Project: DOHC 98 GT

[98green5.4]

haha, thanks man.

i need to get some good pics of it for the thread. i don't like showing the passenger side because of the fender has theat spot on it from where it was shipped from germany. lol

but that will get fixed eventually. Project update though... we haven't really done much with it lately. its giving us hell with temp right now. the gauge is trying to say it wants to run hot sometimes and others it reads fine and then goes to hot. snap on scanner says it runs about 210 though.

not too sure on that.

 

[NXcoupe]

Well, your gauge has a different sending unit than the computer does. One of the two isn't working correctly. Are your fans coming on and going to high speed as they are supposed to? If they are then the sending unit for the gauge is probably damaged or there is something else going on. If the fans are not working then your coolant temp sensor is bad or the wiring has a problem in it. Hope this helps.

 

[98green5.4]

i think the fans are staying on low speed. they are turning on at the right times and all, but they don't seem to be really throwing out a lottt of air like a fan on high speed would be.

maybe i'm wrong. the car seems to be running fine at about 197 or so to 208 when the fans come on. but the gauge just likes to stay around the A and L of NORMAL.

 

[NXcoupe]

That could just be the gauge then, I wouldn't worry about it. Get a mechanical autometer guage and see what it reads, have your tuner turn the fans on at a lower temp and same with high speed fan, turn it on at about 198. I do that with my tunes, and customers are always happy with how cool the car stays in the heat. Sounds like it is all workin out for ya!

 

[98green5.4]

That could just be the gauge then, I wouldn't worry about it. Get a mechanical autometer guage and see what it reads, have your tuner turn the fans on at a lower temp and same with high speed fan, turn it on at about 198. I do that with my tunes, and customers are always happy with how cool the car stays in the heat. Sounds like it is all workin out for ya!

Yeah, that's exactly what we're going to do.
i borrowed an autometer water temp gauge from the guy behind us that works on old hot rods a lot and we just haven't had time to check it lately, and we need an adaptor to make it thread in the pipe.

and when i get it tuned i will ask for that to be done. i already had thought that the other day while watching the fans come on and go off.
thanks for the help.
-Blake

 

[Win]

Any updates ??

 

[98green5.4]

Any updates ??

lol. yeah, idk how i forgot about updates.. haha

but i put a thermostat in the car and it stopped all the running hot foolishness. the one that came out of it seemed locked up. but idk. had trash stuck on it too. daily driving it now. it needs plugs and wires, and i'm trying to find ford racing stuff. anybody know someone with a hook up on that stuff?

-Blake

 

[dafizuck]

Any updates ??

lol. yeah, idk how i forgot about updates.. haha

but i put a thermostat in the car and it stopped all the running hot foolishness. the one that came out of it seemed locked up. but idk. had trash stuck on it too. daily driving it now. it needs plugs and wires, and i'm trying to find ford racing stuff. anybody know someone with a hook up on that stuff?

-Blake

summit price matches... find some shady website and get summit to match. Good price and good store.

 

[98green5.4]

summit price matches... find some shady website and get summit to match. Good price and good store.

Really?

didn't even know that and i am really close to a summit store in mcdonough GA. Now that i know that i need to print out some papers from a site Win showed me and head down there.

thanks! :thumbsup:

Edit: Now that i think of it, the link i was looking at for the spark plug wires for cheap was a price on 2v wires. Do you know if Summit will match ebay buy it now prices from ebay stores?

 

[98green5.4]

bump for a deadthread. ccasion14:

been a while since i've been in here, but i got a question for you guys that might know some differences in cobra and gt fuel systems. I know a lot of fuel pumps say 79-97 only, or 98 by itself or 98 up to whatever year. Anyway, i had a walbro that wouldn't work right in my 98. I looked up the part number and it was a 190 pump for a 97 down. I'm pretty sure my car is cuttin out because of a fuel problem.I can have my foot on the floor and it's baulking (sp), lunging and just running terrible. Although you can let off the throttle a little bit and it will start running a lot better. I was on the interstate and had it floored in fourth and it wouldn't go over 4k and while it was doing that it was running bad. sometimes it runs good when pulling through 2nd or so, but it usually stumbles and occasionally cuts off.

but now to the real question. I have a complete 97 parts car (cobra) and i was going to drop the whole fuel tank and fuel pump with all the neccesary cobra parts on it and just throw it in the 98 green car. All the talk about 97 and down being different has me kinda puzled though. anybody here know if it would work since im taking everything including tank vs just using the fuel pump from a 97.

 

[98green5.4]

1/18/10

putting a cobra gas tank/fuel pump/lines/everything in the car today.
will get pics up later on.. maybe.

 

[98green5.4]

alright. been a few months since an update, would like some thoughts..

i haven't drove the car in months, been running bad, just basically put it on the back burner.
i really want to get my car going. i hate to say it, but i'm just getting tired of not having "my" car, and i don't mind driving my dads car, but it's just like i said, not really my car and I've had it for atleast a year and a half. she needs to wake up!

haha. anyways.
i was doing some research on the open/ closed loop on the o2's and people were saying stuff about the air pumps (oem airpumps on 96-98 4v's) and how they can make the car run rich (which makes perfect sense now that i considered this as a problem)

every time i went to check the spark plugs they were flat black burnt looking. just terrible. well it makes perfect sense why they would be if the o2's lying basically, making the car run extremely rich without the stock air pumps. then its just kills the plugs, which makes it have this bad stutter/misfire feel.
what do you guys think?

-Blake

 

[98green5.4]

bump

 

[98green5.4]

Alright. little update for those that might care.. lol :tongue3:

put new plugs in and also put on some ford racing 9mm wires today. car runs without bogging down and whatnot. haha... i do feel kinda like a was over reacting about thinking it was something huge making it run bad, but it is still running rich i'm sure. idle strange and if you go from 4th gear to neutral at about 50 mph (it does this anytime honestly) the RPM's will immediately drop down below idle and then kinda even back out to a decent idle.

car just seems still choppy sounding and doesn't seem to have the balls like it did once, or like other similar cobras. i know if i leave it like this it will foul the plugs out and start running like it did before. what could be doing this? leaking inj? any ideas?

any help is appreciated.

thanks, Blake

 

[JDwhite98gt]

I have the same issue but it also stumbles when I get back on the gas. When I push the clutch in, the revs fall way too much so if I'm heal/toe'ing the revs drop too low, I gas it, it stumbles then back to normal. No one could ever give me a good answer. I did change my fuel pump and it seemed to help but you did that also. Sorry bud but hope its just something simple that you are overlooking.

 

[98green5.4]

I have the same issue but it also stumbles when I get back on the gas. When I push the clutch in, the revs fall way too much so if I'm heal/toe'ing the revs drop too low, I gas it, it stumbles then back to normal. No one could ever give me a good answer. I did change my fuel pump and it seemed to help but you did that also. Sorry bud but hope its just something simple that you are overlooking.

Thanks for the reply man.

My car does the same thing when you push the clutch in, or slide into neutral. it's like the rpm's fall really fast as if you were turning the car off, but it just idles then.

I had my snap on scanner on my car today, and i was running the car at idle and also at about 3500 rpm. the o2 sensor's showed they were working When they passed about 3300 rpm's (where imrc plates would usually open fully up) but when the car was idle the bank 1 sensor 1 o2 would go back to their old ways of showing nothing really.

I have another thread on a different forum and a guy on there was posting up stuff that would make ONE bank act up separately from them being a pair. One of the things was an exhaust from the o2 sensor up to the cyl head. Well i know i have an exhaust leak where my midpipe connects to the manifold. Would this be that crucial enough to make the o2 sensor act up like that?

I just personally think it's strange that one side would do that, and on the other side (bank 2) the o2's work fine even at idle. Anyone have thoughts on this?

The car "SEEMS" to run like normal above 3250 (where the imrc's would open) and that would make sense to me.

once again, any help is appreciated
thanks, Blake

 

[JDwhite98gt]

hmm well I didnt know that about the exhaust leak. Maybe I have one too because I still have the problem after the pump swap. Is it a snap-on MODIS? I used to use one of those on my old shop and I loved it but I never was able to put it on my car to check the 02 cycles.

 

[98green5.4]

yeah maybe so. i'm going to check mine out today and hopefully i can get it running right.

And a little project update..
picked up a cervini 3 inch single step cowl hood.