Monday
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- Jul 21, 2021
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What kinda shape is your roof in? Would that be a question for another section?Obligatory pictureView attachment 13935
What kinda shape is your roof in? Would that be a question for another section?Obligatory pictureView attachment 13935
That black rubber piece doesn’t belong there and is likely the problem. It is preventing fuel from reaching the pump when the fuel level is low. The sock is just a filter to prevent dirt and crud from getting in the pump and your injectors.. Running a pump dry will shorten its life, and looking at the condition of your pump frame I would replace the whole thing.That would explain why it would only die when the fuel was getting low or I was going uphill. Thanks for all the help, this has been an ongoing problem for the last year, that I've spent about a year throwing money at.
Can anybody explain to me what the rubber piece at the end is? I think it's something that was on there during packaging, that whatever dumbass installed it left on, but I wouldn't want to throw away a potentially good part.
The roof and motor for it work very well, and the material (vinyl?) is in good shape for right now. When I bought it, they had recently broken the driver side latch, so it leaks on that side, but other than that it's in pretty good condition.What kinda shape is your roof in? Would that be a question for another section?
I took your advice, and went ahead and bought a whole new assembly, with a new gasket, fuel pump, locking ring, etc. Not worth the trouble trying to use old rusted parts.That black rubber piece doesn’t belong there and is likely the problem. It is preventing fuel from reaching the pump when the fuel level is low. The sock is just a filter to prevent dirt and crud from getting in the pump and your injectors.. Running a pump dry will shorten its life, and looking at the condition of your pump frame I would replace the whole thing.
Here is a link from CJ with pics and a video of what it should look like.
https://www.cjponyparts.com/acp-fue...xRNU03fNbnDMA_kFfdLiDqwXbY8GgpREaAsUYEALw_wcB
The sending unit is resistance based, so it doesn’t have any voltage or need a fuse. If you have a multimeter put it on the two pins of the level sender, set to ohm, and move the float. You should see resistance change with the level. If it does that and it’s smooth, then your problem is either the wiring or the gauge.I want to go ahead and get my sending unit working properly, before throwing the new pump in and putting the tank back up. I've tried taking the level out and moving it by hand, but the gauge in the cluster doesn't move. I'm almost certain that it's not a problem in the cluster, as it worked before the shop installed the unit.
Are the fuel pump and sending unit on the same fuse? If not, what fuse controls the sending unit and what are some other causes?
So in testing the fuel level right now. When the fuel level is at the highest level, the resistance is about 162 Ohms. Half is about 100 Ohms. Lowest is 15 Ohms. However, most of the time, it just says OL, which I assume means there is no continuity in the circuit. It took a lot of jiggling to get it in the perfect position to get a reading, most of the time moving the float while staying connected causes it to OL again.The sending unit is resistance based, so it doesn’t have any voltage or need a fuse. If you have a multimeter put it on the two pins of the level sender, set to ohm, and move the float. You should see resistance change with the level. If it does that and it’s smooth, then your problem is either the wiring or the gauge.
If you are getting OL at all, the sender is bad. The fuel level should read with just key on.So in testing the fuel level right now. When the fuel level is at the highest level, the resistance is about 162 Ohms. Half is about 100 Ohms. Lowest is 15 Ohms. However, most of the time, it just says OL, which I assume means there is no continuity in the circuit. It took a lot of jiggling to get it in the perfect position to get a reading, most of the time moving the float while staying connected causes it to OL again.
Does the Sn95 only test the fuel level when the car is running, or will the gauge update with just battery power?
I believe that's the button in the trunk? That was the first thing I check, and it works as intended. Gave her the ol' whack and reset it.I been going through all the posts and I haven't seen a suggestion to check your fuel inertia switch. Did you check it?
You wouldn't believe it, but I got it in right first try. I watched a video showing the procedure, and before hand I had the old pump and had taken it in and out a few times. I got the sock through without any troubles, just slowly easing it in to not rip it. After that, I got it almost flush, twisted it to be in the right position and it just rested right in place. Probably one of the most satisfying installs I've ever done. I got it to start, but the battery is low and so is the gas, so it died shortly after. Charging the battery in the morning, along with some extra gas to see if I can get a consistent outcome. It's got enough power to prime the fuel pump, and it sounds exactly like it's supposed to every single time.get ready to play the most f-up game of tetris to get that thing back in with the sock still in it since you didn't just pull it out. At some point you are going to be sure you have the wrong part.
Stick it in 90 degrees sideways, turn 180 degrees, twist back 90 degrees the other way, flip the hat around backwards sideways and then you realize you forgot the lock ring. Don't forget the lock ring...
The first time I tried it ungrounded. I thought this might be the case as the other terminal is not connected to any wire apart from the connector, but I got the same result.Did You get the gauge issue sorted out? When you were checking it out of the tank, did you ground it? I believe it normally grounds trough the tank. If you don’t have good ground you’ll get the OL reading.
Managed to jump start it a few minutes ago, feeling blessed that I don't have to install a new starter.Most likely it’s the starter solenoid sticking. Give it a whack with a rubber mallet they try to start it.