ReplicaR's Time Trial Mustang build *Engine Rebuild*

ba#97

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 3, 2011
Messages
1,094
Reaction score
20
Location
Sacramento, Ca
seeing as you and i have the exact same suspension for the most part. about how many threads (from bottom of sleeve to the lower spring perch do you have?) on the front and then the rear? i'd like to base my ride heights off of yours. i had my car decently low for a bit but it was bouncing off the pinion snubber badly. which made my car bounce very bad during my runs in autox. what have you done to fix that?
 
OP
OP
R

ReplicaR

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 2, 2007
Messages
3,456
Reaction score
443
My suspension settings will not work for you. The reason my car is this low is because I have tubular k-member, and torque arm. Even being this low, I don't lose any grip like I would with 4 link and stock k-member. I've also cut my bump stops to give myself more travel. Go to page 4 and read how I did it. I'd raise your car an inch at least from where you are. You are bottoming out the suspension.
 

ba#97

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 3, 2011
Messages
1,094
Reaction score
20
Location
Sacramento, Ca
well did you shave your pinion snubber or anything of that nature? i took a pic of the snubber that same day prior to fun runs, noticed there was barely an inch in between the snubber and the pinion itself. so i raised the rear up about an inch and it felt a lot better. i think i will shave the bump stops to be safe. i do have koni sa's. anything else you recommend to make this car handle better?
 

Musturd

Post Whore
Joined
Feb 12, 2011
Messages
10,557
Reaction score
2,346
He said look at page 4 it will show you how he modified his bump stops
 
OP
OP
R

ReplicaR

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 2, 2007
Messages
3,456
Reaction score
443
I've replaced the pinion snubber with a "soft touch" maximum motorsport one. It usually comes free with all of their drop springs. As for recommendation, I just think while you are still running stock k-member and 4 link, your ride height should not be lower than 1.25 inches from factory. Trust me on this, the car will grip more this way, you will see for yourself.
 

Musturd

Post Whore
Joined
Feb 12, 2011
Messages
10,557
Reaction score
2,346
I'm going to do this shaving of the bump stops on my car now. I'm running coilovers all around wouldn't mind a bit more travel from the rear. I also already am running the MM pinning snubber. What rear control arms are you running ? My fox has basically everything ur car does and my sn95 I'm running different stuff.
 
OP
OP
R

ReplicaR

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 2, 2007
Messages
3,456
Reaction score
443
Just standard duty MM lowers, and torque arm. Once I will get adjustable sway bar, I will get rid of the lowers in favor of those road race ones (tiny ones with two rod end links). Another thing I probably should mention, be careful with big bumps once the bump stops are shortened. I've hit a nasty one on a freeway, and I felt the axle actually bottom out on the body. Not a very nice feeling.
 

Musturd

Post Whore
Joined
Feb 12, 2011
Messages
10,557
Reaction score
2,346
Holy yea that would be scary. Yea I'm running double adjustable uppers they are spherical heim joint on one end as do the lowers and are also adjustable. I've got the MM panhard bar on my fox to I was planning on getting the torque arm as well
 

Dalamar

Post Whore
SN95 Supporter
Joined
Feb 3, 2006
Messages
13,863
Reaction score
124
Location
SLC, UT
nice work rep.
maybe i missed it, but why did you get the 03 rack?

nice K BTW :)
 
OP
OP
R

ReplicaR

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 2, 2007
Messages
3,456
Reaction score
443
Stock rack has too much power assist. I really don't like it, and it makes the car sketchy as hell at high speeds when the steering wheel is this light. 2003 Cobra rack is supposed to have less assist, which makes it more responsive supposedly, and gives you more feedback. I'm going to find out first hand if this is correct or not. My rack also has a little bit of play in it, so I'm hoping that the Cobra rack will take care of that issue too.
 

mikey94gt

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 13, 2009
Messages
4,414
Reaction score
37
Ive heard that the Cobra racks have a different ratio in them, I would like to know if it works for you... my car is touchy at high speed too.


Sounds like your very happy with the K member setup too!
 
OP
OP
R

ReplicaR

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 2, 2007
Messages
3,456
Reaction score
443
Installed the Cobra rack and the bolt through bumpsteer kit. First and foremost, bumpsteer was way off on the tapered stud setup. People at MM were not kidding when they said that bolt though setup is a must with their k-member, especially when you are relocating the control arm setup just a tiny bit up for better roll center. The bumpsteer measurement was done with the gauge, and I had it setup as close to zero bumpsteer that I could get. It will always change toe regardless of how close you can get it, but at least now it's much better than what it used to be. Car feels lot more composed over broken ass SoCal freeways, which is always a good thing, and turn in seems better

Onto the Cobra rack. To put a few myths away for good. The rack ratio is not any different from any other SN95 power steer rack. Absolutely the same. Why did I do this then? Well, the new rack is definitely getting less power assistance, which makes it feel stiffer, and sportier. How much stiffer is the steering wheel input? It's hard to quantify something like this, but if I had to, I would say that it's about 20% stiffer than what it used to be. It's definitely better than what it used to be, and it's easier to read the feedback of the front wheels through the steering wheel than it was with the stock rack. It's still not quite as stiff as I wanted it to be (I was aiming for S2000 steering feel), so I might underdrive the steering pump as well with a larger pulley, just to see what it will feel like. Is it a worth while upgrade however? At 160 dollars that I paid for the rack shipped, I definitely think so. Next on the list is the solid steering shaft from MM.

Another side note: When changing the rack, I found it much easier to disconnect the inner tie rod ends, rather than the outer. This way the car did not require a trip to alignment rack after.
 

Willis_98GT

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2007
Messages
3,180
Reaction score
24
Location
DFW Texas
Installed the Cobra rack and the bolt through bumpsteer kit. First and foremost, bumpsteer was way off on the tapered stud setup. People at MM were not kidding when they said that bolt though setup is a must with their k-member, especially when you are relocating the control arm setup just a tiny bit up for better roll center. The bumpsteer measurement was done with the gauge, and I had it setup as close to zero bumpsteer that I could get. It will always change toe regardless of how close you can get it, but at least now it's much better than what it used to be. Car feels lot more composed over broken ass SoCal freeways, which is always a good thing, and turn in seems better

Onto the Cobra rack. To put a few myths away for good. The rack ratio is not any different from any other SN95 power steer rack. Absolutely the same. Why did I do this then? Well, the new rack is definitely getting less power assistance, which makes it feel stiffer, and sportier. How much stiffer is the steering wheel input? It's hard to quantify something like this, but if I had to, I would say that it's about 20% stiffer than what it used to be. It's definitely better than what it used to be, and it's easier to read the feedback of the front wheels through the steering wheel than it was with the stock rack. It's still not quite as stiff as I wanted it to be (I was aiming for S2000 steering feel), so I might underdrive the steering pump as well with a larger pulley, just to see what it will feel like. Is it a worth while upgrade however? At 160 dollars that I paid for the rack shipped, I definitely think so. Next on the list is the solid steering shaft from MM.

Another side note: When changing the rack, I found it much easier to disconnect the inner tie rod ends, rather than the outer. This way the car did not require a trip to alignment rack after.

Awesome man, thanks for the pm on this. i had to heat my outter rods up with a torch just to get them to move when i popped my new rack on,

what are the advantages of a solid steering shaft?
 
OP
OP
R

ReplicaR

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 2, 2007
Messages
3,456
Reaction score
443
No rubber bushing in the middle of the stock shaft. I've eliminated all the rubber from the front end, this is the last piece so to speak.
 

Anchor-Room

Active Member
Joined
Mar 28, 2011
Messages
286
Reaction score
4
No rubber bushing in the middle of the stock shaft. I've eliminated all the rubber from the front end, this is the last piece so to speak.

I've often wondered this - thanks for clearing it up - you have a comparison between stock 03 Cobra Shaft and solid?
 
OP
OP
R

ReplicaR

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 2, 2007
Messages
3,456
Reaction score
443
Not yet. I'll get one soon enough. I do have a 2003 Cobra steering shaft on the shelf at home and a spare stock one, and I swear I can not tell a difference between the two.
 

Steven

Legend
Joined
Jun 3, 2007
Messages
8,177
Reaction score
118
Location
SC
Are you running MM solid rack bushings? I have a kit handy that I've owned for a few years and never used. Was considering installing it on my 98.
 
OP
OP
R

ReplicaR

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 2, 2007
Messages
3,456
Reaction score
443
probably isnt one.

Got it from a friend's 2003 Cobra who went to solid shaft. I'm 100% it's real.

Are you running MM solid rack bushings? I have a kit handy that I've owned for a few years and never used. Was considering installing it on my 98.

Yeah, got those when the k-member was installed. I've got urethane bushings that anyone who wants a set can have for free, as long as they pay shipping.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
77,566
Messages
1,505,000
Members
15,031
Latest member
IDTag

Members online

Top