You said 500 hp. That'll be close to 500.
the kit says 675..which is more than 500 to the wheels
You said 500 hp. That'll be close to 500.
Define "better". And when you say blower, are we still specifically talking about centrifugal superchargers?
For power delivery, you can't beat a naturally aspirated engine, or an engine with a positive displacement blower. The torque curve on a naturally aspirated motor or roots-type blower equipped engine is broad and flat and the torque is there immediately and the engine/power is predictable.
With centrifugal superchargers and turbos, the torque curve starts later in the rpm range... generally speaking. And said torque curve is usually sharper, with a peak or point. This makes for power that isn't there down low, but hits like a freight train up top.
You can learn to use either to great effectiveness, it's just a matter of what you want or enjoy. I, personally, like the down low immediate power of a well built n/a motor. With positive displacement superchargers being a close 2nd. Turbos and centrifugal blowers are last on my list, especially for road racing. Texas mile car, yes, big single turbo or a big centri blower.
I am a huge fan of consistency and predictability. When I press on the gas pedal, I want an immediate, linear, predictable response from the car. With naturally aspirated engines, and positive displacement superchargers, this is generally the sensation you can expect.
With a turbo or centrifugal supercharger, you press in the gas and it's almost like nothing is happening, then BAM!, here's your power, all at once, you better be holding on. And that's cool. And you can learn how to use that and play to it, but I prefer the more linear power progression associated with n/a or roots motors.
I get the whole "keep it original" thing. And on that note, I would keep it at 302ci. I'm a proponent of big heads and little cams, and I value compression over boost. Turbo motors are pathetic when not in boost because of the low compression ratio. So, and this is just me, I would stay around a 9.5:1 compression ratio, maybe even 10:1, and just use relatively low boost. Build the engine to redline above 7k, and drive the p!ss out of it.
Granted, if I was to ever get my hands on a 4-bolt 302w block, I would buy a set of big valve closed chamber Cleveland heads, and I would build a true Boss motor.
Double post. My bad.
And no, a 331 will not rev better than a 302. Generally speaking, your shorter stroke engines will tend to rev easier. Increasing the stroke usually lowers the redline. Granted, there are people spinning 4" stroke 400ci motors above 7000rpms, so it's not to say that you can't spin a 331 just as fast as a 302.
Double post. My bad.
And no, a 331 will not rev better than a 302. Generally speaking, your shorter stroke engines will tend to rev easier. Increasing the stroke usually lowers the redline. Granted, there are people spinning 4" stroke 400ci motors above 7000rpms, so it's not to say that you can't spin a 331 just as fast as a 302.
Simply put, the faster you spin the motor, the more heat you will produce. Forged components are built in a way that allows them to handle the heat associated with high rpm's and/or boost. Forged internals generally last longer, so they would be a wise choice in your quest for reliability.
You seem to want a 331 stroker, so build that. A forged rotating assembly will cost you the same whether it's 302ci or 331ci. You can safely rev both to 6500rpm's with the proper valvetrain.
If you build a Boss motor, with Cleveland heads, you don't have to convert to carb. But... the only Windsor block/Cleveland heads intake manifolds out there are for carburetors. So you have to either have injector bungs welded in and fuel rails made, or use a 4-barrel carburetor type efi system.
You would probably be a lot better off just buying some trick flow or afr heads, unless you are after the novelty of building your own Boss motor... which is wt I want to do.
Ok, i am getting a little confused on the blocks. Here is the link for reference.
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com...ang-50L-Ford-Racing-Boss-302-Engine-Block-Kit
If i get that block, will the systemax intake i want bolt on? will the afr 195 heads bolt on? what about all the accessories and so forth will it be the same? will everything be the same? minus the block of course. because i want everything to be the same (besides the obvious and the upgrades)
I mentioned that there are 4" stroke engines spinning near the 7k range. So yes, a lot comes into play regarding redline than just stroke length.
And also, yes, there is another $1000 worth of machining that needs to be done to prep an aftermarket block. You should have everything you plan on putting on thr block first, then have the block prepped for and assembled with those parts.
I don't want to rain on the parade here or anything or get off your original topic but I agree with Rich. and here is why. what makes you think that even when you have enough experience to handle the power, that 350hp wouldn't be enough on the road course? based off what I've read you've had maybe a handful of days out on track in a car with a little more hp. that doesn't necessarily mean that you know how to drive a car with hp on track. (nothing against your driving ability, for all I know you're great). it takes tons of hours on track to learn all the skills you'd need to properly handle a car with 300+ hp on track let alone 500. I see you say you don't want to go with some over the top n/a build to get the hp numbers you want. ok....well instead of doing an over the top n/a build or from what I am reading your intent to do an (in my opinion) over the top f/i build...why not leave the car as is and run it into the ground at the track. the amount of money you want to spend on this build for hp #'s that you don't even need can go straight to spending more time on the track. that's just my .02.
what it honestly sounds like to me is you aren't really as interested in having a track day toy as you're having a cool street car. if that's your goal than go for it. because sadly if you don't take some of the advice that the VERY experienced road racers have on here, your investment in the super charged motor and car you like, you may find out scares you on track, or blows your motor from the heat, or becomes too hard to maintain at a track day, or worse yet....you end up in the fence because you couldn't tame the beast you may have preemptively put yourself into.
I personally think what you need to do is focus on experience on track and having fun. once you're comfortable with your car and know the limit of what you have now, as well as the limit of the coures you're on and are comfortable running around others, then go balls to the wall.