OP
OP
Boostr1
Active Member
Do you really need to use a puller to remove the pump?
Rebuilding Auto Trans
- Thread starter Boostr1
- Start date
Yes and no. I thread a couple bolts in and use a seal puller tool on the head of the bolts. Look up Hiram Gutierrez (I think) on you tube. He has a very good tear down video on this trans. He shows step by step.
OP
OP
Boostr1
Active Member
I've been watching the Transmission Bench videos, and he used a puller. I'll check this Gutierrez feller out.
OP
OP
Boostr1
Active Member
Yeah Hiram Gutierrez is more my style, use what you have. A seal puller is alot cheaper than a slide hammer.
I love his videos. He does really good work too.
OP
OP
Boostr1
Active Member
Just made a few Amazon purchases, ordered some cheap stuff he was using tool wise. Should be here tomorrow. I want to tear into that tranny on Sunday, and see whats what.
OP
OP
Boostr1
Active Member
Alright tore apart today
This is what was in the pan
The first frictions and steels
The direct drum steels and frictions had similar wear, but the forward drum steels and frictions looked a tad burnt there were definitely black marks on the whole circumference of the frictions surface. The OD band looked ok but there were cracks on the frictions material. The other band, whatever it's called looked fine.
I did notice this on the direct drum
See how the edge is all gnarly.
All the bearing and other surfaces looked fine. No broken splines on the planetaries, out put shaft, intermediate shaft and stub shaft.
I did have play on the output shaft, here is a clip
So what ya think @lwarrior1016 ?
This is what was in the pan
The first frictions and steels
The direct drum steels and frictions had similar wear, but the forward drum steels and frictions looked a tad burnt there were definitely black marks on the whole circumference of the frictions surface. The OD band looked ok but there were cracks on the frictions material. The other band, whatever it's called looked fine.
I did notice this on the direct drum
See how the edge is all gnarly.
All the bearing and other surfaces looked fine. No broken splines on the planetaries, out put shaft, intermediate shaft and stub shaft.
I did have play on the output shaft, here is a clip
Good job on tear down! The frictions don’t look terrible, but it’ll be good to replace them. That direct drum looks fine, from what I can tell. You may be seeing what it looks like after it’s stamped. Does the stock forward drum look like that?
That output shaft play looks a tad excessive. Pull that snap ring band slide that shaft out. Look at the splines on the shaft and the drum very carefully.
That output shaft play looks a tad excessive. Pull that snap ring band slide that shaft out. Look at the splines on the shaft and the drum very carefully.
OP
OP
Boostr1
Active Member
Thank. No, the forward drum looks fine. I'm getting a billet one anyways. Alright I'll check the the input shaft when I get a chance. What do you think about the crap in the pan, just normal wear?
I guess it’s about normal for a worn out trans. How long has it been since you added that pan, how many miles?
OP
OP
Boostr1
Active Member
The trans has over 100k miles, but the pan wasn't on there that long. When I started getting the P0740 code and decided to replace the the 2 solenoids, I decided to install this pan while I was at it. Could be left over crud from when I added the new fluids and it just flushed what was in the system into the pan. I didn't see any gnarly damage on anything in the internals.
If all of the clutches look decent, I would be worried about the torque converter being bad. Especially since you had a tcc code, it may have damaged the lockup clutch. What converter do you have and are you planning to replace it?
OP
OP
Boostr1
Active Member
Ya know, that's been on my mind. The TC is a worked unit. It's a 2800 stall. It was on a 91 notch with a 427 mated to a 4R70W. It was Al's son whose car it was in. He didn't run the that converter all that long before he switched to a higher stall converter. I'm trying to find out where he took the converter to get worked. I would like to take it to them because they familiar with it. Who knows maybe it was worked for his setup but doesn't like my setup. I looked inside the converter shaft but didn't see anything out of the ordinary.
Last edited:
OP
OP
Boostr1
Active Member
Funny, Al (the guy who did all the work on my car) said when he would do the rebuild, he would take that converter and get it freshened up. Maybe he had a feeling, and get it done if the trans was getting redone. Wish he was still in the game because I was a regular customer, and he gave me a great price for the rebuild but I never got to it.
Last edited:
OP
OP
Boostr1
Active Member
On a side note, these transmission aren't as scary as I thought they were. Only a few bolts here and a tug there and it's apart.
These transmissions are super simple, and much easier than some others of comparable size. Don’t break in to a gm 4l60e thinking it’s this easy lol.
For the TC, you really wouldn’t be able to see anything in it without cutting it open. I would definitely have someone go through it, at the very least. If you do decide to get a new converter, might I recommend FTI Performance. They build fantastic torque converts. I’ve got one of their 2800’s in my town car.
For the TC, you really wouldn’t be able to see anything in it without cutting it open. I would definitely have someone go through it, at the very least. If you do decide to get a new converter, might I recommend FTI Performance. They build fantastic torque converts. I’ve got one of their 2800’s in my town car.
OP
OP
Boostr1
Active Member
I need a transmission holding fixture for when I start putting it back together. Those things are expensive. I don't want to spend alot of money on something I'm only gonna use once. I don't have a engine stand either.
You can build a box that is tall enough for the output shaft to not touch the floor and you stand the trans up on end. I’ve put a couple together like that.
I actually stood my manual trans up on two cylinder heads.
OP
OP
Boostr1
Active Member
Yeah, I was thinking about that but couldn't find a build for it online. I guess a few 2x4s would work. Would it rest on the bellhousing outside lip, or the tail shaft housing mating surface?
