Plugs/wires recommendation

[Daryl]

Yelled,
What is a “N/A set up”?

Please forgive my ignorance and I’m sure it’s something obvious that’ll make me slap my own forehead

 

[ttocs]

naturally aspirated, not boosted so no turbo/supercharger.

 

[tvsn95]

Start with an NGK heat range #7. gap about 30. thats safe for a weak ignition.
get a wideband, learn to read it. it will tell you everything. fuelwise
you can only read a NEW plug 1 time under WOT then kill engine and coast off road and pull 1 plug, what you are looking for is timing and heat range. The #7 's will probably be fine. the timing is read off the ground electrode, Google it and learn.
the old school carb style plug reading will tell you little on injected engines. and even then strict discipline is a must. Good luck and be safe on the road.

 

[01yellercobra]

How much colder is a number 7 from stock? I just switched to BREF7's in my set up. They're one step colder than stock for me, but I'm at 18psi.

 

[tvsn95]

to be perfectly honest I don't know, what is the heat range # on a stock replacement NGK. ( cheap copper )I don't have any around but it should be on the package. I have used #7's so long as a start ( on Windsor's ) I don't even think about it.
Sorry for a crummy answer

 

[Daryl]

Ok, here is what I did after talking to Jon @ Jon Bond Performance, who is going through my supercharger and is st this point very familiar with my set up:

Plugs: Ford Racing Platinum, gapped .035
Wires:Ford Racing 8mm

I also installed the BBK full length subframe connectors and located (no easy task) the oil pressure sending unit. Now I just have to figure out how to R&R the old one for the new

 

[Daryl]

Oh, and I STILL can’t get the darn distributor off. Two rigid wire looms blocking 1/2” socket access to the ONE BOLT! I even traced and tried to remove the alternate wire so I could feed it back thru its path past the distributor to open up access for my ratchet but the modular connector (?) on the back of the alternator won’t come free because it hits the edge of the cylinder head. Urrrrgh!!

And then I couldn’t locate a deep socket and a size that fits to do the oil pressure sending unit!

Makes me miss my ‘59 F-100. At least you could get to engine parts without all these darn wire looms giving you fits!!

 

[Daryl]

Oh wait. I just had an epiphany! Somewhere in the back of my feeble brain reminded me that there is a “distributor bolt removal tool” in all its hockey stick, twisted up looking shape that I could probably get at my local NAPA tomorrow and make short work of this frustrating problem that plagued me today. Gee I wish I’d thought of this about 10 hrs ago!

 

[evilcw311]

Just seen your frustration.

Oh by the way..........they make a tool for that!!!!! [emoji38]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ttocs]

I just use a ratchet with an extension and a wobble/u-joint on the end myself. Never had the tool.

 

[Daryl]

I just use a ratchet with an extension and a wobble/u-joint on the end myself. Never had the tool.

Tried that in multiple configurations of wrenches, ratchets, elbows and extensions. Final result: inadvertently donated a 3/8” drive short 1/2” socket to the nether regions below the distributor that even a strong magnet couldn’t retrieve!

 

[01yellercobra]

I still have my distributor wrench from my classic starting stang days.

Personally I never run platinum plugs in a forced induction car. The platinum part has been known to come off at higher pressures.

 

[Daryl]

Tried that in multiple configurations of wrenches, ratchets, elbows and extensions. Final result: inadvertently donated a 3/8” drive short 1/2” socket to the nether regions below the distributor that even a strong magnet couldn’t retrieve!

Got the distributor wrench. Half turn and I could finger remove it! Fished my 1/2” socket out with a magnet, so I got that back, too! Bonus!!