on the color coming off when an abrasive cleaner is applied. I’d say that I have a single stage paint job.

P.S.- Turtle Wax compound is in the trash! ;-)

 

[ttocs]

I would agree that it is single stage if you had clayed the car prior to polish and the pads showed that. The clay is to take off all the crap you both can and can't see so that might have just been the dirt that had worked its way into the clear that came off on the pad.

 

[Daryl]

I’ll give it another go. This time wash, CLAY BAR, compound if necessary, then polish!

Doh!

 

[ttocs]

put some tape down and do one side and then you can compare to see if you like what was done.

 

[Daryl]

Good call! I would’ve forgotten then smacked myself in the forehead for forgetting!

 

[ttocs]

you will be able to feel the difference the clay does before/after and you will NEVER wax again without at least hitting the high traffic/front areas. I just wash the car, rinse it off, then before I dry it I once again hit it with the clay/soapy water and then rinse it all off and dry it once.

 

[TTSaleen]

I've been detailing for a few years now.
I like the NANOSKIN for claybar needs. You can get it for a machine or by hand.
Works great and it is reusable!
Here's a link to the medium pad I use - https://www.nanoskinusa.com/products/autoscrub-6-pad-medium-grade

As mentioned, claying the car simply removes rough surface contamination (think dried bug guts, tree sap, environmental fall out) anything that makes the surface not feel slick/smooth.
You then need some sort of compound to remove the top layer of clear and this will remove scratches, etc.

Be careful as paint is not very thick and you can easily burn thru paint on edges such as fenders, hoods, etc.
I use a FLEX 3401 as my goto detailer tool
Here's a link - https://www.autogeek.net/flex-orbital-polisher.html

Your compounds/polish are just as important.
I use Menzerna products.
For bad scratches and faded paint - Menzerna Heavy Cut 1000 grit (yellow or orange pad depending on need)
For swirl/scratch/oxidation removal - Menzerna 2400 grit (orange pad)
For final polish - Menzerna 3500 grit (white pad)

Finally your pad choice will make a big difference in how the compound works.
I like Lake Country pads - https://www.autogeek.net/vcpad-6pack.html

For a economical and durable finish, I like to ceramic coat after. I've used many low-end and high-end product over the years.
But I've found the Optimum Gloss-coat to work very well.

Optimum Gloss-Coat

NEW FORMULA The new Optimum Gloss-Coat™ has added Ceramic polymers and is the most advanced polymer system that forms a layer of clear coat over a

optimumcarcare.com

For quick-detail after all that, you can use RELOAD from Carpro.

CARPRO Reload 2.0 500ml (17oz)

CARPRO Reload 2.0 500ML packs the deep wet gloss, slickness, beading, and incredible dirt repellency, into a convenient, spray-on, wipe-off sealant!

www.carpro-us.com

Good luck! Once you master this, you'll have some really shiny cars!
Ryan

 

[badass98svt]

I've been detailing for a few years now.
I like the NANOSKIN for claybar needs. You can get it for a machine or by hand.
Works great and it is reusable!
Here's a link to the medium pad I use - https://www.nanoskinusa.com/products/autoscrub-6-pad-medium-grade

As mentioned, claying the car simply removes rough surface contamination (think dried bug guts, tree sap, environmental fall out) anything that makes the surface not feel slick/smooth.
You then need some sort of compound to remove the top layer of clear and this will remove scratches, etc.

Be careful as paint is not very thick and you can easily burn thru paint on edges such as fenders, hoods, etc.
I use a FLEX 3401 as my goto detailer tool
Here's a link - https://www.autogeek.net/flex-orbital-polisher.html

Your compounds/polish are just as important.
I use Menzerna products.
For bad scratches and faded paint - Menzerna Heavy Cut 1000 grit (yellow or orange pad depending on need)
For swirl/scratch/oxidation removal - Menzerna 2400 grit (orange pad)
For final polish - Menzerna 3500 grit (white pad)

Finally your pad choice will make a big difference in how the compound works.
I like Lake Country pads - https://www.autogeek.net/vcpad-6pack.html

For a economical and durable finish, I like to ceramic coat after. I've used many low-end and high-end product over the years.
But I've found the Optimum Gloss-coat to work very well.

Optimum Gloss-Coat

NEW FORMULA The new Optimum Gloss-Coat™ has added Ceramic polymers and is the most advanced polymer system that forms a layer of clear coat over a

optimumcarcare.com

For quick-detail after all that, you can use RELOAD from Carpro.

CARPRO Reload 2.0 500ml (17oz)

CARPRO Reload 2.0 500ML packs the deep wet gloss, slickness, beading, and incredible dirt repellency, into a convenient, spray-on, wipe-off sealant!

www.carpro-us.com

Good luck! Once you master this, you'll have some really shiny cars!
Ryan

View attachment 28054

View attachment 28055

Wow great job on that black paint. As soon as you simply look at it the wrong way though, it's not gonna look like that anymore

 

[BeOfService]

A random orbital is a type of dual action polisher and that's where you might get into trouble. Start with some kind of simple rotary first. Dual actions are more aggressive and not for the beginner.

That's not my understanding CobraJeff. I believe the opposite is the case. The "random orbital" dual action (DA) power tool is less aggressive and better for a beginner to use as it does not depend on the heat generated by a high speed polisher to do its work. It is very easy to "burn" your paint with a typical high speed rotary polisher. Dual action polishers achieve their polishing action by using more aggressive compounds over a longer work time, typically with foam pads. Polishing pad stiffness is a big factor as well, with stiffer pads used for more aggressive polishing. Needless to say, use compounds that were intended for DA polishers on a DA.

As a couple people suggested (above), claybar first to remove the dirt that won't come off with even a careful wash. Thgen, if you are not sure what compound to start with, start with a fine compound (sometimes called "swirl remover") and see if you like the results. If there is still too much haze or scratching, go with a more aggressive compound with "cutting" usually in the name, then redo with the swirl remover and look carefully to evaluate the results. Good wax when done. There are lots of good youtubes that show how this is done.

One more note: Do not use old compounds that have separated. I had half an old bottle of Chemical Brothers stuff, shook it up real good and used it on my car. Scratched the hell out of one section of my hood. Bought some new McGuires locally and it worked well.

 

[BeOfService]

I've been detailing for a few years now.
I like the NANOSKIN for claybar needs. You can get it for a machine or by hand.
Works great and it is reusable!
Here's a link to the medium pad I use - https://www.nanoskinusa.com/products/autoscrub-6-pad-medium-grade

As mentioned, claying the car simply removes rough surface contamination (think dried bug guts, tree sap, environmental fall out) anything that makes the surface not feel slick/smooth.
You then need some sort of compound to remove the top layer of clear and this will remove scratches, etc.

Be careful as paint is not very thick and you can easily burn thru paint on edges such as fenders, hoods, etc.
I use a FLEX 3401 as my goto detailer tool
Here's a link - https://www.autogeek.net/flex-orbital-polisher.html

Your compounds/polish are just as important.
I use Menzerna products.
For bad scratches and faded paint - Menzerna Heavy Cut 1000 grit (yellow or orange pad depending on need)
For swirl/scratch/oxidation removal - Menzerna 2400 grit (orange pad)
For final polish - Menzerna 3500 grit (white pad)

Finally your pad choice will make a big difference in how the compound works.
I like Lake Country pads - https://www.autogeek.net/vcpad-6pack.html

For a economical and durable finish, I like to ceramic coat after. I've used many low-end and high-end product over the years.
But I've found the Optimum Gloss-coat to work very well.

Optimum Gloss-Coat

NEW FORMULA The new Optimum Gloss-Coat™ has added Ceramic polymers and is the most advanced polymer system that forms a layer of clear coat over a

optimumcarcare.com

For quick-detail after all that, you can use RELOAD from Carpro.

CARPRO Reload 2.0 500ml (17oz)

CARPRO Reload 2.0 500ML packs the deep wet gloss, slickness, beading, and incredible dirt repellency, into a convenient, spray-on, wipe-off sealant!

www.carpro-us.com

Good luck! Once you master this, you'll have some really shiny cars!
Ryan

View attachment 28054

View attachment 28055

WOW!!!! That is one fantastic looking hood! Looks like a chrome wrap almost. Gosh! I do have one question though: Was the hood wet sanded first? I'm thinking yes. Thanks for posting your process and product list. Excellent info!

 

[BeOfService]

Wow great job on that black paint. As soon as you simply look at it the wrong way though, it's not gonna look like that anymore

True, but he has the skills and he has the tools. Stone knicks can be touched up, and light scratches can be buffed out if you are willing to do the work.

 

[joemomma]

That's not my understanding CobraJeff. I believe the opposite is the case. The "random orbital" dual action (DA) power tool is less aggressive and better for a beginner to use as it does not depend on the heat generated by a high speed polisher to do its work. It is very easy to "burn" your paint with a typical high speed rotary polisher. Dual action polishers achieve their polishing action by using more aggressive compounds over a longer work time, typically with foam pads. Polishing pad stiffness is a big factor as well, with stiffer pads used for more aggressive polishing. Needless to say, use compounds that were intended for DA polishers on a DA.

As a couple people suggested (above), claybar first to remove the dirt that won't come off with even a careful wash. Thgen, if you are not sure what compound to start with, start with a fine compound (sometimes called "swirl remover") and see if you like the results. If there is still too much haze or scratching, go with a more aggressive compound with "cutting" usually in the name, then redo with the swirl remover and look carefully to evaluate the results. Good wax when done. There are lots of good youtubes that show how this is done.

One more note: Do not use old compounds that have separated. I had half an old bottle of Chemical Brothers stuff, shook it up real good and used it on my car. Scratched the hell out of one section of my hood. Bought some new McGuires locally and it worked well.

Jeff corrected his statement in post # 23.

 

[BeOfService]

Jeff corrected his statement in post # 23.

My bad. Missed that. Sorry Jeff.

 

[Daryl]

Here’s the initial try: admittedly it’s hard to tell, but up close and in person it’s a definite improvement! Super smooth compared to driver side and no more dirt/contaminants coming off.

 

[Daryl]

It’s not what I was expecting as far as the clay. I’m keeping it lubed up, using perpendicular motions, and it seems to be working. But I’m not seeing much stuff on the clay bar itself. I’m flipping it and kneading it, but nothing like the grit I see on the “how to” videos.
But again, that all being said, there definitely IS noticeable improvement of the paint surface. And that was just with a wash/rinse/dry, claybar/rinse/dry. No compound or polish.
So I think adding those last 2 steps should get me some good results! (fingers crossed)

 

[lwarrior1016]

It’s not what I was expecting as far as the clay. I’m keeping it lubed up, using perpendicular motions, and it seems to be working. But I’m not seeing much stuff on the clay bar itself. I’m flipping it and kneading it, but nothing like the grit I see on the “how to” videos.
But again, that all being said, there definitely IS noticeable improvement of the paint surface. And that was just with a wash/rinse/dry, claybar/rinse/dry. No compound or polish.
So I think adding those last 2 steps should get me some good results! (fingers crossed)

The way I understand it, the clay bar isn’t going to visually change the paint. Just clean all the contaminants out so you aren’t moving the contaminants around on the paint when you’re polishing.