What Did You Do To Your Car Today?

J_lope82

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I replaced all the sway bar bushings with prothane bushings. Still stock sway bar. I think it feels slightly firmer on turns.
Also purchased a tri-ax shifter and new shifter lower boot. That tri-ax is a significant improvement over the SR performance short throw shifter. Feels like a freshly rebuilt transmission, hell yeah.
 

Snorky

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Got some more progress done on the diff cooling circuit. Should keep it cool no problem.

Unfortunately just waiting on a few more quick disconnect components to arrive and then I can finish it off completely.
That's a sick setup, nice clear tails btw.. every so often I will see those and absolutely love them.
 

cobrajeff96

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That's a sick setup, nice clear tails btw.. every so often I will see those and absolutely love them.
Thanks! It was fun individually buying and piecing everything together and seeing it work as I fab'd it all up. I guess I'm a sucker for difficult work on project Stangs.

I'll try one day to do some kind of sequential LED for the rear tails but just looking at it I don't know if it's possible. To do it right you shouldn't be able to see the PCBs or wires, only the glow or the individual lights. It's so clear in there and the window size is so big I just don't know if any of that's possible. But we'll see.
 

apsmith49921

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I have some C-head valve covers along with some coil covers, though they are all chrome plated.
Appreciate it. Unfortunately I'm not a chrome fan. Ebay has them for about 200 bucks I just figured I could do a little better than that.
 

TRS666

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Was supposed to take it to paintshop tomorrow to get bumpers and hood repainted. It has been standing for over a month on trickle charger. Turns round good but no start.
Sprayed some startgas in TB and started right up but died also directly. No priming sound so fuel pump. Put in some 2 stroke oil in tank to help the pumps bearings a little and got it running for some 5 minutes. Then it died for good. No paint job tomorrow!
Just the bare pump costs like $300 here, the whole assembly is $900 so Rock Auto next.
Thinking of it, i had a problem with the car running lean during summer, maybe the pump was acting up ten already.
 
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07GtS197

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Does anyone know the size and thread pitch the bolt that holds the stock airbox to the fender is? Mines missing and I need it now of course.
 

weendoggy

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I sat in it and then drove to breakfast, came home, and got out. I'm getting ready for my projects and need to run some fuel out. I know I can siphon, but driving is more fun.
 

cobrajeff96

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It's coming together boys 'n girls!

Not much more work to do before this thing is finally road worthy.

The latest push is to complete the differential cooling circuit. You'll see from the photos the usage of quick disconnects (or dry breaks as some call them) throughout the setup so that future maintenance is far easier, quicker, and cleaner. Specifically, I can take down the diff independent of everything if needed. Also can take down the entire subframe (with or without the diff in there) if needed, and no fluid is lost in any route taken and nothing interferes with anything else. In other words, no component or subsystem has any dependencies on anything else for any reason, including maintenance.

Got the hard lines and the soft lines all complete, pressure tested for leaks, the check valve and temp sensor installed as well as the pump, heat exchangers, and reservoir. It's about 90% complete.

Big work, but big results in kind.

Just need to terminate the powered connection to the pump and terminate the temp sensor wiring at the bottom part of the diff, install a nice fuse/relay block and send some wiring from the switch I have for the cabin to the back of the car and presto! Even got myself a nice idiot light cut right into the dark part of the gauge clutster to alert whenever the thing activates automatically. And one more thing I'll add to this is that I intend to add extra stabilization to the sections of hardlines that follow the contours of the subframe toward the diff. They're only stabilized at the top end where they meet the bulkhead and not at the bottom where they meet the red QDs. Luckily the QDs have these recessed sections around their circumference and I intend to cut/fabricate some 1mm or 2mm plate steel to act as brake line body clips that will get welded to the subframe and nicely capture those parts of the hardline sections. So they shouldn't move or flex at all.
 

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