suspension

[Schiffy]

I was planning on going with UPR solid upper and lowers... along with the QA1 K-member/coilover kit. does anyone have a say so about that?

 

[MuscleInc1320]

i have heard that a k member really stiffens up the front suspension but idk if is worth the money right now, but coil overs are good.

 

[Dalamar]

K members do that, with the exception of the MM piece, they offset the A-arm mount so it still has full travel when lowered.

ride is also effected by how much you lower it. also by what spring rate you go with, if you go coil overs.

 

[MuscleInc1320]

oh ok then

 

[Dalamar]

are you being sarcastic?

 

[MuscleInc1320]

no bro really thanx

 

[NYC94GT]

I was planning on going with UPR solid upper and lowers... along with the QA1 K-member/coilover kit. does anyone have a say so about that?

What do you want to do? Handle better or drag race?? If handling is your thing, spend your money on either the Griggs K or the Maximum K. If DR is your spot, the QA, D&D and others are for that as they focus on front end weight loss more so then cornering geometry.
Here's what I was told from a tech at Griggs... He said the SN-95 and FOX platforms are both plagued with handling issues more due to the REAR END set up than the front end. Yes, the front has problems too, but the "roll center" of the rear is actually in the pavement! Causing the rear end to lift hard during hard braking, and a condition of "snap oversteer" under hard cornering. This is because the front and rear roll centers do not pivot around the same locations. This binds the control arms in the rear as they are asked to do too much! To fix this, you need to remove the upper control arms and install a panhard bar and torque arm. There are other "watts link" setups that will do the same thing so this isn't the only way for the rear end. I know the K-Member and tubular a-arm with coil overs are the "sexy" way to go cuz it looks good. But for limited $$$, spend the money on the rear first. Trust me, your car will handle like it has an IRS setup. Then save your cheese for a bigger brake kit like the Cobra R Brembo set. Then do the front K/C-O work. O0

 

[96sohc]

i KNOW, i DID, i PAID.... :behind: But.... the car handles like a MOFO! Better than any setup and I would think on par with Maimium Motorsports.

As soon as I have a decent amount of disposable income I'm starting on the Griggs kit.
I've driven GR40 kits on foxes, SN95's and new edges; its completely unreal.

 

[Dalamar]

no bro really thanx

Just wondering, no problemo. I'm happy to help out a fellow mustanger.

I was planning on going with UPR solid upper and lowers... along with the QA1 K-member/coilover kit. does anyone have a say so about that?

What do you want to do? Handle better or drag race?? If handling is your thing, spend your money on either the Griggs K or the Maximum K. If DR is your spot, the QA, D&D and others are for that as they focus on front end weight loss more so then cornering geometry.
Here's what I was told from a tech at Griggs... He said the SN-95 and FOX platforms are both plagued with handling issues more due to the REAR END set up than the front end. Yes, the front has problems too, but the "roll center" of the rear is actually in the pavement! Causing the rear end to lift hard during hard braking, and a condition of "snap oversteer" under hard cornering. This is because the front and rear roll centers do not pivot around the same locations. This binds the control arms in the rear as they are asked to do too much! To fix this, you need to remove the upper control arms and install a panhard bar and torque arm. There are other "watts link" setups that will do the same thing so this isn't the only way for the rear end. I know the K-Member and tubular a-arm with coil overs are the "sexy" way to go cuz it looks good. But for limited $$$, spend the money on the rear first. Trust me, your car will handle like it has an IRS setup. Then save your cheese for a bigger brake kit like the Cobra R Brembo set. Then do the front K/C-O work. O0

Good description. This is what I was saying about the bind on the rear. If you can go for changing to a 3-link, all the better.
If not, I recommend you don't switch to solid uppers. the will bind on street driving, and this leads to warping the torque box of the car.

I want bigger brakes on my car

 

[MuscleInc1320]

well i kno i cant have my car be great at everything lol but i was looking to get a suspension that will me get traction at the track as well as handle better then stock. i dont plan to fly through canyon roads all i want i a better all-a-round suspension. but i understand now that i should focus more on the rear for now until i have the money to work on the front. thanx guys you have been a big help.

 

[NYC94GT]

well i kno i cant have my car be great at everything lol but i was looking to get a suspension that will me get traction at the track as well as handle better then stock. i dont plan to fly through canyon roads all i want i a better all-a-round suspension. but i understand now that i should focus more on the rear for now until i have the money to work on the front. thanx guys you have been a big help.

The torque arm/Panard bar set up will give you a harder launch than the typical 4 link stock suspension on the Stang. You won't need the quads either. Do the rear man, then brakes... you'll be satisfied! I think you can even use the tubular a-arms in the front with the stock K... Saving weight, but u'll have to run coil overs... :naughty:

 

[MuscleInc1320]

as for brakes go what is better cross drilled rotors or slotted?

 

[96sohc]

Slotted or brembo blanks; cross-drilling is a waste of time.

 

[Paul]

For all out race applications, blanks is the only way to go. Slotting and cross-drilling only provides a stress-riser in the rotor where a crack can start. Modern pads do not out-gas like "back in the day" and do not need slotting/drilling to work effectively.

That being said, slotted/drilled looks neato and will work fine for 99.9% of cars.

Paul.

 

[MuscleInc1320]

so neither one is better then the other its just a matter of choice?? and if they are really any better then why are most aftermarket brake upgrade kits cross drilled or slotted?

 

[NYC94GT]

Slotted or brembo blanks; cross-drilling is a waste of time.

Slotted are good. They tend not to stress crack around the grooves unlike the holes. But to say Croos-drilled is a waste is not correct. They just have more drawbacks. I would go with the Cobra R setup, or for less cheese go with the twin-piston Cobra kit. I think it is $500 or so.
BTW, I bought my Griggs K-Member on ebay a few years ago for $300!! Brand friggin' NEW! So you can swing it. :banana:

 

[MuscleInc1320]

alright cool deal man

 

[ranger50toy]

To reduce unsprung weight.

 

[Spd0lit]

On your budget i would do wat i did. Mine needed a little refresh to so i did strange 10-ways($360), MM LCAs($370), ford c-springs($120), and MM full length SFC($170)+install. That all should be around $1100 so you still have some chash left over for something else. It will really change your car and be in your budget. Its a great bang for the buck. and when you go to the track your can adjust the shocks for a better launch and when you head home you just set it back to five all around good to go. Hope this will help you.

 

[MuscleInc1320]

i'll check into that setup thanx