Well, hows the colder plugs treating you?
Also wanted to ask, why are the compression numbers all over the place?
Also wanted to ask, why are the compression numbers all over the place?
OLD FARTS "It never ends"
- Thread starter OLD H2S
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I pulled to plugs after 100 miles and they look good. As for the numbers, the average is 271 PSI with the leak down good but different from side to side? The difference must be the rings not seating yet, looking at all the bores they are about 50% done. The chambers are CNC machined to 38 cc's so I do not know. 14:1 might be too much for the stock type of rings?
The pistons are cast, but stronger than stock, the rings are stock OEM. from ModMax, the rods http://www.modmaxracing.com/product-p/65025059.htm and stock crank with a billet oil pump running at 80 PSI. I was trying to put together an engine that would hold together at 14:1 and a 250 cam to keep as much pressure as possible without bleed off. I might have gone too far with 290 PSI and the cheap rings?
The pistons are cast, but stronger than stock, the rings are stock OEM. from ModMax, the rods http://www.modmaxracing.com/product-p/65025059.htm and stock crank with a billet oil pump running at 80 PSI. I was trying to put together an engine that would hold together at 14:1 and a 250 cam to keep as much pressure as possible without bleed off. I might have gone too far with 290 PSI and the cheap rings?
I dont think so. Rings will hold up fine long as no detonation is present but then again they can still handle detonation to a degree
Youre gonna have to run a bigger intake duration. Something like 270+. The idea with higher compression and long intake duration is to achieve the same dynamic pressures as a low compression with a short duration. Engine braking happens towards the upper rpm or you could say higher torque low rpm engine.
Youre gonna have to run a bigger intake duration. Something like 270+. The idea with higher compression and long intake duration is to achieve the same dynamic pressures as a low compression with a short duration. Engine braking happens towards the upper rpm or you could say higher torque low rpm engine.
OP
OP
Just got back from the tuner, car made 285 RWHP and 305 RWT at 5700 RPM. He had 4 other cars in his index that had Trick Flow heads and PI intake manifolds, the best one made 290 RWHP but used a bigger cam, so I am not going to trim the tune to get more, I seem to be at a sweet spot for the parts I am using.
The bad news is on the dyno on Monday after the big pull the motor started making noise in the driver side cam valve adjusters and some soft knocking somewhere. I did an oil change and cut opened the oil filter and found some pinhead size cnc shavings so some junk is in the adjusters and the motor needs to come apart for inspection... here I go again. I need new adjusters at least. What kind? The all look the same?
The bad news is on the dyno on Monday after the big pull the motor started making noise in the driver side cam valve adjusters and some soft knocking somewhere. I did an oil change and cut opened the oil filter and found some pinhead size cnc shavings so some junk is in the adjusters and the motor needs to come apart for inspection... here I go again. I need new adjusters at least. What kind? The all look the same?
How the hell do you keep pulling, rebuilding, customizing,and all the other stuff you do so freaking Fast???
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I know Gary will tell you to get some factory b-head 4v adjusters to go on the exhaust side. What kind of valve train are you running right now? I used the Ford GT supercar lash adjusters and followers in mine.
Gotta be careful with them lash adjusters. They all look the same, but they arnt. Rates of lash vary. Old 4v lashers ment for less than 90lb seat pressure and 40w oil work great on the exhaust valves! Use pi lashers on the intake valves. Be 100% sure the oil feed orfice to the cams is clear. Npi heads have that little tower orfice and it gets clogged.
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I have the GT car followers, but I see the same numbers for all the different adjusters now. It seems that if YOU take apart the heads for a certain year then you know what you have but to order new ones it is a generic replacement for all types and years. I did not know that GT car adjusters would work?
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The heads are Trick Flow so they do not have the little orifce to clog. Rebuild number 9 is so fine...I have the right tools and set up to do the job efficiently, plus everything is CLEAN and that makes it go fast, just like John Force doing total rebuilds in 90 minutes between rounds. I get smoother and better each time and little things that changed or are different form the last time pop out at you and you know to spend extra time to fix it . My fastest when I was motivated back in July was 6 hours to pull the motor and trans and tear the engine down and have the parts at the machine shop.
The Supercar exhaust lashers are the same size as ours. The intake lashers for the supercar are tiny.
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The need for speed... How do I tear down an engine so fast?
I have 3 impact systems, the 2 larger one have adjustable torque. I am not in love with Milwaukee, so get what you like. The little one sets fasteners very lightly, I got it as a freebe when I bought a kit, I really use it the most because...
With so many 6 and 8mm fasteners on an engine they are easy to strip or snap and they are low torque and need Loctite and setting with a torque wrench or the WILL get loose. After 8 rebuilds on 2 engines in the last 6 months I am seeing some fasteners get very tight like on a motorcycle and some get loose in a week, so now I Loctite them and use a torque wrench, I've learned the hard way, this weeks mistake.. the rear tranny mount came apart on the dyno at 6000 RPM, very scary and I set those 2 nuts but did not use Loctite.
Dirty bolts got in the cheap HF wash tank or the ultrasonic cleaner next to it. I am a brush freak, I have them every where. Then they get the wire wheel to shine them and a blast of break cleaner then the Loctite will stick.
This is my "spice rack", see more brushes? In the corner are knives and cutters.. very handy.
MANY Ford fasteners are 1 time use only and do not hold the second time or snap in half and then you get out the easyouts. Here are new fly wheel to crank bolts from McMaster Carr, they are your friend.
This is my secret weapon, Ford Racing floor mat. If this can hold my 240 pound butt for the last 2 years it is the toughest I have found.
Very comfortable to lay on and it SAVES your knees when setting jack stands. Part Number is M-1822-A8
I am not trying to show off here but but these engines are finicky and I have made a lot of mistakes for you to learn from.
I have 3 impact systems, the 2 larger one have adjustable torque. I am not in love with Milwaukee, so get what you like. The little one sets fasteners very lightly, I got it as a freebe when I bought a kit, I really use it the most because...
With so many 6 and 8mm fasteners on an engine they are easy to strip or snap and they are low torque and need Loctite and setting with a torque wrench or the WILL get loose. After 8 rebuilds on 2 engines in the last 6 months I am seeing some fasteners get very tight like on a motorcycle and some get loose in a week, so now I Loctite them and use a torque wrench, I've learned the hard way, this weeks mistake.. the rear tranny mount came apart on the dyno at 6000 RPM, very scary and I set those 2 nuts but did not use Loctite.
Dirty bolts got in the cheap HF wash tank or the ultrasonic cleaner next to it. I am a brush freak, I have them every where. Then they get the wire wheel to shine them and a blast of break cleaner then the Loctite will stick.
This is my "spice rack", see more brushes? In the corner are knives and cutters.. very handy.
MANY Ford fasteners are 1 time use only and do not hold the second time or snap in half and then you get out the easyouts. Here are new fly wheel to crank bolts from McMaster Carr, they are your friend.
This is my secret weapon, Ford Racing floor mat. If this can hold my 240 pound butt for the last 2 years it is the toughest I have found.
Very comfortable to lay on and it SAVES your knees when setting jack stands. Part Number is M-1822-A8
I am not trying to show off here but but these engines are finicky and I have made a lot of mistakes for you to learn from.
So are you using the battery impacts in place of air?? I didn’t know they made battery operated ones that could make as much torque as some of the bigger air impacts.
I love your setup tho!! The garage seems to have everything you need right there!!
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I love your setup tho!! The garage seems to have everything you need right there!!
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RedTwilight
Active Member
I've got a Dewalt 20v that has 1200ft-lbs of breakaway torque. So... yeah... some of them are plenty strong.
Hhhhhmmmm...........
Makes me wonder if air tools are really even needed anymore. Impact, air ratchet, die grinders and such is all you need most of the time but you can get around all of that now with electric. Other than painting I can really think of a need for a big air tank.
I am gonna be starting to set my new garage up when I finally get the mustang to a point I can get her back on wheels. If I don’t need an air tank for air tools then maybe I can spend that else where.
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I have all the air toys but I use the right angle die grinders the most.
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The engine is on the stand and all the covers are off but I can not find any problems YET. All the wrist pins are where they should be so all my BS about this or that is farts in the wind. Stay tuned...
ttocs
Post Whore
I have not regretted for a minute getting my 60 gallon but I was happy that I waited to find a nice craftsman 6 hp used for only $250. I saw another one on CL not too long ago for about the same keep your eyes open and they come around for the right price.
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You need air for everything. Great for cleaning things including dusting the house.
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The winner is ..... broken valve guide. Took the long way through the motor, it is DESTROYED. The valve guide is made out of cast iron, I found it imbedded in 7 pistons, the oil pump, main bearings. I have not heard back from Trick Flow, and really all they are on the hook for is a refund or replacement. I am Damned and sitting here staring at the wall.
If they are brand new then I don’t see how they couldn’t be on the hook for more. I’d be getting legal advice on that and let trick flow know that your going to get legal counsel as their product just cost you more than what their heads were new.
I don’t know how it will go but I wouldn’t just assume they have no legal responsibility. They will question every lil thing that’s been done through the whole process but as overwhelming as your knowledge is there’s no way they can try to put it back on you.
It’s worth a few calls and most attorneys will give free consultations to let you know what your looking at.
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I don’t know how it will go but I wouldn’t just assume they have no legal responsibility. They will question every lil thing that’s been done through the whole process but as overwhelming as your knowledge is there’s no way they can try to put it back on you.
It’s worth a few calls and most attorneys will give free consultations to let you know what your looking at.
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