Rebuilding Auto Trans

[Boostr1]

There will be some play back there. How much play is there? I’ll wiggle my shaft when I get home and tell you how much it moves.

Thanks, did some research in the mean time I think it's normal play... I know you posted this to be funny and tranny serious... Tranny Lives Matter...

Isn’t that what the wife is for?????? [emoji38]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Some times you have to wiggle it yourself...to feel alive... or sumthin'...

 

[Boostr1]

So been thinking about what I did to try and repair my tranny in the past. I know I had the 740 DTC and some other tranny codes. I replaced all the solenoids, installed a aluminium pan, and new fluid and still had the same issue where it would go into limp mode. guess i may have to check the wiring and even the TCM. I have a worked TC so I don't know if that's even the issue. It's only a 2800 stall, but then again it drove fine until later on I when started doing highway pulls to get my A/F right. Any thoughts @lwarrior1016.

 

[lwarrior1016]

Shaft wiggle is normal. I’ll have to look up that code. What was the description of the code and what were the symptoms? Please forgive me for not remembering, if it’s already been said.

 

[Boostr1]

Shaft wiggle is normal. I’ll have to look up that code. What was the description of the code and what were the symptoms? Please forgive me for not remembering, if it’s already been said.

I know for sure one was the DTC P0740 which has to do with the TCC lockup I forget the others. The sympton was the tranny going into "limp mode" where it only stayed in 2nd or 3rd gear and I could't drive over 35 mph with a check engine light. It never had gear slip or anything it just would go into limp mode and throw that code. In post 42 I mentioned what I did to try and repair it but still have the same issue.

 

[Boostr1]

This can't be good, when I disconnected this plug it was soaked in transmission fluid.

 

[lwarrior1016]

That happens with those connectors. Best thing to do is swap it out, along with the internal harness. That code is a circuit code for the tcc so if you’ve changed the solenoid already, I would swap the internal harness (plastic wire strip thing) and the case connector. Then clean out the car side harness real good and thoroughly inspect the car wiring. You could have a chafed wire shorting against another wire.

 

[Boostr1]

That happens with those connectors. Best thing to do is swap it out, along with the internal harness. That code is a circuit code for the tcc so if you’ve changed the solenoid already, I would swap the internal harness (plastic wire strip thing) and the case connector. Then clean out the car side harness real good and thoroughly inspect the car wiring. You could have a chafed wire shorting against another wire.

Ok thanks.

What is the car side harness?

 

[lwarrior1016]

Ok thanks.

What is the car side harness?

Just the wires that are in the car that plug in to the transmission. That’s the car harness for the trans and then you have the internal transmission harness.

 

[Boostr1]

Oh, duh lol

 

[Boostr1]

Is the forward drum and direct drum the same thing?

Nevermind, fingered it out...

 

[Boostr1]

All right, here's my list so far:

HD rebuild kit from BCA
Sonnax Billet forward drum from BCA: it's high cap, so I might upgrade to the 6 plate kit which gives you a completed billet forward drum with all parts installed
300M hardened stub shaft from BCA
Sonnax Zip Kit
J Mod

@lwarrior1016 you mentioned a hardened Intermediate sprag (Mechanical Diode), but I've been reading the ones on the 98 and up trans are pretty tough.

Anything else I'm missing from this list?

 

[lwarrior1016]

All right, here's my list so far:

HD rebuild kit from BCA
Sonnax Billet forward drum from BCA: it's high cap, so I might upgrade to the 6 plate kit which gives you a completed billet forward drum with all parts installed
300M hardened stub shaft from BCA
Sonnax Zip Kit
J Mod

@lwarrior1016 you mentioned a hardened Intermediate sprag (Mechanical Diode), but I've been reading the ones on the 98 and up trans are pretty tough.

Anything else I'm missing from this list?

No, the sprag should be ok, but when I got a new one, it was much tighter and much smoother than the old one. I’d recommend changing it if you can swing it. Don’t forget your internal harness and the case connector.

 

[Boostr1]

Great, do I need to invest in lip seal protectors?

 

[lwarrior1016]

Great, do I need to invest in lip seal protectors?

I would say yes. I believe it’s the rev drum (I cannot remember exactly) that puts up a decent fight going together. The lip tool will help. Which one are you looking to get?


An old man taught me that once you put the piston in the drum, if you can rotate it smoothly then you didn’t roll a seal. After you assemble the drum, put air to it and pressure test to make sure there are no leaks.

 

[Boostr1]

No, the spray should be ok, but when I got a new one, it was much tighter and much smoother than the old one. I’d recommend changing it if you can swing it. Don’t forget your internal harness and the case connector.

Gotcha, yeah I can swing it. Ooh, yes the harness and case connector.

 

[Boostr1]

I would say yes. I believe it’s the rev drum (I cannot remember exactly) that puts up a decent fight going together. The lip tool will help. Which one are you looking to get?


An old man taught me that once you put the piston in the drum, if you can rotate it smoothly then you didn’t roll a seal. After you assemble the drum, put air to it and pressure test to make sure there are no leaks.

The ones I've seen are like 160 to 200 bucks.

 

[lwarrior1016]

The ones I've seen are like 160 to 200 bucks.

Can you link them?

You don’t need anything like that, in my opinion. I’ve never used that.

 

[lwarrior1016]

https://www.amazon.com/SST-0015-Universal-Installer-Remover-Transmission/dp/B011SBGTA4


This should work perfectly.

 

[Pantera1889]

Please remember to replace ALL of the bushings! The fact that you mentioned the shaft movement makes me suspect that the large bushing in the rear of the case is worn. This is VERY common with this trans (especially in high mileage units). When the bushing wears enough, the output shaft will wear into the rear of the case and damage it. At the shop that I worked at, we would have the case bored and sleeved when this damage was found. The bushing is a bear to remove and replace but it is extremely important.
You will not need to purchase lip seal protectors for this trans. Simply lubricate the seals with a combination of STP engine treatment and ATF. Use a .015" or so feeler gauge ( make sure there are no sharp edges on the feeler gauge) and gently go around the perimeter while applying slight,even pressure to the piston. I made a lip seal tool using a 6.5" long piece of 3/8" steel tubing and a feeler gauge that I shaped into a very gentle point . I inserted the feeler gauge into the tubing and smashed it flat to hold it in place. I used that tool every day for nearly 20 years and after thousands and thousands of seals, It still works perfectly. Pay close attention to the servo piston bores ( where the pins pass through the case). These are known to wear as well . Sonnax makes a kit to bore them and press in a (bronze?) sleeve.
Ron

 

[Boostr1]

Can you link them?

You don’t need anything like that, in my opinion. I’ve never used that.

These, but yours is much cheaper.

Please remember to replace ALL of the bushings! The fact that you mentioned the shaft movement makes me suspect that the large bushing in the rear of the case is worn. This is VERY common with this trans (especially in high mileage units). When the bushing wears enough, the output shaft will wear into the rear of the case and damage it. At the shop that I worked at, we would have the case bored and sleeved when this damage was found. The bushing is a bear to remove and replace but it is extremely important.
You will not need to purchase lip seal protectors for this trans. Simply lubricate the seals with a combination of STP engine treatment and ATF. Use a .015" or so feeler gauge ( make sure there are no sharp edges on the feeler gauge) and gently go around the perimeter while applying slight,even pressure to the piston. I made a lip seal tool using a 6.5" long piece of 3/8" steel tubing and a feeler gauge that I shaped into a very gentle point . I inserted the feeler gauge into the tubing and smashed it flat to hold it in place. I used that tool every day for nearly 20 years and after thousands and thousands of seals, It still works perfectly. Pay close attention to the servo piston bores ( where the pins pass through the case). These are known to wear as well . Sonnax makes a kit to bore them and press in a (bronze?) sleeve.
Ron

Yeah the kit comes with all the bushings, and lwarrior directed me to a similar tool that you mentioned. I wonder if I can rent a bushing remover installer tool.