What Brakes you?

[wmfateam]

Clever title I might add. I am running in the Front: Hawk HP+ Raybestos R-300. Rear: Hawk HPS Raybestos R-300. With Ford High Performance Fluid. Great bite for the small autocross tracks in Arizona, but I have found their heat limits on a road course. I was at Mussleman Honda in Tucson, AZ, and I could get about 10-12 laps before the pedal starting going to the floor. Thinking of going Hawk DTC-60 in the front and HP+ in the rear and changing to Motul or Super Gold fluid. I am at 3487 race weight with me in in the car. What do you guys run?

 

[Man-child79]

Clever title I might add. I am running in the Front: Hawk HP+ Raybestos R-300. Rear: Hawk HPS Raybestos R-300. With Ford High Performance Fluid. Great bite for the small autocross tracks in Arizona, but I have found their heat limits on a road course. I was at Mussleman Honda in Tucson, AZ, and I could get about 10-12 laps before the pedal starting going to the floor. Thinking of going Hawk DTC-60 in the front and HP+ in the rear and changing to Motul or Super Gold fluid. I am at 3487 race weight with me in in the car. What do you guys run?

Girodisc 2pc front rotors, Hawk HT10 front pads, stock rear rotors and Hawk hp+ rear pads, Motul RBF660 fluid. Stock weight S197 coupe. I have beat on this set up lap after lap on the road course and have not felt a slight bit of brake fade. I will add that the car does have the FRPP brake cooling kit... I'm sure that helps a little as well. I'm no seasoned racer but I think the brake bite is pretty nice, I will go as far as saying the bite is great... every lap feels confident when I enter my braking zones.

 

[1997GT4.6]

Nothing fancy; just some Hawk HPS+ on stock rotors. Not a race car, just a slow street car.

 

[JerZeyStangz]

Planning on doing my bullitt twin piston conversion with some hawk street pads, and use super blue fluid or gold. The rotors I am getting are just brembo blanks but it does help to have vented/slotted rotors to help dissipate the heat. I would upgrade the fluid, then pads, and lastly brake assembly.

 

[RichV]

05, PowerStop pads/rotors all around, works well on street and occasional track driving.

94, NAPA blank rotors (13" and 11.65"), wilwood 4 piston with DTC-70 front, OE Varga rears with HAWK Blues.

 

[ba#97]

Clever title I might add. I am running in the Front: Hawk HP+ Raybestos R-300. Rear: Hawk HPS Raybestos R-300. With Ford High Performance Fluid. Great bite for the small autocross tracks in Arizona, but I have found their heat limits on a road course. I was at Mussleman Honda in Tucson, AZ, and I could get about 10-12 laps before the pedal starting going to the floor. Thinking of going Hawk DTC-60 in the front and HP+ in the rear and changing to Motul or Super Gold fluid. I am at 3487 race weight with me in in the car. What do you guys run?

is your car a gt? gt brakes? the pads you have are fine for track use. blank rotors are also fine for hpde use and autocross. the issue that is causing your pedal to go to the floor is a mix of the fluid you're using (I use Motul 600 and have never had issues with fade) and if you get into seriously running the car hard into corners you NEED....I mean NEED brake cooling ducts. I'm running Hawk blacks all around on powerslot slotted rotors and I've had no issues other than some minor fade but the pedal was not losing it's feel. I'm planning on switching to dtc 70's up front and 60's in the rear next with some blank rotors. I hear you can snooker them into replacing them under warranty a few times before they get wise as to why you're changing rotors every couple of months. lol.

 

[wmfateam]

is your car a gt? gt brakes? the pads you have are fine for track use. blank rotors are also fine for hpde use and autocross. the issue that is causing your pedal to go to the floor is a mix of the fluid you're using (I use Motul 600 and have never had issues with fade) and if you get into seriously running the car hard into corners you NEED....I mean NEED brake cooling ducts. I'm running Hawk blacks all around on powerslot slotted rotors and I've had no issues other than some minor fade but the pedal was not losing it's feel. I'm planning on switching to dtc 70's up front and 60's in the rear next with some blank rotors. I hear you can snooker them into replacing them under warranty a few times before they get wise as to why you're changing rotors every couple of months. lol.

Forgot I didn't have a signature on this forum, it is a 1996 Cobra. I am switching brake fluid first and going to be making some ducting that will inhale from the fog light holes. I generally run a couple laps to get heat the brakes and tires, then go as deep as possible into turns for a couple laps, then try braking early and carry speed throughout. I was just being provoked by Integras and Miatas on Sunday to go balls deep 10 laps in a row. The pad upgrade is simple for me, I'd rather have it and not need it, then need it and not have it.

 

[Pete@FTR]

Right now the car is on stock size brakes w/ slotted rotors and hawk pads.

Working on a couple brake setups and will be going to the track in the near future to compare the following and log the differences:
12" Stock
13" Cobra w / pbr calipers
14" rotors w/ dual piston s197 calipers
13" cobra rotors w/ wilwood 4 piston
13" cobra rotors w/ wilwood 6 piston

Luckily brake adapters are pretty simple to make one-offs of so I'll hopefully get some good data of different brakes running on the same car under the same conditions.

My feeling is I'm going to be sticking with 13" dba rotors and wilwood 6 piston superlites

 

[RichV]

I will say that OE 11" PBR fronts have never let me down on track. Running Carbotech pads and coolers. Lockup with the 11" setup could always be achieved. With a 3100lb race weight and 275mm R-comp tire. No fade, all stock GT gear.

Only reason I upgraded was pad cost.

 

[Milehigh JDF]

My last track setup was EBC Yellowstuff with Powerslot rotors up front (Cobra setup) and motorcraft pads with some drilled and slotted rotors in rear courtesy of the previous owner of my IRS, and I ran Honda Dot 3 fluid (forgot to pick up Dot 4). They worked great after the initial fade.

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[ba#97]

Forgot I didn't have a signature on this forum, it is a 1996 Cobra. I am switching brake fluid first and going to be making some ducting that will inhale from the fog light holes. I generally run a couple laps to get heat the brakes and tires, then go as deep as possible into turns for a couple laps, then try braking early and carry speed throughout. I was just being provoked by Integras and Miatas on Sunday to go balls deep 10 laps in a row. The pad upgrade is simple for me, I'd rather have it and not need it, then need it and not have it.

Your pads are perfectly acceptable for track use. Like I said, the cooling is the issue not the brakes. How much experience do you have? You are just doing track days and not competition or time trials right? Cuz if that's the case if you have guys hounding you from behind....check the ego at the door and let them by. You may actually learn something from them by following. No reason to push too hard at a track day. Ask the guys on here how I learned my lesson there. As for rotors...go blank or slotted...I wouldn't recommend drilled. Cobra calipers are plenty good in my honest opinion as long as they are paired with good pads and cooling. I'm planning on going with the baer 6 piston setup up front when I have the money though, the cobra's are great for now but when I do build my motor I'll need some stopping power. They have a deal on them through svtp and having some serious braking will definitely help.

 

[the5.ohh]

Powerslot Slotted Rotors, Akebono Ceramic Pads.. Big improvement from the stock garbage, and the rotors were shot when I got the car so I can't bash the original too much

 

[RICE ETR]

I purchased my Mustang in Feb. with some pretty sketchy brakes, I went the cheap route as it's a budget build/toy. Purchased pads and rotors on all 4 corners from Part Source, 'certified' oem spec lol.

 

[RichV]

Let's keep this thread for track setups. Thanks!

 

[wmfateam]

Your pads are perfectly acceptable for track use. Like I said, the cooling is the issue not the brakes. How much experience do you have? You are just doing track days and not competition or time trials right? Cuz if that's the case if you have guys hounding you from behind....check the ego at the door and let them by. You may actually learn something from them by following. No reason to push too hard at a track day. Ask the guys on here how I learned my lesson there. As for rotors...go blank or slotted...I wouldn't recommend drilled. Cobra calipers are plenty good in my honest opinion as long as they are paired with good pads and cooling. I'm planning on going with the baer 6 piston setup up front when I have the money though, the cobra's are great for now but when I do build my motor I'll need some stopping power. They have a deal on them through svtp and having some serious braking will definitely help.

I'm pretty sure pushing your car and yourself is a part of racing. I am in HPDE 2 and going into D 3 and Time Attack at the end of this month. I have instructors and coworkers that help me with racing line. So far in my run groups I am the fastest, so I haven't had an instance where I have to let someone pass. When we did our test and tune, that's when I asked people to push me and then let me follow. Once I learn a tracks line, I push the limits to get every tenth. After all, why would I spend money to just take it easy. And after dropping $250, I don't want to find out the limits of a part that I could have spent an extra $40 on to run an entire session hard, instead of 10 laps. I agree the fluid and cooling is of utmost importance, but I'd rather have more than I need, so when I can, I can.

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[ba#97]

I'm pretty sure pushing your car and yourself is a part of racing. I am in HPDE 2 and going into D 3 and Time Attack at the end of this month. I have instructors and coworkers that help me with racing line. So far in my run groups I am the fastest, so I haven't had an instance where I have to let someone pass. When we did our test and tune, that's when I asked people to push me and then let me follow. Once I learn a tracks line, I push the limits to get every tenth. After all, why would I spend money to just take it easy. And after dropping $250, I don't want to find out the limits of a part that I could have spent an extra $40 on to run an entire session hard, instead of 10 laps. I agree the fluid and cooling is of utmost importance, but I'd rather have more than I need, so when I can, I can.

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hpde is NOT I repeat NOT racing. I'm not trying to ruffle your feathers but the ego thing is what gets people in trouble on course. you may think you're the fastest but there is still lots to learn and no harm done letting people by cuz I guarantee people are faster than you. I understand you want to go as fast as possible to push yourself but unless you're doing time attack (which you aren't yet....) get out there and learn. learning doesn't mean you have to go 100%. even in racing you don't have to go 100% the whole time. if a guy is distant in your mirrors and then all of a sudden he's up your butt....he's faster than you. if they are 'making' you push it hard for 10 laps to keep ahead...they are faster than you and if I was them and you weren't pointing me by....i'd be pretty upset because you're holding me up and I spent just as much money on my time on the track as you did. there is absolutely nothing wrong with pointing by another guy, even if it's an integra or miata. I don't think you need to take it easy persay, but instead of running 100%....run 85 or 90%, save your car, still run hard, learn and enjoy yourself. thats what hpde is for. especially hpde 2. noone out there is racing. I would not want someone trying to 'race' me at a trackday. at first I thought I was fastest on track too, but since my accident...(which happened in milliseconds and I didn't expect it at all) i've realized that I can run hard with still keeping it within the limits. now off my soap box. but as for the rest....I gave you my advice, I don't feel like your pads are limiting you at all. nor your calipers. you'll find that after you get cooling on the front of your car you should be fine.

sorry if I made you think I was ripping on you. I'm just trying to give advice from personal experience and save you a little money on brakes cuz your setup is fine. I personally have loved hawk pads....just don't go with hps cuz those will be gone in 2 track days easily.

 

[wmfateam]

hpde is NOT I repeat NOT racing. I'm not trying to ruffle your feathers but the ego thing is what gets people in trouble on course. you may think you're the fastest but there is still lots to learn and no harm done letting people by cuz I guarantee people are faster than you. I understand you want to go as fast as possible to push yourself but unless you're doing time attack (which you aren't yet....) get out there and learn. learning doesn't mean you have to go 100%. even in racing you don't have to go 100% the whole time. if a guy is distant in your mirrors and then all of a sudden he's up your butt....he's faster than you. if they are 'making' you push it hard for 10 laps to keep ahead...they are faster than you and if I was them and you weren't pointing me by....i'd be pretty upset because you're holding me up and I spent just as much money on my time on the track as you did. there is absolutely nothing wrong with pointing by another guy, even if it's an integra or miata. I don't think you need to take it easy persay, but instead of running 100%....run 85 or 90%, save your car, still run hard, learn and enjoy yourself. thats what hpde is for. especially hpde 2. noone out there is racing. I would not want someone trying to 'race' me at a trackday. at first I thought I was fastest on track too, but since my accident...(which happened in milliseconds and I didn't expect it at all) i've realized that I can run hard with still keeping it within the limits. now off my soap box. but as for the rest....I gave you my advice, I don't feel like your pads are limiting you at all. nor your calipers. you'll find that after you get cooling on the front of your car you should be fine.

sorry if I made you think I was ripping on you. I'm just trying to give advice from personal experience and save you a little money on brakes cuz your setup is fine. I personally have loved hawk pads....just don't go with hps cuz those will be gone in 2 track days easily.

No feathers ruffled here sir. I wanted feedback and appreciate it, hence why I am on a forum. And the instance where I had people pushing me from behind was not during a NASA event. It was at an open track day with maybe 10 cars. I wanted them to critique me while I was pushing hard, so they could pick a part my entries and exits so I can improve. It was with 90% NASA instructors. It was a full day event so no one was being held up and ruining their $80 track day. It was a big shifter kart course, so ten laps on that track is like 6 laps on a normal track. I also know I am not the fastest on track, I am a novice in a heavy underpowered car. But I am the fastest in my current D2 group. I don't race those guys because they are further behind me in terms of getting the racing line down and learning what their cars can do. I race the track to try and find the limits of the car. And by limits I don't mean power sliding in and out of turns or cutting corners, but finding that the car likes to be thrown into some corners and eased into others. I had an off at about 80mph, riding that paint line on the out side just a bit too much, hard brake and the car shot two tires on the gravel. Instincts just kinda kicked in and got her slowed down.

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[ba#97]

No feathers ruffled here sir. I wanted feedback and appreciate it, hence why I am on a forum. And the instance where I had people pushing me from behind was not during a NASA event. It was at an open track day with maybe 10 cars. I wanted them to critique me while I was pushing hard, so they could pick a part my entries and exits so I can improve. It was with 90% NASA instructors. It was a full day event so no one was being held up and ruining their $80 track day. It was a big shifter kart course, so ten laps on that track is like 6 laps on a normal track. I also know I am not the fastest on track, I am a novice in a heavy underpowered car. But I am the fastest in my current D2 group. I don't race those guys because they are further behind me in terms of getting the racing line down and learning what their cars can do. I race the track to try and find the limits of the car. And by limits I don't mean power sliding in and out of turns or cutting corners, but finding that the car likes to be thrown into some corners and eased into others. I had an off at about 80mph, riding that paint line on the out side just a bit too much, hard brake and the car shot two tires on the gravel. Instincts just kinda kicked in and got her slowed down.

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well back onto your brake question. as I said, the pads you have are just fine for what you're doing. don't replace em till you need to. I wouldn't worry too much about throwing tons of upgrades at the car while you're learning anyways. cobra brakes with some nice track pads (which you have) and some cooling are plenty for track days. once you're seriously running fast lap times....(verified by timing) then I'd say go for big brakes up front for sure. that is what I'm planning on doing. but till then....no need to waste the money now.

 

[RichV]

What car do you run on track wmfateam?

In our region going from HPDE2 to TT in a month is unheard of. You can't do TT unless you have a Comp License or have some long seat time in HPDE4. Just curious.

 

[wmfateam]

What car do you run on track wmfateam?

In our region going from HPDE2 to TT in a month is unheard of. You can't do TT unless you have a Comp License or have some long seat time in HPDE4. Just curious.

I currently run a 96 Cobra. Time Attack(TA) in my region is open to anyone HPDE 3 and up. For Time Trial (TT), you just need a time trial license.

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