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95opal

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I can't use a tee so simply. I have all braided high pressure line. And the nitrous lines are different AN sizes than the braided lines and regulator.

What does that have to do with the price of tea in china ,,,,I assume your running an 8an feed... so you need an 8an tee your nitrous is more than likely a 4 an feed youll need to run a reducer on the tee from 8an to 4 an. Might want to consider a 6an nitrous feed just a thought. you just need a few fittings to make it all work its not rocket science
 

Michael Plummer

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You are absolutely right with the info. But for your average guy running nitrous on the street you don't NEED a heater or a purge to get up and running. Like I said, they are definitely both really nice additions and of course if funds allow, go for them. Heck, get an automatic bottle opener too and an in-cabin pressure gauge. I just meant it seems like he may be on a budget b/c he said he had to wait till this upcoming paycheck to start ordering parts, so in time to come he could always add a bottle warmer or other goodies along the way.
Hi Mike,
I think we're basically saying the same thing but in a different way and we can leave it at that.
 
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Witzy0070

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What does that have to do with the price of tea in china ,,,,I assume your running an 8an feed... so you need an 8an tee your nitrous is more than likely a 4 an feed youll need to run a reducer on the tee from 8an to 4 an. Might want to consider a 6an nitrous feed just a thought. you just need a few fittings to make it all work its not rocket science

Aeromotive replied. They said the blue bung (the unused inlet) is a good place to tap. I would buy all the fittings and reducers but it would cost less to just drill the bung and tap it.

Sorry if I am annoying you with questions, just trying to get this done properly. I am new to this.
 
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Witzy0070

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Update.

I ordered the nitrous kit and some supporting parts today!
 
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Witzy0070

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What did you decide to go with?

pasts_zpsrgd91ben.png


Future parts will include a remote bottle pressure gauge, bottle warmer, and remote bottle opener. Going to go with a 75 shot.
 

97stanger

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Awesome man, not a bad way to spend $1,000! I'm sure you'll love it, and I can't wait to see how a blower car reacts.
 
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Witzy0070

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Awesome man, not a bad way to spend $1,000! I'm sure you'll love it, and I can't wait to see how a blower car reacts.

Thanks for the encouraging words. But let me tell you, I am coming for that 600RWHP you have! We'll see how close I can get.

On another note...

Turns out my car was tuned at a elevation difference of 3100FT, bet I can get a huge increase from 440HP/350TQ with a good tune and 75 shot.
 

1bad9d5

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I am definitely interested to see the kind of numbers you put down with a 75 shot.. I was thinking about adding 75-100 shot in a year or so depending on the kind of numbers I put on a dyno next month with my newer motor and turbo.. aiming for 550rwhp before adding a bottle.. ill be watching for those number increases..
 

97stanger

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Thanks for the encouraging words. But let me tell you, I am coming for that 600RWHP you have! We'll see how close I can get.

On another note...

Turns out my car was tuned at a elevation difference of 3100FT, bet I can get a huge increase from 440HP/350TQ with a good tune and 75 shot.

No problem at all. Oh hell yeah, on a 75 shot as long as you have proper fuel support and spark support I really wouldn't be surprised to see you pick up 120-150rwhp on top of what you would have without it.
 
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Witzy0070

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No problem at all. Oh hell yeah, on a 75 shot as long as you have proper fuel support and spark support I really wouldn't be surprised to see you pick up 120-150rwhp on top of what you would have without it.

Spark I should be good, but I am thinking I might have to upgrade from 42 pound injectors to 60.
 

97stanger

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Are your 42 #'ers supporting your hp now or are you getting any lean dips? Theoretically if they can support your power now, they should support the wet shot because it will fuel itself. But I'm a firm believer in having too much fuel than not enough. I would think 60 #'ers would be perfect for your setup if not 80 #'ers.
 

1bad9d5

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Are your 42 #'ers supporting your hp now or are you getting any lean dips? Theoretically if they can support your power now, they should support the wet shot because it will fuel itself. But I'm a firm believer in having too much fuel than not enough. I would think 60 #'ers would be perfect for your setup if not 80 #'ers.
I would have to say 80#ers have to be way to much for 550-600 horsepower. Motor definitely doesn't need them to be that big. Run chance that you'll just flood the motor with way to much fuel.
 
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Witzy0070

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Are your 42 #'ers supporting your hp now or are you getting any lean dips? Theoretically if they can support your power now, they should support the wet shot because it will fuel itself. But I'm a firm believer in having too much fuel than not enough. I would think 60 #'ers would be perfect for your setup if not 80 #'ers.

It's funny you mention this, and hard to answer... Currently my car is in the shop. It was acting like it had fuel pump failure. Turns out it kept fouling plugs out. It was tuned very far away and poorly, so so fat you could always smell gas and got back firing. She only behaved when you romped on her. I am waiting to get a dyno tune from Dan Hourigan of Dynojet in the beginning of April to solve this. In the mean time the car is pretty much just sitting.
 
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Witzy0070

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I would have to say 80#ers have to be way to much for 550-600 horsepower. Motor definitely doesn't need them to be that big. Run chance that you'll just flood the motor with way to much fuel.

Speaking of flooding... ^^^
 

97stanger

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I would have to say 80#ers have to be way to much for 550-600 horsepower. Motor definitely doesn't need them to be that big. Run chance that you'll just flood the motor with way to much fuel.

I would have to disagree. My car makes exactly 600rwhp through an auto, and we couldn't even finish tuning on the meth because my SD 60#'ers were too high of cycle duty to where we felt comfortable to keep going...
 

1bad9d5

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I would have to disagree. My car makes exactly 600rwhp through an auto, and we couldn't even finish tuning on the meth because my SD 60#'ers were too high of cycle duty to where we felt comfortable to keep going...
Idk seems like a lot. My 5.0 was putting down 500+ with my turbo and 60s were giving me flooding issues. I'm currently having a block built should be ready where I'm looking to sit at 600rwhp and I'm not using 60s, I still have my 60s because I want to add a bottle next year. Guess different scenarios for us.
 

Michael Plummer

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on a 75 shot as long as you have proper fuel support and spark support I really wouldn't be surprised to see you pick up 120-150rwhp on top of what you would have without it.
Up to 120 - 150rwhp increase? I understand on a power adder setup, the power increases are suppose to be more than what your injecting but how did you come up with those numbers. Seems to large to me.
 

97stanger

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Idk seems like a lot. My 5.0 was putting down 500+ with my turbo and 60s were giving me flooding issues. I'm currently having a block built should be ready where I'm looking to sit at 600rwhp and I'm not using 60s, I still have my 60s because I want to add a bottle next year. Guess different scenarios for us.

Cars must just act and respond differently. What transmission are you running? Could be due to mine being auto I would be a bit higher if I were a manual.

Up to 120 - 150rwhp increase? I understand on a power adder setup, the power increases are suppose to be more than what your injecting but how did you come up with those numbers. Seems to large to me.

Personal friends with 15+ psi setups and anywhere from 50-100 shots on top of already boosted motors. All have picked up almost identically double what the shot was on this level of boost. Both are using NX plate kits
 

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