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Witzy0070

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This is what I have to start, any other items anyone would recommend? I plan on running a 50 or 75 shot.

I have 1996 Cobra 4V with a Vortech blower. I am new to n20.
 

97stanger

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With that small of a shot, you should be good with just the window switch and gauge like posted. The warmer and purge are not necessary but definitely nice additions. Please be sure to post up results, not many guys run nitrous with blowers and I've been on the fence about this for a long time. Gains should be amazing, I'd expect to pick up double the hp based off your shot (50 shot should gain you around 100 hp, etc)
 

Witzy0070

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I am going to go with the additional items, do it right the first time. I wasn't exactly sure where to tap the fuel for the nitrous fuel solenoid though since I have aftermarket rails with no shrader valves.

I'd do a bigger shot, my engine could take it, but I bet I will get belt slip. An 8 rib conversion would be needed. I honestly don't feel personally ready for more than 550 RWHP. I need to learn the car better.

However, I will be buying all the gear with this weeks coming paycheck. I will have installed shortly after, granted, I won't see a tune until April. So it will be a minute until I am spraying.
 

95opal

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I am going to go with the additional items, do it right the first time. I wasn't exactly sure where to tap the fuel for the nitrous fuel solenoid though since I have aftermarket rails with no shrader valves.

I'd do a bigger shot, my engine could take it, but I bet I will get belt slip. An 8 rib conversion would be needed. I honestly don't feel personally ready for more than 550 RWHP. I need to learn the car better.

However, I will be buying all the gear with this weeks coming paycheck. I will have installed shortly after, granted, I won't see a tune until April. So it will be a minute until I am spraying.

Fuel supply will come from your regulator if your running an aftermarket rail. As 97stanger said post up your results as im interested also. Ill be running a 100 shot on top of my vortech setup so id like to see some hard data on what you wind up with.
 

Witzy0070

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Will do, it will be a few weeks but I'd be more than happy to show the results.

According to Aeromotive the best place to tap is as close to the regulator as possible from the the line comes off the fuel rail to the regulator.
 

Witzy0070

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To further explore my current dilemma, any input would be appreciated.

questions_zpsoxsygqza.png
 

Michael Plummer

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The warmer and purge are not necessary but definitely nice additions.
Why a bottle warmer is a necessity. If your bottle pressure is too low, your nitrous system tune up will be pig fat and you'll have less than desired results. If bottle pressure is to high, you may run lean. Ideally you want to run your bottle pressure around 900-1000psi. The hard part is getting that bottle up to the correct pressure and maintaining it there for your run. Ideally you want to avoid nitrous pressure droppping below 750-800psi during a pass to avoid the liquid nitrous turning to a gas.

Not an absolute need but the purge kit will purge air from your line for immediate activation of your Nitrous system and it looks badass when you purge.
 

97stanger

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Why a bottle warmer is a necessity. If your bottle pressure is too low, your nitrous system tune up will be pig fat and have less than desired results. If bottle pressure is to high, you may run lean. Ideally you want to run your bottle pressure around 900-1000psi. The hard part is getting that bottle up to the correct pressure and maintaining it there for during the run. Ideally you want to avoid your nitrous pressure droppping below 750-800psi during a pass to avoid the liquid nitrous turning to a gas.

Not an absolute need but the purge kit will purge air from your line for immediate activation of your Nitrous system and it looks badass when you purge.

You are absolutely right with the info. But for your average guy running nitrous on the street you don't NEED a heater or a purge to get up and running. Like I said, they are definitely both really nice additions and of course if funds allow, go for them. Heck, get an automatic bottle opener too and an in-cabin pressure gauge. I just meant it seems like he may be on a budget b/c he said he had to wait till this upcoming paycheck to start ordering parts, so in time to come he could always add a bottle warmer or other goodies along the way.
 

Witzy0070

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Just use a t off the feed it will be easiest way

I can't use a tee so simply. I have all braided high pressure line. And the nitrous lines are different AN sizes than the braided lines and regulator.
 

Witzy0070

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Why a bottle warmer is a necessity. If your bottle pressure is too low, your nitrous system tune up will be pig fat and have less than desired results. If bottle pressure is to high, you may run lean. Ideally you want to run your bottle pressure around 900-1000psi. The hard part is getting that bottle up to the correct pressure and maintaining it there for during the run. Ideally you want to avoid your nitrous pressure droppping below 750-800psi during a pass to avoid the liquid nitrous turning to a gas.

Not an absolute need but the purge kit will purge air from your line for immediate activation of your Nitrous system and it looks badass when you purge.

Funds are rapidly drying up with my kit build. Trying to convince my lady that nitrous is a safe thing to do and makes the Mustang more valuable is hard enough (Mind you my car is in the shop getting a few grand of work done as we speak). I opted to get my safety parts first, like a blow down kit. I will buy a bottle warmer, remote bottle opener, and remote pressure gauge (at least $600) in the next few weeks. I won't even be getting a tune until April. Which I refuse to shoot nitrous until then.

I did look at NX Express, I liked the plate design but didn't think it was worth the additional money. Plus, purple looks very nice on my all black car.

I know the purge isn't necessary, but badass always is.
 

ttocs

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Their plates are sexy but expensive. I have always been curious about the blower/nos mix and especially so since I now have a blower.
 

ttocs

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I can't use a tee so simply. I have all braided high pressure line. And the nitrous lines are different AN sizes than the braided lines and regulator.

I have been needing a adjustable fuel pressure regulator for a while and recently found a good deal on an accufab model. It has an additional spot on the side that could be used for a gauge or to feed the NOS lines
 

Witzy0070

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Their plates are sexy but expensive. I have always been curious about the blower/nos mix and especially so since I now have a blower.

Well it's going to happen, I will absolutely get numbers and sheets. From what I understand with a re-tune for my elevation/humidity/N20 my numbers should go from 440 HP/355 TQ to about 460 HP/400 TQ and with N20 somewhere near 520 HP/480 TQ. But I hate guessing dyno numbers...
 

Witzy0070

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I have been needing a adjustable fuel pressure regulator for a while and recently found a good deal on an accufab model. It has an additional spot on the side that could be used for a gauge or to feed the NOS lines

Any pictures????
 

97stanger

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Well it's going to happen, I will absolutely get numbers and sheets. From what I understand with a re-tune for my elevation/humidity/N20 my numbers should go from 440 HP/355 TQ to about 460 HP/400 TQ and with N20 somewhere near 520 HP/480 TQ. But I hate guessing dyno numbers...

I think you are really going to surprise yourself with the tq you pick up. I think you'll be a good bit over 480
 

Witzy0070

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I think you are really going to surprise yourself with the tq you pick up. I think you'll be a good bit over 480

Well I've got the mods to support that power. Right now I only push 350ish, that was a tune from the previous owner though, I don't feel my car has a current adequate tune. Makes it hard to say what final number will be.
 

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