Monday
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What kinda shape is your roof in? Would that be a question for another section?
Random fuel shut-off while driving.
- Thread starter Jason.Silus
- Start date
Flade
Member
That black rubber piece doesn’t belong there and is likely the problem. It is preventing fuel from reaching the pump when the fuel level is low. The sock is just a filter to prevent dirt and crud from getting in the pump and your injectors.. Running a pump dry will shorten its life, and looking at the condition of your pump frame I would replace the whole thing.
Here is a link from CJ with pics and a video of what it should look like.
https://www.cjponyparts.com/acp-fue...xRNU03fNbnDMA_kFfdLiDqwXbY8GgpREaAsUYEALw_wcB
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Jason.Silus
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The roof and motor for it work very well, and the material (vinyl?) is in good shape for right now. When I bought it, they had recently broken the driver side latch, so it leaks on that side, but other than that it's in pretty good condition.
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Jason.Silus
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I took your advice, and went ahead and bought a whole new assembly, with a new gasket, fuel pump, locking ring, etc. Not worth the trouble trying to use old rusted parts.
Upon further inspection, I've found a ton of loose junk in the fuel tank, so I'm trying to clean that out before I stick a new fuel pump in.
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Jason.Silus
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I want to go ahead and get my sending unit working properly, before throwing the new pump in and putting the tank back up. I've tried taking the level out and moving it by hand, but the gauge in the cluster doesn't move. I'm almost certain that it's not a problem in the cluster, as it worked before the shop installed the unit.
Are the fuel pump and sending unit on the same fuse? If not, what fuse controls the sending unit and what are some other causes?
Are the fuel pump and sending unit on the same fuse? If not, what fuse controls the sending unit and what are some other causes?
The sending unit is resistance based, so it doesn’t have any voltage or need a fuse. If you have a multimeter put it on the two pins of the level sender, set to ohm, and move the float. You should see resistance change with the level. If it does that and it’s smooth, then your problem is either the wiring or the gauge.
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Jason.Silus
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So in testing the fuel level right now. When the fuel level is at the highest level, the resistance is about 162 Ohms. Half is about 100 Ohms. Lowest is 15 Ohms. However, most of the time, it just says OL, which I assume means there is no continuity in the circuit. It took a lot of jiggling to get it in the perfect position to get a reading, most of the time moving the float while staying connected causes it to OL again.
Does the Sn95 only test the fuel level when the car is running, or will the gauge update with just battery power?
Monday
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I been going through all the posts and I haven't seen a suggestion to check your fuel inertia switch. Did you check it?
If you are getting OL at all, the sender is bad. The fuel level should read with just key on.
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Jason.Silus
New Member
I believe that's the button in the trunk? That was the first thing I check, and it works as intended. Gave her the ol' whack and reset it.
ttocs
Post Whore
You should be able to read the resistance no matter key on or off. Its a common problem for the copper traces on the circuit board of the gauges to lift/move and it could be a source of the gauge problems.
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Jason.Silus
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Fuel pump, along with gasket just came in today. Hopefully gonna get it installed and give it a test run to see if it works.
ttocs
Post Whore
get ready to play the most f-up game of tetris to get that thing back in with the sock still in it since you didn't just pull it out. At some point you are going to be sure you have the wrong part.
Stick it in 90 degrees sideways, turn 180 degrees, twist back 90 degrees the other way, flip the hat around backwards sideways and then you realize you forgot the lock ring. Don't forget the lock ring...
Stick it in 90 degrees sideways, turn 180 degrees, twist back 90 degrees the other way, flip the hat around backwards sideways and then you realize you forgot the lock ring. Don't forget the lock ring...
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Jason.Silus
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You wouldn't believe it, but I got it in right first try. I watched a video showing the procedure, and before hand I had the old pump and had taken it in and out a few times. I got the sock through without any troubles, just slowly easing it in to not rip it. After that, I got it almost flush, twisted it to be in the right position and it just rested right in place. Probably one of the most satisfying installs I've ever done. I got it to start, but the battery is low and so is the gas, so it died shortly after. Charging the battery in the morning, along with some extra gas to see if I can get a consistent outcome. It's got enough power to prime the fuel pump, and it sounds exactly like it's supposed to every single time.
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Jason.Silus
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The Mustang has officially ran for the first time with the new fuel pump in. It took a few tries, as I wasn't sure if it was priming correctly, but it turned out I forgot to put more gas it in like I said I was going to. I have yet to start it on its own power, but I think once it's ran for a bit, it'll have a proper charge. The battery is less than 6 months old, and fingers crossed I don't need a new alternator.
Now all that's left is to hook everything back up and hit the road. I'm probably going to wait until Monday to actually drive it, as getting stranded on Christmas or a Sunday would not be ideal.
Now all that's left is to hook everything back up and hit the road. I'm probably going to wait until Monday to actually drive it, as getting stranded on Christmas or a Sunday would not be ideal.
Flade
Member
Did You get the gauge issue sorted out? When you were checking it out of the tank, did you ground it? I believe it normally grounds trough the tank. If you don’t have good ground you’ll get the OL reading.
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Jason.Silus
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The first time I tried it ungrounded. I thought this might be the case as the other terminal is not connected to any wire apart from the connector, but I got the same result.
I have the position for the hole marked, and will be cutting it over the week. I decided to wait until I get a new sending unit installed before I try actually driving anywhere, as I would hate for it to die because it's just out of gas. Today I did fill it with a gallon of gas, primed it twice, and it fired right up. Of course this has been the case before, and the real test will be actually driving through the hills of the country back roads. I might try driving it in my yard tomorrow, that way if it dies for any reason, it'll at least be on my property.
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Jason.Silus
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Progress has kinda grounded to a halt. Either my battery is dead or I managed to fry my starter. I can hear the solenoid click, but after that nothing. I'm sure I've put a lot of stress on the battery, so fingers crossed its that simple.
07GtS197
Well-Known Member
Most likely it’s the starter solenoid sticking. Give it a whack with a rubber mallet they try to start it.
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Jason.Silus
New Member
Managed to jump start it a few minutes ago, feeling blessed that I don't have to install a new starter.
Unfortunately, the car is dying after revving passed 3,000 rpm, and then it will refuse to start without priming the fuel pump a few times. Is it possible this is just because it's new, or is there a different problem all together?
Another set back, despite the new fuel sending unit having much more consistent resistance readings, the fuel gauge continues to not work. Guess a new gauge cluster will be the next part. Not truly sad about it, as I planned on getting a new one anyways. Might be smart to try taking the cluster out and checking the right prongs for some voltage to make sure it's not a wiring issue.
The biggest hurdle right now is trying to differentiate what is actually a problem. Without the fuel gauge, I can't monitor my gas levels to see if I'm just running really rich and burning through more gas than I realize or if there's still a problem with the pump. However, whenever I prime it, it sounds perfect, whereas before when it would die, there would be a very audible whine coming from the pump.
