Trey "TxCobrA98"'s Forged Internal Rebuild + Vortech - Update Pg 3

TxCobrA98 · Jul 7, 2009

Re: Trey "TxCobrA98"'s Forged Internal Rebuild + Vortech - Update Page 2

im probably gonna go with just the silver, possibly paint it red like Jeff said. thanks for all the opinions though guys.

Off the motor, it looks great. the goldish bronze color but nothing would match when its actually on the engine.

can't wait till the motor is installed. any break in tips on the motor? '99 or '01 4v teksid block... forged internals, stock cobra cams, pocket ported B-heads, new rings, new main and rod clevite bearings, stock re-machined and re-balanced crank, JE forged pistons and Eagle H-beam rods rated to 1000hp+... vortech s-trim v2 at 12lbs of boost going on after 1500mile break in period.

TxCobrA98 · Jul 7, 2009

Re: Trey "TxCobrA98"'s Forged Internal Rebuild + Vortech - Update Page 2

fyi, if anyone can help..

The crankshaft end play was at .0065"... if i just kinda pushed on it. if i really pushed the crank over side to side, it would hit .1 to put .120 or so... sean hyland motorsports said .008 to .012 was acceptable.. im just no sure if im doing the crank end play measurement correctly.. so if anyone could help, that would be awesome.

the side to side rod cap (inbetween rod caps) clearance was .015"ish, varying rod to rod.. i torqued the main inner ARP main cap stud-nuts to 60ft/lbs and the outers to 25ft/bls, with the side cap bolts to 30ft/lbs + 90 degrees... let me konw what you guys think.

also, the rod cap bolts were bolted to 43ft/lbs.. they are specially made Eagle ARP2000 bolts just for Eagle's specs (according to Eagles website.. i torqued them to 43ftlbs - 5x to get the proper rod bolt stretch, even though i lack a stretch gauge. help?)

thanks guys.. any help is appreciated.

Steven · Jul 7, 2009

Re: Trey "TxCobrA98"'s Forged Internal Rebuild + Vortech - Update Page 2

hell yea trey. She's coming along. Your doing some good work buddy

95PGTTech · Jul 7, 2009

Re: Trey "TxCobrA98"'s Forged Internal Rebuild + Vortech - Update Page 2

[TxCobrA98 said:
]
fyi, if anyone can help..

The crankshaft end play was at .065"... if i just kinda pushed on it. if i really pushed the crank over side to side, it would hit .1 to put .120 or so... sean hyland motorsports said .008 to .012 was acceptable.. im just no sure if im doing the crank end play measurement correctly.. so if anyone could help, that would be awesome.

the side to side rod cap (inbetween rod caps) clearance was .015"ish, varying rod to rod.. i torqued the main inner ARP main cap stud-nuts to 60ft/lbs and the outers to 25ft/bls, with the side cap bolts to 30ft/lbs + 90 degrees... let me konw what you guys think.

also, the rod cap bolts were bolted to 43ft/lbs.. they are specially made Eagle ARP2000 bolts just for Eagle's specs (according to Eagles website.. i torqued them to 43ftlbs - 5x to get the proper rod bolt stretch, even though i lack a stretch gauge. help?)

thanks guys.. any help is appreciated.

did you use the two prybar method in the FSM?

95KBGT · Jul 7, 2009

Re: Trey "TxCobrA98"'s Forged Internal Rebuild + Vortech - Update Page 2

very impressive trey!

TxCobrA98 · Jul 7, 2009

Re: Trey "TxCobrA98"'s Forged Internal Rebuild + Vortech - Update Page 2

FSM? ford service manual? lol idk what FSM means. and yes i did the two prybars, but im not sure how much pressure im supposed to put on the crank to get the correct reading. if i just nudge the crank back and forth, it reads .0065" but if i put a bit more pressure on it, i can get it to .010" or so.

and thanks everyone for the words. im doin what i can!

Dalamar · Jul 7, 2009

Re: Trey "TxCobrA98"'s Forged Internal Rebuild + Vortech - Update Page 2

Yes FSM is the service manager. PGTech and his fancy ford termonology. lol.

break in depends on your rings, I'd check with your parts supplier.
Newer good rings break in on the dyno, others take longer. so it depends on the part.

TxCobrA98 · Jul 7, 2009

Re: Trey "TxCobrA98"'s Forged Internal Rebuild + Vortech - Update Page 2

well, the rings is the only part of the build i didn't do. my machinist helped me out in doing that because i told him i was unsure and didn't have a ring filer or anything, so i guess ill just ask him.

thanks for the info though Jeff!

uncltrvlnmatt · Jul 7, 2009

Re: Trey "TxCobrA98"'s Forged Internal Rebuild + Vortech - Update Page 2

When checking end play, you don't put any extra presure on it. You want to check the "free travel". There may be different size thrust washers. I would check that before you did any sanding.

Did you plastigauge your rod and main bearings? If you didn't you should. Especially since your end play is a tad on the tight side.

It is nice to see somebody actually checking that stuff. Rookie engine builders useually don't take that extra step. They are in to much of a hurry. Props to you for doing it.

BruhBrahBrad · Jul 7, 2009

Re: Trey "TxCobrA98"'s Forged Internal Rebuild + Vortech - Update Page 2

The dress up stuff you did is just awesome...

BruhBrahBrad · Jul 7, 2009

Re: Trey "TxCobrA98"'s Forged Internal Rebuild + Vortech - Update Page 2

And I say keep the gold snake.

duh09 · Jul 7, 2009

Re: Trey "TxCobrA98"'s Forged Internal Rebuild + Vortech - Update Page 2

GOLD SNAKE FTW

i still tihnk it looks awesome.

95PGTTech · Jul 7, 2009

Re: Trey "TxCobrA98"'s Forged Internal Rebuild + Vortech - Update Page 2

ford service manual, correct

TxCobrA98 · Jul 7, 2009

Re: Trey "TxCobrA98"'s Forged Internal Rebuild + Vortech - Update Page 2

Matt, thank you for clearing that up on the end play. i am reallllly hoping this motor will last me any sort of time so im doing everything I can. I got a couple questions though.

1) Would you guys suggest, make the end play a bit looser or what?

2) Since I did an IMRC delete, should I go have the IMRC's turned off in my tune, even when im breaking in the motor or just wait to break the motor in then do a brand new fresh tune?

3) Does anyone know the correct way to break in my engine? Or should I call my machinist or tuner?

and about the plastigage, i did not do that. only reason is because my machinist said he already checked it all out for me. so i didn't do it.

thanks for all the kind words though guys, im reallllllly anxious to get this car going anddd get the blower on! whooo

uncltrvlnmatt · Jul 8, 2009

Re: Trey "TxCobrA98"'s Forged Internal Rebuild + Vortech - Update Page 2

[TxCobrA98 said:
]
Matt, thank you for clearing that up on the end play. i am reallllly hoping this motor will last me any sort of time so im doing everything I can. I got a couple questions though.

1) Would you guys suggest, make the end play a bit looser or what?

2) Since I did an IMRC delete, should I go have the IMRC's turned off in my tune, even when im breaking in the motor or just wait to break the motor in then do a brand new fresh tune?

3) Does anyone know the correct way to break in my engine? Or should I call my machinist or tuner?

and about the plastigage, i did not do that. only reason is because my machinist said he already checked it all out for me. so i didn't do it.

thanks for all the kind words though guys, im reallllllly anxious to get this car going anddd get the blower on! whooo

1) If your crank end play is within spec leave it alone. If it is tight you should get it as close as you can. Since .08-.12 is your spec and you are at .065 I would losen it up a tad bit.

2) If you don't turn off the IMRC's you will throw a code.

3) Change your break in oil at about 100-200 miles, then again at 1000 miles. After that change at your normal intervals. I have been told several different things about break in periods. The guy who built my 428CJ told me take it to the track and run it. Other people have told me take it easy for the 1st 1000 miles, give everything a chance to seat properly. The problem is that some times you need to run it, to get the rings and all to seat properly.

When I was building Mack Truck engines I would let them sit outside running at about 1200-1500rpm's for about an hour or two. That was to check for leaks and break in. The next day the driver would be pulling 80k trailers. I never had one break.

On the otherhand, I rebuilt a 289. the car would not idle after 100 miles because the rings did not seat properly. So I took her out and beat on it. At about 1500 miles a valve spring keeper let go and made my engine junk.

Now I don't know if that was because I beat on it, or it was a faulty part for sure. But I lean towards a faulty $.50 part.

Steven · Jul 8, 2009

Re: Trey "TxCobrA98"'s Forged Internal Rebuild + Vortech - Update Page 2

When we build a motor, unless the cam has a break in, we go out and beat on it. If it's going to blow, it's going to blow in front of my house.

95PGTTech · Jul 8, 2009

Re: Trey "TxCobrA98"'s Forged Internal Rebuild + Vortech - Update Page 2

I'm a big believer in take it easy for a few miles while you check everything over for leaks, then start making half throttle pulls in the middle gears and then letting it coast down. It keeps the motor in high vacuum situations and supposedly it helps seat the rings, there was a good writeup around somewhere I will try and find it by some very knowledgeable guys on Corral. To me, it's a fair compromise between baby it and beat it. I've built a few 6 cyl mazda 2.5L motors and broke them in that way and not had an issue yet. I'm going to try the same on my modular in a few weeks and see what happens (in fact, I started the rebuild due to a low-compression-rings issue).

TxCobrA98 · Jul 8, 2009

Re: Trey "TxCobrA98"'s Forged Internal Rebuild + Vortech - Update Page 2

awesome, thanks everyone for the help. I will probably call my tuner to find out how he doesn't and get a few more ideas on the proper way.

Me and my dad are going outside now to sand the engine bay down to repaint it, I guess we will also try and fix the thrust washer so the end play is in spec.

Thanks everyone, updates tonight!

TxCobrA98 · Jul 8, 2009

Re: Trey "TxCobrA98"'s Forged Internal Rebuild + Vortech - Update Page 2

okay well i just called my tuner to find out how to break in the motor correctly.

he basically just said make sure the cooling system is bled and fresh, fill it up from the crossover tube. then let the car idle for a while and monitor the temperature of the car to make sure theres no air bubbles in the lines. after its good to go, let it cool down a bit. once its cooled down, go out and drive it. give it 1/4 throttle runs up to 4k rpm and let the motor come down on its own to create some vacuum. then 1/2 throttle to 5k rpm and let the motor come down on its own again, do it a few times and everything should be seated. run 10w30 non synthetic oil, change at a 1000miles i think he said but run non synthetic for about 10k miles. seems like a long time to me but hes built lots of cobras soo..

what do you guys think?