KillNThrill24
Legend
Damn dude now that we can see the damage.. that's not bad at all! A pain in the ass for sure to get that main support either re worked or replaced but overall shouldn't be terribly hard! You'll have her up and running in no time
the momstang rebuild begins TOOK A TRIP AROUND THE BLOCK!
- Thread starter ttocs
- Start date
OP
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ttocs
Post Whore
it will be a good learning experience and it will hit the streets lookin badder then ever. Going to wire tuck the drivers side, flush the shinoda chin and s281 spoilers, get rid of that stupid antenna.
Anyone have a link to those panels to weld into the engine bay after tucking everything?
Also what would be a fair price offer on a good set of fenders, bumper cover and air bags?
Anyone have a link to those panels to weld into the engine bay after tucking everything?
Also what would be a fair price offer on a good set of fenders, bumper cover and air bags?
I'd say 300 or less for all those parts.
Glad to see you hit the ground running Scott. Wtf happened to our luck this year =/
Glad to see you hit the ground running Scott. Wtf happened to our luck this year =/
OP
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ttocs
Post Whore
$300 for a bumper cover, fender and airbags? I would expect the bags alone to cost that....
From my local boneyard I would probably walk out with all of that for 150 or less lol
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ttocs
Post Whore
so I hit my first snag today. Was to the point I thought I was ready to pull the fender off when I realized I had a problem. The side exhaust skirts are mounted to th fenders. They put them on with panel bonding adhesive as well as some screws on the front leading/top edge that they then covered to ensure that it is held on completely. So I realize that I will need to cut the fender off and weld the new one in at the point where I cut this one. So my question is, where should I cut the fender at? I put the tape up where I thought would be about the best but idunno. The shop I am going to pull the frame is just around the corner so I will probably drop in too see what they say but was just curious if anyone here had an idea....
the5.ohh
Legend
The line you got it at is good. You'd want to have the flat piece to weld together to another fender not the part that curves down. Just seems like it'd be easier and most likely look better anyways.
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ttocs
Post Whore
That is what I was thinking is that it would be easier to blend the two panels at that point as well as reducing the area needed to be cut/welded.
Deeper though - do I need to take the fender off to take the door off? IF so I will probably go ahead and proactively swap the hinges out since I will be adding some weight to the doors with the stereo and while they are not sagging now I do not want to have to cut the fenders off next year to swap them out when they do start to sag.
But if I can take them off with the fenders on, no worries...
Deeper though - do I need to take the fender off to take the door off? IF so I will probably go ahead and proactively swap the hinges out since I will be adding some weight to the doors with the stereo and while they are not sagging now I do not want to have to cut the fenders off next year to swap them out when they do start to sag.
But if I can take them off with the fenders on, no worries...
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ttocs
Post Whore
The bumper is all messed up with the crush points doing what they are made to do. unless you mean the hole his exhaust poked right in the middle?
ahh i see. yea i was just wondering if it was just scratched up real bad or jacked all up. these bumpers are so flexible too so you must have hit pretty dam good. did your airbag fuuk you up at all? my stepmom busted her mouth and nose from the airbag exploding in her face.
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ttocs
Post Whore
The drivers side was just crushed as it took the worst of it. The bag hit me in the face but it really wasn't that hard of a hit and I was braced well on the wheel. Thankfully the new maui jim shades I just got kept the bag off of my eyes as I didn't really realize what was happening till I focused in on the pattern of the airbag now 1" away from my eye on the sunglass lense. Was amazed that they made it through it with out even a mark on the lense nor a bend on the frame.... I have already been going around the last month amazed at how well everything looked through them so now to see they can take a beating, I might have found a replacement for my other fav brand revo.
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ttocs
Post Whore
Hey also curious what radiator do you recomend? And is there a better looking overflow tank then the stock one? I have seen some metal tanks that looked cool, at least cooler then the stock tank.... Anyone have a recommendation for that?
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ttocs
Post Whore
Does the fender need to come off to take the door off?
What radiator is recommended?
What radiator is recommended?
KillNThrill24
Legend
If your replacing the radiator and feel like spending the extra money might as well go with a Mishimoto
I do not think the fender has to come off to remove the door, but seeing as I've never removed a door from these cars I can't say for sure. Should just be able to fit a wrench on the hinge where it attaches to the body and remove the bolts. Don't quote me on that tho
And I dropped the hood of my car on my Oakley's not once but twice lol... And they're still fine. And I've done maaaany other stupid things to them and only a few scratches in the lenses. Definitely worth the extra money
I do not think the fender has to come off to remove the door, but seeing as I've never removed a door from these cars I can't say for sure. Should just be able to fit a wrench on the hinge where it attaches to the body and remove the bolts. Don't quote me on that tho
And I dropped the hood of my car on my Oakley's not once but twice lol... And they're still fine. And I've done maaaany other stupid things to them and only a few scratches in the lenses. Definitely worth the extra money
if youre replacing your radiator go with a becool, afco, or LFP.
as for where to cut that fender, do it in the "flattest" spot possible in order to make the grinding/sanding/filing easier.
as for where to cut that fender, do it in the "flattest" spot possible in order to make the grinding/sanding/filing easier.
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ttocs
Post Whore
That is what I was thinkin... If anyone has taken the doors off for sure and can confirm the fender doesn't come off that would be great. Looking at the passenger side unless it got flexed outward it looks to be ok. More then a few names in radiators there but if you had to pick one, which would it be? Was wanting to go look at the parts car today but a friend that has salvaged a couple of mustangs said he would stop by too see if he could help make an suggestions. Waited all day and of course he never came by. Going tomorrow for sure then....
Also curious about the scot rod engine panels.
http://scottrodfab.com/sn95mustang.html
you guys recommend the frame rail covers right?
Also curious about the scot rod engine panels.
http://scottrodfab.com/sn95mustang.html
you guys recommend the frame rail covers right?
what do you mean by the fender doesnt come off?
the fender has i want to say 4 or 5 or so bolts holding it.
2 inside the door-jam between the front of the door and the fender.
2 under the front, top, of the front bumper cover.
1 behind the headlight/corner light.
1 or 2 in the kicker-panel corner
if you want to get really detailed, you can drill out the rivet holding in the wheel-well over and remove that as well.
i suggest the frame rail cover if you properly take care of that rust-hell located there from the battery. lol.
the fender has i want to say 4 or 5 or so bolts holding it.
2 inside the door-jam between the front of the door and the fender.
2 under the front, top, of the front bumper cover.
1 behind the headlight/corner light.
1 or 2 in the kicker-panel corner
if you want to get really detailed, you can drill out the rivet holding in the wheel-well over and remove that as well.
i suggest the frame rail cover if you properly take care of that rust-hell located there from the battery. lol.
OP
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ttocs
Post Whore
as I said above the my side exhaust skirts have been screwed into/bonded too the back section of the fender, right behind the front wheel. It isn't an option to separate them there at that joint because they sunk screws into it, and then covered them up. Because of this I am trying to confirm if I need to remove the fender to take the doors off as if that is the case I will want to swap the hinges while I have the fenders off/cut prior to welding them back on.
Again anyone know if the frame-rail covers are needed/recomended on the scot rod panels? Also not sure what rad is best. Thought I heard mishimoto was having some issues not long ago?
Again anyone know if the frame-rail covers are needed/recomended on the scot rod panels? Also not sure what rad is best. Thought I heard mishimoto was having some issues not long ago?
Marvin97
Well-Known Member
Scott what color bags are you looking for? I still have everything off my car minus the front bumper and headlights. I have a new headlight support panel, both fenders, good stock radiator, and a good set of tan airbags. I'm about 30mins from Bowling Green, Ky.
