Trey "TxCobrA98"'s Forged Internal Rebuild + Vortech - Update Pg 3

[uncltrvlnmatt]

Re: Trey "TxCobrA98"'s Forged Internal Rebuild + Vortech - Update Page 2

Yes he is right about useing regular oil. If you use synthetic it won't break in properly.

 

[TxCobrA98]

Re: Trey "TxCobrA98"'s Forged Internal Rebuild + Vortech - Update Page 2

i just thought 10k miles of non synthetic sounded like a long time. but im going to take his word. and i may have them break it in on their dyno and do a new dyno tune at the same time. im calling HPP back tomorrow as well as picking up the heads i believe.

 

[95PGTTech]

Re: Trey "TxCobrA98"'s Forged Internal Rebuild + Vortech - Update Page 2

I think he's a genius. Sounds exactly like what I said
At the 1000 mile oil change is when I'd be comfortable getting it dyno'd with the blower.
All our builds at JDM they would leave on a low boost setting and come back at 1000 miles. Change the oil, check compression and leakdown, put the power into it.

 

[TxCobrA98]

Re: Trey "TxCobrA98"'s Forged Internal Rebuild + Vortech - Update Page 2

alright, cool PGTTech, I appreciate the info. youve helped me quite a bit throughout this build so i thank you.

and glad everything sounds right, I may actually get it broken in on HPP dyno and get it tuned after its broken in.

 

[AaRoN]

Re: Trey "TxCobrA98"'s Forged Internal Rebuild + Vortech - Update Page 2

Your end play is fine. Plastigauge is pretty much for quality control only. It's not necessary but if you have any doubts then you can double check with it. As for breaking the engine in, use cheap oil at first. I know Royal Purple makes a specific break-in oil (don't know a price). I'd just use regular oil for the first 500 miles or so and then change it. Take it easy at first though till those piston rings seat properly.

 

[Spooling2Valve]

Re: Trey "TxCobrA98"'s Forged Internal Rebuild + Vortech - Update Page 2

sweet build! can't wait to see the engine in the car.

 

[95PGTTech]

Re: Trey "TxCobrA98"'s Forged Internal Rebuild + Vortech - Update Page 2

Your end play is fine. Plastigauge is pretty much for quality control only. It's not necessary but if you have any doubts then you can double check with it. As for breaking the engine in, use cheap oil at first. I know Royal Purple makes a specific break-in oil (don't know a price). I'd just use regular oil for the first 500 miles or so and then change it. Take it easy at first though till those piston rings seat properly.

break in oils just have a high zinc content.

 

[Paul]

Re: Trey "TxCobrA98"'s Forged Internal Rebuild + Vortech - Update Page 2

]
and about the plastigage, i did not do that. only reason is because my machinist said he already checked it all out for me. so i didn't do it.

If you still have access to the motor, I'd plastigauge it. Don't trust anyone. The only way you can truly feel comfortable with the build is to check EVERYTHING yourself. I did it on my motor, and I'm glad I did.

As for the endplay, keep in mind that if the car has a stickshift, you're going to be thrusting the whole rotating assembly forward with a lever (clutch pedal) attached to a cable - so make sure your tolerances are right with some decent pressure applied via a prybar.

What was your ring clearance?

The break-in methods mentioned seem fine to me.

 

[TxCobrA98]

Re: Trey "TxCobrA98"'s Forged Internal Rebuild + Vortech - Update Page 2

i just read that a end play tolerance of .006 to .012 is acceptable for the 4.6L engines. today, we got my crank free end play to .007" - .0075"ish. If I really pry it, it will get up to about .009" - .010" of end play.

Also, I asked my machinist if he had plastigage'd it or if I still needed to and he said he already had torqued everything down and gage'd it and everything is in spec as it is. The ring clearance has also been done by my machinist as well as I had him file fit my rings for me because I have no idea how to do it.

And thank you guys for all of your help, honestly, it's helping out tons for me and my dad! So far, im having a blast doing this build.

UPDATE
June 11, 2009

Today, me and my dad got a bit done. We had a few errands to run so it kind of cut into our day but im not in to big of a hurry, I just wanna take my time and get the car done at a good pace. I feel I rush sometimes and im glad my dad helps me see that it will all come together in time, just be patient. So, im really enjoying everything so far.

Anyways, today, my dad and I got the short block finished. We got the pickup tube on, oil pan, and heads on today, which is all torqued down and ready to go. I suspect we will be finished with the engine tomorrow and ready to lower it into the car. Im getting pretty excited to hear the car fire up and on the rollers, just so I can tear back into the car and install the vortech!

PICS!

Rebuilt, machined, pocket ported heads!

top side of head

valve side of head

4v =D

size comparison of these massive heads.. wow! 2 - 1 gallon paint buckets

pickup tube installed

head gaskets, multi layered steel felpro's

heads torqued down to 80 ftlbs - we had to go get a new torque wrench as ours stops at 80ftlbs and my dad said he was taught in the military not to use a torque wrench within 20% of its max/min amount. so, we got a new (to us) snap-on dial torque wrench. pretty cool.

 

[Steven]

Re: Trey "TxCobrA98"'s Forged Internal Rebuild + Vortech - Update Page 2

looking good buddy. Should only be a matter of time.

 

[TxCobrA98]

Re: Trey "TxCobrA98"'s Forged Internal Rebuild + Vortech - Update Page 2

Update

July 22, 2009

Okay guys, been a while since my last update. I finally have the engine in and tranny bolted up! Now, i only have little things to put on like AC compressor, power steering pump, fuel rails, upper intake, electric fan, cooling system, coils, plugs, wires, fluids, exhaust, wheels, EGR lines. so im nearly done!

the engine looks great though, with all of the black powdercoated pieces. im still unsure of how I am going to break the engine in yet but im will figure this out probably tomorrow. anyways, hope everyone enjoys the pics. read the captions for more info!

Timing chains on and engine timing complete

the new-to-us snap-on torque wrench we bought for 70 bucks. i liked the dial indicator on it and it was a snap-on so if it ever breaks, we can get a new one! anyways, we bought this because our other torque wrench didn't go high enough as explained earlier.

my dad bleeding the old oil out of the last adjusters

oil cooler and motor mounts installed

passenger side solid motor mount

knock sensors installed and coolant crossover tube

dirty throttle body

cleaned throttle body

polished it up slightly with 3 stages of steel wool.. didn't really try and make it a mirror finish, just cleaned it up.

valve spring compressor tool i ordered (that doesn't work worth a s***) - i just ended up undoing all the timing chain assemblies and taking the intake cams off and putting the rocker arms in and bolting the cam back down. the tool only worked on the exhaust cams and valves.

lash adjusters soaking in oil

compressing the exhaust valves to put the rocker arms in

new high volume oil pump installed

timing chain cover installed, along with polished up belt tensioner, and harmonic balancer installed with new ARP crank bolt torqued down to 125ftlbs i believe is what it was? the stock crank bolts are prone to failing, hence the new ARP bolt.

valve covers installed after they had been cleaned up and put back together to make sure no foreign material was in them

WHOOO! no IMRC's! watch for an IMRC delete HOW TO coming soon!

yummmy!

cleannnn IMO

billit aluminum flywheel bolted and torqued down. bolts are torqued in a criss-cross patter a turn or two at a time, until torqued.

SPEC Stage 3 clutch installed - bolted and torqued down, also in a criss-cross pattern

more pics in the morning, i dont feel like editting a posting the others up right now. hope you guys enjoy!

 

[BruhBrahBrad]

Yayyy!!!

 

[Brian95SVT]

Trey you are a lucky SOB. I can't wait to see when it's done. New videos!!


Text me and keep in touch.

 

[TxCobrA98]

werd man, i will. and im super excited, so excited that i woke up at 8:30 to start working haha. i want to finish today!

 

[Brian95SVT]

Hell yeah! haha

I wonder how much you will put down. How many lbs of boost you going to run with that built bottom end?

 

[Dalamar]

Great progress Trey!
Love the black covers. looking good!!

 

[white95]

looking good bro!!

 

[TxCobrA98]

I wonder how much you will put down. How many lbs of boost you going to run with that built bottom end?

im hoping ill put down 290+ on motor since that what it dyno'd at over the winter. I didn't really change anything besides IMRC delete, new bearings, and pocket ported the heads. on the supercharger im hoping to put down over 500+ with IMRC delete, ported heads, and 12lbs of boost.

 

[AaRoN]

Awesome work! Nice attention to detail and the motor looks really good.

 

[white95]

]

I wonder how much you will put down. How many lbs of boost you going to run with that built bottom end?

im hoping ill put down 290+ on motor since that what it dyno'd at over the winter. I didn't really change anything besides IMRC delete, new bearings, and pocket ported the heads. on the supercharger im hoping to put down over 500+ with IMRC delete, ported heads, and 12lbs of boost.

she'll make a little more power once the rings seat and the overall tightness of a fresh engine subsides