VIDEO ADDED!-Car won't idle right...can't figure it out..

OnyxCobra

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If it was something like the PIP or ignition module would that cause any issue with the car not wanting to turn over? it seems like it should crank fine but never start up if that was the case. It sounds like more than one thing to me, unless it was something big like the ECU that controls everything.
 
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ElrodKTPQ_89

ElrodKTPQ_89

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I think I'll go ahead and replace the distributor anyway and see what results that brings. The car had been sitting for about two years before I got it, and there was no cap on the distributor, and it was full of all kinds of trash and junk. When I rebuilt everything, I took it apart and cleaned everything with electrical contact cleaner and got it as clean as I possibly could, but there is a great chance that it was only good enough to run for a few times then crap out. I think I'd feel better having a new distributor now anyway, since everything else has been replaced.
 
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ElrodKTPQ_89

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I ordered a new distributor today, will be here Monday. Hope to hell it solves my problems! And also I have no clue what the PIP is you guys have mentioned...can someone enlighten me as to what it is and what it actually does?
 

CC'S95GT

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I ordered a new distributor today, will be here Monday. Hope to hell it solves my problems! And also I have no clue what the PIP is you guys have mentioned...can someone enlighten me as to what it is and what it actually does?

PIP= profile ignition pickup.. It's the electronic piece inside of the dizzy
 
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ElrodKTPQ_89

ElrodKTPQ_89

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Got my distributor today. Despite it being in the low 30's outside this evening and the wind blowing like a sonofa*****, I got my buddy to come out and help me swap em out since I've never done it before. The first time we tried to start it it acted like it wanted to fire, then nothing. After spending a lil time messing with it we got it to do a lil better before just giving up and postponing it to a warmer day this weekend. Neither of us really wanted to go to all the trouble of pulling the #1 plug and blah blah blah. Pretty sure the timing is just off a little bit...that and I have a bad/loose ground....you could wiggle the ground cable a bit and get a better connection. Pretty sure the distributor is gonna solve my problem though, I'll find out for sure this weekend and I'll let everyone know!
 

CC'S95GT

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get the gnd cable fixed right at the same time. and take a real close look at the condition of the + cable for loose and frayed connections and for corrosion inside of the insulation.
These cars are very sensitive to gnd issues.
 
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ElrodKTPQ_89

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From what I could tell my ground is just loose at the block. I'm gonna take em loose and clean the surface up really good then tighten em up good! Positive cable looks to be in good shape, but you can never tell what's under the insulation on either one of em. If we get the car running this weekend, you can bet the battery cables will be getting replaced when it warms up just to be safe!
 

PonyGlued

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Got my distributor today. Despite it being in the low 30's outside this evening and the wind blowing like a sonofa*****, I got my buddy to come out and help me swap em out since I've never done it before. The first time we tried to start it it acted like it wanted to fire, then nothing. After spending a lil time messing with it we got it to do a lil better before just giving up and postponing it to a warmer day this weekend. Neither of us really wanted to go to all the trouble of pulling the #1 plug and blah blah blah. Pretty sure the timing is just off a little bit...that and I have a bad/loose ground....you could wiggle the ground cable a bit and get a better connection. Pretty sure the distributor is gonna solve my problem though, I'll find out for sure this weekend and I'll let everyone know!

No fun at all turning wrenches in that weather, and its been even worst here like 15f all day..burr.
 
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ElrodKTPQ_89

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Finally been able to work on this car again. I'm sure some of you saw the other thread I posted (about firing order). I finally got my grounds tightened up, and did manage to get the distributor in and get the car to fire up and run, although it still runs very rough. I haven't tried to set the timing or anything still because of how rough it idles...I have to keep my foot on the gas to keep it running at all. And the belt squeals terribly when you rev it even a little bit for some reason, sounds like it's mainly coming from the alternator. I'm still completely stumped and have been thinking of carrying it to a mechanic I know to let him work on it. I've tried everything you guys have mentioned and still can't figure it out. Any one else care to give it a shot before I bite the bullet?
 

PonyGlued

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It sounds to me as a possibility like you may have the spark wires mixed up a bit. I would double check that out and remember that the rotation is counter clockwise. How about the SPOUT connector do you have that on your car, is it connected? What's the history of this project, did you do some mechanical work on the engine or change out something like that to have the distributor out in the first place.
 
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ElrodKTPQ_89

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It sounds to me as a possibility like you may have the spark wires mixed up a bit. I would double check that out and remember that the rotation is counter clockwise. How about the SPOUT connector do you have that on your car, is it connected? What's the history of this project, did you do some mechanical work on the engine or change out something like that to have the distributor out in the first place.
I'll check the wires again this evening but pretty sure they're right. And yes I have the SPOUT removed right now. As for history of the project it's in the first post but I'll save you from going back. I bought the car needing some engine work. I had the moor rebuilt, all stock except a valve job on the heads and bored .20 over. When I started reassembly, I replaced the alternator, new coil and wires and cap n rotor, all temp sensors and sending units replaced, one (1) new o2 sensor, new act sensor, battery and starter and finally distributor. Injectors have been replaced with new rebuilt ones. Performance wise all that has been added are headers and exhaust and a K&N filter. The only things I haven't replaced yet are the IAC and Ignition control module.
 

PonyGlued

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I'll check the wires again this evening but pretty sure they're right. And yes I have the SPOUT removed right now. As for history of the project it's in the first post but I'll save you from going back. I bought the car needing some engine work. I had the moor rebuilt, all stock except a valve job on the heads and bored .20 over. When I started reassembly, I replaced the alternator, new coil and wires and cap n rotor, all temp sensors and sending units replaced, one (1) new o2 sensor, new act sensor, battery and starter and finally distributor. Injectors have been replaced with new rebuilt ones. Performance wise all that has been added are headers and exhaust and a K&N filter. The only things I haven't replaced yet are the IAC and Ignition control module.


There's your problem maybe, being connected is how the computer reads the timing. Try reconnecting it and see how she runs
 
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ElrodKTPQ_89

ElrodKTPQ_89

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There's your problem, being connected is how the computer reads the timing. Try reconnecting it and see how she runs

I thought I was supposed to remove it to set the timing? I may have missed something lol I'll stick it back in this evening and see how that does.
 

PonyGlued

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I thought I was supposed to remove it to set the timing? I may have missed something lol I'll stick it back in this evening and see how that does.

Yes you were, so that the computer could not interfere with your setting the timing, but then you would shut her down and reconnect the SPOUT/restart and check that advance is working(computer control)
 
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ElrodKTPQ_89

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Yes you were, so that the computer could not interfere with your setting the timing, but then you would shut her down and reconnect the SPOUT/restart and check that advance is working(computer control)

Don't know if you caught it in the other post, but I never did get to set the timing due to how rough it idled when I first got it to run. I can try to reconnect the spout and see if that changes though. Since I still have never replaced the ignition module, you think I should go ahead and do it just to rule it out?
 

PonyGlued

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Usually when that fails you have a no start condition, but who knows. Check the wires again and the TDC again just to make sure, and check the vacuum lines are all good
 

CC'S95GT

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if it runs then the ignition control module isn't the prob.
If you have money to buy a ICM, THEN BUY A TIMING LIGHT and a Haynes manual instead.
As long as the engine isn't back firing then you probably have the wires in the right order and your timing is still way out.
You might be able to get the timing closer just by slowly turning the dizzy by hand with the engine running and spout removed. Turn it slowly, If the idle gets better then turn it some more, If the idle gets worse or stalls then turn it back.
You really need a timing light. To do this correctly.
 

Addermk2

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Incorrect timing can, and will, cause idle problems.

Sent from my CyanMobileX Evo 4G
 

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