the momstang rebuild begins TOOK A TRIP AROUND THE BLOCK!

evilcw311

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the momstang rebuild begins IT STARTED!

Spring goes down, cone goes up. If it has pressure it means the thermostat isn’t opening. May have air behind the thermostat. Need to make sure all air is out of the system


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YES! I jacked the front end up and went to burp the system and for some reason this time it worked. It held nice and solid at 185 - till the upper hose on the radiator popped off. I saw it was seeping a bit and went to get a screw driver to tighten it up and by the time I got back it popped. So I am letting it cool down and will burp it again and then I might just test the brakes tonight.
 

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Glad to hear it was the problem. Sucks that the hose popped off.

But regardless, it’s progress in the right direction.


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traced all my connections and they were ok. For some reason I was only getting 2.2 v from the hp to activate the relay for the fan. After digging around in the software I noticed that some things were not right. Long story but after switching some stuff on the software I uploaded the tune and the fan turned on. After that I was really excited to see that it was holding solid now at 190 degrees and the idle was a approx 850 rpms. I put the front end down and started to roll it down the driveway. I could tell the brakes were softer then I liked and with the new gears and new motor upgrades I was trying to baby it and naturally bogged it and killed it. When I went to start it the starter was slow for a few cranks and then I heard a fuse pop and lost all power. The fuse that blew was 2 100 amp fuses that make up the main power fuse for my starting battery. I replaced them and then the starter would only make a clicking noise. I wacked it with a wrench a few times but nothing changed and it was getting dark so I pushed it back into the garage and will start to investigate that tomorrow.
 
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I had two high current fuses that blew and I replaced but the starter is still VERY slow to crank and its wanting to pop a 175 amp fuse on the starter wire..... The starter is new but I pulled it to see if there was anything obvious but there was not. Any way to test it?
 

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Autozone has a bench tester.

Have you looked up how many cranking amps a starter generally uses??


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can't say that I have. I just remembered we have an alternator/starter shop not far away that I am sure can test it. figures I was 2 mins away from it just 2 hours ago...
 

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It’s probably around 200amps if I remember correctly.


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it was not drawing that much prior to killing it in the driveway. It cranked up just fine for all those months.
 

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Most v8 starters range 200-250. Anything above that generally means the brushes are burning out. Only way you’d be pulling less is if you have a high torque mini starter. They’re designed to use less amperage and make more torque. They only start to pull more amperage in high compression motors.




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my fear is it isn't the starter going slow as much as something else that is bound up slowing it down and drawing current. Like I said it didn't have cranking problems prior to that moment. Oil pressure and everything looked normal right up till then. If the starter checks out I am going to get fresh oil and see what the old stuff looks like and maybe take the belt off and make sure the alt/vortech and all the accessories are still turning free.
 
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tested the starter and it was good. I was afraid that one of the accessories on the front was bound up so I took off the supercharger belt and was happy to see it still spinning free. So then I took off the serpentine belt and then was not really surprised to see that he alternator was bound up. The other day I happen to notice it was HOT as hell and was afraid it meant a bearing or something was going out. Looks like I might have been right. Data log shows it was charging fine right up till the end so hopefully I can get a new bearing at the alternator shop tomorrow and try it again.
 

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the momstang rebuild begins IT STARTED!

That will definitely do it. I wonder why though?!?

How tight was the belt tension?!?

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tension was tight enough but not crazy. Not sure exactly we have an pretty good hometown alternator shop not far away I will see if they can give any info on what might have caused it. Probably just a bad bearing but the alt is easy enough to get to.
 

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Just sucks cause it has no warranty and technically it’s still new.


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some people might say I am slow because it takes me 8 days to do an oil change, I like to think I am just dedicated and very thorough in the process. I finally got out into the garage for the first time in a week to see where I was last week. Finished up the oil change and then bled the brakes again. I have a little more pedal feel now but when I finished up it was dark outside. So keep your fingers crossed and I will see how it rolls tomorrow, and more then likely find a new problem to fix...
 

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