Tail shaft mating surface, bell housing opening facing up.
Rebuilding Auto Trans
- Thread starter Boostr1
- Start date
Or a small table with a hole in it so the tail shaft can go through.
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Boostr1
Active Member
Good stuff
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Boostr1
Active Member
@lwarrior1016 I took the output shaft apart and didn't see any thing out of the ordinary on the splines on the drum end. Here's a vid of the play again
Man, it’s hard to say if that is too much. I’m thinking it is good to run, because those aren’t a press fit so there is going to be play. The only way to know for sure is buying new parts (not what I like to do).
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Boostr1
Active Member
Yeah, I hear ya. I think it's fine too. Like I said I did'nt see anything out of the ordinary.
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Boostr1
Active Member
Ya, think I'll be good with these options on this rebuild kit. https://www.bcawebstore.com/index.php?l=account&d=deletewish&id=60&tab=5
I'm buying the billet forward drum separate as well as the mech diode plus the pump gears from my own funds. I want the price to look as palatable as possible so the wifey won't look at me funny when I spend our money... She doesn't understand, she thinks a car is to get from point A to point B and that's all... silly woman, doesn't get that it's all about how fast you can get there...
I'm buying the billet forward drum separate as well as the mech diode plus the pump gears from my own funds. I want the price to look as palatable as possible so the wifey won't look at me funny when I spend our money... She doesn't understand, she thinks a car is to get from point A to point B and that's all... silly woman, doesn't get that it's all about how fast you can get there...
The link sends me to account information, I can’t see any of the options.
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Boostr1
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Boostr1
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Do I need to replace all the bushings because they all look good, or only certain important ones?
Depends on what you want to do. Some folks say to replace all of them, some folks do not. I always replace the pump bushing, and the output bushing. The output bushing can be a real pain in the ass to change. If the others look good, I let them stay.
Pantera1889
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Why do I even bother.
Things get forgotten man.
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Boostr1
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Just asking, don't have every tool in my bag. If I have to I'll take the crap to a shop. I'm trying to keep it below 2k by doing it myself. Don't know what a shop charges to replace all the bushings. Don't want to get ripped off.
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Boostr1
Active Member
The kit I'm getting from BCA has all the bushings. I guess I'll just take it to a shop to get done. The bushing installer I got ain't gonna cut it.
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Boostr1
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While I'm there might as well let them press in the input shaft on the billet forward drum.
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Boostr1
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Now to find a reliable tranny shop....
doggiedoc
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One of these days I’m going to be brave enough to take on rebuilding an automatic tranny myself. I might want to attempt the one in my 1996 Jeep Cherokee.
For starters though, I need a larger workspace for room to spread out.
Connie
Member
Hi this is Bob. I was a rebuilder years ago, until the Chemicals got to me. But, the foundation of our 4R70W's is basic to the old FIOD, if I recall, came out in 1978. They were cable shifted. Only difference is our years are Electronic. Check each Valve in the Valve Body, with a small Screwdriver, gently moving each Valve to see if they are moving freely. AND, watch out for the Shift Solenoids!! They may look good, but I would WASH them out with Solvent, and use Compressed Air to blow through the openings, and then Test them with 12 Volts to listen for a CLICKING sound. They should have a SOLID CLICKING, not a faint sound. Many don't realize that Solenoids get Clogged, and they will not perform if debris gets in them. Now, if the Tranny has burnt fluid, you may need Clutch Steels. But, if the Steels are slightly burnt, you may use Sandpaper to smooth them. But, if they are 'HOT Spotted' new Steels are needed. Also very important is, checking all the Bushings for wear. They are a soft metal with oil grooves. where all the lubrication flows through. I would recommend renting a Bushing Driver Set, and a Seal Installation Kit. And when assembling the unit, have the tale shaft end DOWN, and the Front Pump side up. As you Assemble, be SURE that every separate piece that goes in, properly BOTTOMS OUT, flat as you go. So, make sure there is Grease holding the washers in place, so they don't fall out during installation. Last but not least, when installing the Torque Converter on the Pump Shaft, be sure to go Straight into the Pump, and SPIN it in place making sure the Converter seats all the way. I tried to make this short, but it grew into this. I'm sorry. I want to make sure all goes well with the Rebuild. BOB.
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Boostr1
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Found a Performance Tranny shop in my town, gonna ask them what they charge to clean the case, install the bushings and press in the input shaft on the Sonnax forward drum.
